I want to buy a *REALLY* good chain saw. Suggestions?

[MrGriz]

dude you hit the nail on the head alll these people buying pro saws to cut fire wood twice a year why???????????? sharpening and sharp is the key, why buy a pro saw if you cant sharpen it i bet i could make the bottom of the range stihl out cut half the people running 361's on recomendation just becouse i can sharpen and keep a saw sharp......

Doesn't that mean that running a sharp chain and keeping it sharp is just as important on a homeowner saw as well as a pro saw? My point is that all else being equal, the average guy is still farther ahead owning a pro saw if he's willing to shell out the extra bucks for it.

I may not get the same performance that the pros would get out of my 5100s, but in the long run it will still last me longer than a wild thing. I also think that it's easier to speed up the learning curve and get better results with better qulaity tools, rather than trying to learn on a poor quality alternative. Even a pro can only get so much out of a poor quality tool.

I try to buy good quality tools when I can, because they last longer and in many cases are easier to use than the cheap ones. I may not get pro results from them, but I still beleive that I'm farther ahead buying quality.

Can't we all just get along Or, at least all gang up on the same side....

 

[SawTroll]

MSH, I posted this in the other thread you started, but I'll repeat it here.

I recently got my Dolmar 5100s and I love it. It sounds like a great choice for the type of cutting you will be doing. If the $$$ was more even, I probably would have an MS361 in the garage, but for the difference in price I couldn't pass on the 5100s.

That being said, it sounds like dealer support is going to be more of an issue for you than price. Dolmar dealers can be scarce. If there's a good Stihl dealer in your neck of the woods, I would stick with Stihl. The 361 may be a bit more saw than you need, but if you hang out here for a while you'll see that "need" is a relative term.

You may also want to do a search and find the thread regarding Computeruser's three saw plan. Be careful though, the three saw plan has been reported to lead to the six saw plan, nine saw plan and maybe even put a couple of people into 12 step programs.

Welcome; they've tested the thickness of your skin a bit already and you're doing well. If you're going to stick around you may want to throw on some PPE (the helmet especially).

You sure are on the right track!!!! :chainsawguy: :rockn: :rockn:

 

[romeo]

Maybe he should build a hotsaw, Or the V8 chainsaw on youtube.

Best idea I have heard all day.

 

[matty f]

hmmmmmmmmm maybe we can all get along i just get p1ssed when all you home owners come in and buy all the 361's and i have to buy a 357xp instead! jokin id rather have the 357 any ways but any saw is good really depending on make (you dont have to buy the most expensive)and how you look after it and yes your right if you can afford the best then why not! but i look at it like a rancher or 29 would suit most people if your gonna use it twice a year evan a slightly dull pro saw is gonna make it worthless if you have it sharpened by the shop on a grinder or use only new chains you still aint gonna get the best out of it.
I buy cheap spanners wrenches ect i hardly use them and i know not much at all about moter mechanics to use them properly any way if i was to buy all the best at tripple the price it would be kinda stupid and anal dont you think?
any ways as stated by sup[er hunky he does not know how to sharpen a saw so if he braught an ms 88 it would not make a difference.

 

[weatherby guy]

why????????what a waste of money and well its not like a snap on spanner is it!! that you cant blunt.blunt a saw its usless and you might as well not evan bother..i dont let my learner ground guys use pro saws they get the old 024 and husky 40 they aint touchin the others as they will fu9k there chains up in a second no matter how many times they are shown how to use and there attempts at sharpening!!! hahaha........

Matty, the homeowner crowd thanks you for your financial advice.

Hey Romeo, what kind of 'cost justification' do you need to buy a big saw (independent of whether or not you make a dime using it)???? No need to answer....haha

 

[matty f]

Matty, the homeowner crowd thanks you for your financial advice.

no worries dude and just think with the extra pennies you have saved
you can all invest some new chains or a chain grinder!:jester:

 

[MrGriz]

if your gonna use it twice a year evan a slightly dull pro saw is gonna make it worthless if you have it sharpened by the shop on a grinder or use only new chains you still aint gonna get the best out of it.
any ways as stated by sup[er hunky he does not know how to sharpen a saw so if he braught an ms 88 it would not make a difference.

No doubt, but you might as well drop the dime on the better saw and then learn how to use it. I don't have a problem with him saying that he doesn't know how to sharpen a chain, as long as he plans to learn. Everyone has to start somewhere.

 

[redprospector]

Matty, the homeowner crowd thanks you for your financial advice.

Hey Romeo, what kind of 'cost justification' do you need to buy a big saw (independent of whether or not you make a dime using it)???? No need to answer....haha

Hahaha. There is no justification for most big saws. It's kinda like buying a 4x4 truck, putting a lift kit, and monster tires on it. There is no justification, it just makes you feel good.

Andy

 

[matty f]

No doubt, but you might as well drop the dime on the better saw and then learn how to use it. I don't have a problem with him saying that he doesn't know how to sharpen a chain, as long as he plans to learn. Everyone has to start somewhere.

shame he didnt learn on the 021 he owns then ...........

