Husky 357XP and Stihl MS361?

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So I take it that it's safe to say the 357XP and the MS361 are pretty evenly matched saws then? My uses for one of these saws would be felling and bucking up firewood. I cut mostly 12 to 16 inch cherry and other hardwoods. Once in a while 18 to 20 inches, but not to often. I've used my 029 the last six or so years. I have to think a 357XP or a MS361 would be a definite step up in performance over my 029 right? I'm just kind of thinking out loud here. Thanks again!
 
Can't lose

I have run both of those saws enough to say that you can't go wrong with either one. You may have to flip a coin. I will add that I prefer changing the chain on the 361.

Good Luck!
 
Hired Gun said:
Ponder this, why not pick up a 359, and have it woods ported. You will be out similar money or slightly less and have a saw that will walk all over the 2 stock ones you mentioned. I cut a Tri-axle load of firewood with mine yesterday. That saw gives me a woody! :rockn: Just my 32.5 cents, Happy T-day!


Good advice here worth giving some serious thought to!!!
 
SawTroll said:
I believe so - I am talking about birch, and the twisted and knotted pieces + Y-crotches, that is allmost unsplittable with an axe or maul....:cheers:
I believe that is due to the slow growth rate, causing tight rings.
Climate induced.
 
rahtreelimbs said:
Good advice here worth giving some serious thought to!!!
Yes,There is alot of threads talking about the inhanced gains you get when you mode a 359.
Most end up saying more gains then the 357
 
rahtreelimbs said:
Good advice here worth giving some serious thought to!!!

The part about the modded 359 as an option to the 361/357 or the part about the "woody"??:popcorn:
 
litefoot said:
The part about the modded 359 as an option to the 361/357 or the part about the "woody"??:popcorn:
Hope he ment the 359, I think I gave him a rep point for that.:eek:
 
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359's can be found in the low $300 range easily if you watch. I have picked up 2 new ones for less than $350 each.
 
I believe so - I am talking about birch, and the twisted and knotted pieces + Y-crotches, that is allmost unsplittable with an axe or maul....
Troll, thats funny. 90% of the ripping I do is on Yellow Birch because the grain is so nasty and twisted that it makes splitting, even with a splitter a mess..

I think most would disagree with your oppinion on the relative ease of changing chains on a outboard vs.inboard clutch. Not that chnaging a chain and sprocket has to be done often....of course there are those guys that take their chains to the shop to be ground.
 
bwalker said:
Troll, thats funny. 90% of the ripping I do is on Yellow Birch because the grain is so nasty and twisted that it makes splitting, even with a splitter a mess..
....


I do recognice that description.....;)

...but luckily most of our birches aren't quite like that...:yoyo: :yoyo:
 
Lakeside53 said:
you all know what I like... and as for outboard clutches.... :angry:

That's funny Andy. I never really minded the outboard clutch on my Homie 150 with a 16 inch bar. Trying to load a 42" b/c on my 3120 takes 4 hands a a rodeo clown. Easily 2-3 times longer than putting the same b/c combo on the 066. Outside of that and the bar adjust tab being on the cover, I like the saw itself. Then there is the front chain tensioner. Okay, 3 things I don't like. But once I'm past that, I'm loving the 3120. Power corrupts.

Mark
 
bwalker said:
... I think most would disagree with your oppinion on the relative ease of changing chains on a outboard vs.inboard clutch. Not that chnaging a chain and sprocket has to be done often....of course there are those guys that take their chains to the shop to be ground.
As I said, I allways listen to you, but we obviously disagree on more than one thing here.....:D :D

For me, changing chain on the 353 is just as fast and easy as on the 361, with 15" bars on both - it is just a question of getting used to how to do it.

The small Huskys have an overcrowded space under the clutch cover, which traps the long curlies from sideways ripping pretty good, and bring the chain to a stop......:bang:

Of course a long bar, and some space between the wood and the saw will help to a degree, but I don't need to use that saw for the ripping, so I have not bought one.
 
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i never understood why ppl find it so hard to change chain to saw with outboard clutch, it only takes the same time on both.. just matter of technique...

I myself put the chain on sprocket then lift the bar out of hole, line up chain and bar rails and snap it back in and screw the cover on....
 
I've looked at the 359 a few times. "ON PAPER" the 359 doesn't seem much better then my 029...................again "ON PAPER"! I've never ran a 359 though so I don't know. I don't want to buy a saw then modify it, especially the muffler, I don't want the added noise. I don't have a problem changing the cat muffler to a non cat muffler and adjusting the carburetor accordingly. This is why I asked about the 357XP and MS361. They make a little more power from the get go then the 359.
 
NYH1 said:
I've looked at the 359 a few times. "ON PAPER" the 359 doesn't seem much better then my 029...................again "ON PAPER"! I've never ran a 359 though so I don't know. I don't want to buy a saw then modify it, especially the muffler, I don't want the added noise. I don't have a problem changing the cat muffler to a non cat muffler and adjusting the carburetor accordingly. This is why I asked about the 357XP and MS361. They make a little more power from the get go then the 359.


Your choice!!!


If you don't want to go modded then go with whatever saw feels best to you and has the better dealer support in your area!!!

I know that modding the muffler adds a louder exhaust note..........BUT........all current saws benefit from this mod!!!
 
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Troll, Just had a thought. Could your ripping issues be because of the chain your using? I know your using .325 oregon chain. When using 3/8 my 346 will rip just as good as my MS260.
 

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