NYH1
Tacticle Chainsaw Operator.
Right, but how much better is a 359 then an 029 from a performance stand point? Thanks!bwalker said:All of the saws discussed in this thread are better than a 029.
Husky 357XP and Stihl MS361?
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NYH1 said:
That I can't tell you.
The 359 has a jug that is separate from the case. The 029 has the jug and case all in one. Just something to think about for doing any major maintenance down the road!
Night and day.:biggrinbounce2:
NYH1
Tacticle Chainsaw Operator.
Two problems with added noise.rahtreelimbs said:
One- isn't that big of a deal because I wear ear muffs and sometimes ear plugs to, but I get migraine head aches. Noise is one thing that really gets to me. Even when I go shooting I have to be careful.
Two- Sometimes I cut wood in my back yard. I live in the city. My lot is 40 feet wide and 120 feet deep with the house in front 1/3 of my lot. My neighbors are right next to me and behind me. They never complain and I want to keep it that way. I have really good neighbors! Husky has the noise on the 357XP and 359 listed on their web site as being the same. If that's true I'd get the better performing saw to start with.
Hard Knocks
ArboristSite Operative
The air filtration of the 357XP makes up for any inconvenience of the outboard clutch. Both saws have their pros and cons. It comes down to what saw feels better in your hands.
NYH1
Tacticle Chainsaw Operator.
Thanks guys! 
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
SawTroll said:As I said, I allways listen to you, but we obviously disagree on more than one thing here.....
The small Huskys have an overcrowded space under the clutch cover, which traps the long curlies from sideways ripping pretty good, and bring the chain to a stop......:bang:
Of course a long bar, and some space between the wood and the saw will help to a degree, but I don't need to use that saw for the ripping, so I have not bought one.
I agree that small (most actually) huskies are not as quite good at clearing sidegrain noodles as stihls in general (more open under sprocket cover).
In terms of a longer bar helping with noodles due to some space between the wood and saw: even though that seems intuitive, I find it is not true. As a woodturner, I spend ALOT of time and effort cutting side grain when I rough cut big blanks, and each saw has a slightly different technique to clear the noodles but the longer distance actually can decrease the control over the shavings. And if the saw has a chaincatcher, that distance makes the shavings plug much worse in that area- better to have the shavings forced past that restriction.
As an example of the clearance issue, when I bought my 7900 I was dismayed to see the lack of chip clearance especially at the tail side of the sprocket. Dolmar really optimized it for side grain small chips. And at first I was getting terrible plugging with noodles up under the cover that actually would stop the saw and would not clear themselves-not a problem that have had for years with my other saws (both huskies and stihls). But with a little practice I came up with slightly modified technique that has the Dolmar clearing noodles quite well even with a 28 inch bar buried in a block side grain. Mostly all about the angle of the saw relative to the wood grain and the feed rate. Sometimes a difference of only 2 or 3 degrees makes all the difference between shavings plugging under the cover or forcing their way through the congestion.. Need a level enough cut to have high efficiency in severing the connection between wood "tubes" (like cutting a dado with a hand plane or chisel along the grain) while having just enough angle (I use tip downward angle generally to have the saw self feed) to break up the length of the shavings just enough to clear all the while maintaining the high velocity chip flow that forces the noodles to the back and down under the cover. Details depend on the saw and wood. I can usually cut mountains of noodles with only one or two quick plugs that I can clear my simply pulling the bunching out with my hand.
I see alot of cutters that haven't done side grain cutting much rocking the saw back and forth and that is not a good way to do it for various reasons - they do it because it works as a brute force last resort. Or they use a lot of angle which can work okay but cuts too slow if you have a lot to do. As woodturners we really are forced to work on this technique because over half of our time cutting is side grained noodles. On a busy day I have generated well over 500 gallons of noodles.
Just thought I'd throw this out because when I see even veteran firewood cutters go to half a round for example, I usually see them using really inefficient techniques and making much too much work of it. Naturally with enough power technique is not as critical, though still important with long cuts where each noodle is over a foot long (or more). Like when I have my 42 inch bar buried in side grain- power alone will not keep the heavy stream of shavings running clear.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
bwalker said:
Interesting thought, but it won't create
better chip flow trough that overcrowded sprocket area, I believe.
Maybe you are doing something that I have not thought of, but this has been discussed several times, and I can not see what it could be.....
I am ripping at just a slight angle from along the log - across the grain is just too slow, and the MS361 does it along them like a champ - so why bother with the small Husky.....
SawTroll said:I was talking about ripping the wood pieces from the side, making those long curly fries - they clog up really fast under the clutch cover of my 353, it is close to useless for that.....
On the 361 they just fly right trough, no problems at all...:biggrinbounce2:
I hope the 372 is the same way as the 361, but it isn't quite as "clean" under the clutch cover as the 361, thanks to the cover mounted chain tensioner (no surprice, though - I knew about it).
No worries on the 372 and curly fries
If anything it's where the fries exit the clutch cover that's the bottleneck. http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7738&d=1066692700 warning BIG pic here
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Dave you making curly fries for Arby's.
..
trimmmed said:They look tasty, eh? lol
Cherry's good too!
Darn Husky got stuck in the log... Now Sawtroll is going to Freak out..Every time he cuts with his 372 will get stuck in log..
..
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
trimmmed said:They look tasty, eh? lol
Cherry's good too!
Poor man's splitter, eh? LOL. Been there and done that. ELM is a beotch any way you look at it. I "split" 2 1/2 cord like that last year. Of coarse to my defense, it started out 48" in diameter----had to be able to move the pieces. lol. Just went a little to far, until they were good firewood size. lol.
Curly fries make good fire starters too!
SawTroll
Information Collector
I didn't have any worries about that one at all, after I took the cover off and looked.trimmmed said:No worries on the 372 and curly fries
The cluch area is pretty "clean", despite the cover mounted chain tensioner....
.....nothing like the smaller Huskies at all! :greenchainsaw:
Btw, those pics should be posted in the "Queen" tread as well.....
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SawTroll
Information Collector
04ultra said:Darn Husky got stuck in the log... Now Sawtroll is going to Freak out..Every time he cuts with his 372 will get stuck in log..
..
You evil man....
:sword: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
Hired Gun
ArboristSite Operative
Where you been? Could have used some 359 support a few pages back...
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
trimmmed said:They look tasty, eh? lol
Cherry's good too!
As soon as the shavings plug below and get thrown out the top of the bar like this pic friction and flow inefficiencies have begun. Can work for a while, but I try to do what I can to have the shavings continue to find their way out the bottom.
When I'm out of town on site and I need to block out a trailer load of big blocks (about 5000#) good technique is key for me to get done in time to get home the same day.
I guess I'm beating the dead horse once last time, but I think many cutters don't realize how much difference technique makes here, and simply do the same thing over and over. When I am cutting even with long term arborists often they will ask me how I am making it so much less work than them.
I wanted to insert the beating the horse graphic here (would have been my first graphic) but I guess I don't have enough points or rep to have that option. So consider the beating the dead horse posted here anyway....
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B_Turner said:
And what is it you would do? Btw there are many inefficiencies at work here
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B_Turner said:
And what is your technique?
B_Turner said:
And again, what's your secret?
B_Turner said:
Enough points? Rep?? Ha, what are you talkin about? It's a simple matter to find the horse beating smiley
The word "more" figures into it heavily :deadhorse: If you stihl can't find it, try typing this ;deadhorse; but change the semi-colons to colons.Btw, do you know what I was doing in that pic? Do you do that much, yourself?