 

[Mr_Super-hunky]

You know whats funny, Many members here have absolutely NO problems taking pot shots at a brand new member who just comes to ask some advice from (supposedly) more knowledgable members, but when the new guy stands his ground and slings a bit of mud back, most of the big boys get all offended and start firing off even more slams and cheap shots.

Go ahead and send my mail under the bridge!, replace my avatar with a rat figure, and give me the dreaded red dot of a member rating (or better yet....pink!), but don't come crying to me come christmas time when that autographed 8x10 scented glossy of yours truly does'nt show up!.

Now, back to chain saw selections for a brief moment (if thats even possible!).

So far, amongst the thick mud lies some pretty good information. Not knowing much about saws other than using my little 021 (a lot), I have learned the following:

1). Compatibility.

Many people have said to choose the right saw for the job. Big rounds need s big saw. Pruning trees needs a little (and lighter ) saw. Felling trees needs a big and powerful saw etc.

While it would be nice to have a "universal" saw, it would end up being too big and heavy for the trimming and pruning, and probably not big enough for the big stuff. That kind of reminds me of an enduro motorcycle...aka *bastard*!. It's knobby tires and dirt bike design make it handle like crap on the road, and its heavier weight, sluggish handling and intermediate suspension make it not so great in the dirt; so basically, it can do everything...poorly!!. This is not what I want.

Since I already have the light weight/smaller Stihl 021, it seems that I have that end of the spectrum coverd. What I need now is something to handle felling dead standing trees (they are not too big) and fallen logs on the ground. Basically, a very capable firewood saw.

Since the trees around here do not get to large around (due to the nearly 8000 elevation), I probably don't need the 4-foot giant sequoia..sp? bar like my good friend Rod has. Actually, most of the Ponderosa pines around here don't get much bigger than 12-14'' around max.

We do have some oak trees, but again, they are very small in diam. I will need a saw with as much power as I need but don't want the extra weight of an "overkill" saw. I have very, very bad joints and am not looking for extra strain on them.

2.) Chain selection and sharpening.

For whatever reason, my chains seem to last me a very long time. I try to keep the bar very clean, well oiled, and keep the tip out of the dirt always.

I have been able to cut wood all weekend long on the same chain and even though after 2-3 days of cutting, the saw seems to still cut good.

I just figure after a 2 or 3 day weekend, I will just put on a new chain (only a few minutes) and be done with it. I pay $13 for a brand new home depot chain and only a few bucks for a gallon of universal bar oil (again at the depot).

I am willing to learn how to sharpen my chain, but don't know the best way to do it. As I've said before, I do have the little round file and have sharpened the chain a few times using it but without great results. Is there a preferred method to chain sharpening? or is that considered a "baiting" question asked only by trolls?. I must be a troll you know as thats what everyone here calls me. Thats okay, I don't mind. It's nice and cool under the bridge this time of year!.

Anyway, it seems that so far, the vast majority of serious responses are pointing me towards the Stihl ms361 or the Husky 372 xp. While I agree that some occasional homeowners have no business using pro grade tools, I will be using this saw very often.

We plan on heating a 4000 sf home with wood and don't have much more to offer than crappy pine and aspen. I may be going through 2-3 times more wood than if I were burning oak but pine is all we have.

I am not sure if the Stihl ms 361 is "overkill" or not. I just don't know. I have no problem with the power, I just am not wanting extra weight; especially if the weight is due to power that I am not using.

I fully agree with everyone who suggested I learn to sharpen my chains. As I've said before, they always have been sharp, but I would still like to learn how to properly sharpen one anyway as sooner or later I'm sure I will hit rocks, dirt, whatever. Maybe the local saw shop will show me if I ask; or maybe they will just laugh at me, call me a troll, and throw mud at me...who knows!, its worth a try!.

Thanks for all the serious responses so far. Even though I have been whipped, beaten, and called names, I am somehow still learning a lot. I guess that makes it all worth it.

 

[PA Plumber]

First of all, let's get this cleared up right away. Do not send me a scented, glossy picture of yourself. (Unless, of course, there is a $100.00 bill in there and by all means send a couple!)

Second, you sure are resilient.

Third, if weight is that big of an issue, Stihl 260 Pro should serve you well. I have an 026 which is now called the 260. It has been a great saw and with a muffler mod, does very well. Stay with a 16" bar.

Fourth, if you have someone around who will sharpen chains for $6.00 a pop or less, buy a few so you'll have some while others are getting sharpened.

 

[rb_in_va]

MSH,
Is your 021 dead? If it still runs you can use it for small stuff. Then get a MS260 or 361. You don't need a large saw for felling 12" pines. You could actually get away with something smaller than a 361 for your current needs. But as your skill improves you will "find" larger wood to cut.

 

[MAG58]

346XP - Best saw made to date for this type of work.

Well since you can't get Jonsered 2147 in the US, I will say find a dealer you like and get a Husqvarna 346xp whit a short bar.
Learn how to sharpen your chain and always keep it sharp. :rockn:

 

[sperho]

Sharp chain. If you are in Stihl country: MS260 Pro. If you are in Husky country: 346XP. If you have both dealers, go pick up those 2 saws and the next pro model up (bigger) from them. MS361 will be the next Stihl and others can chime in on the Husky model. Pick the one that feels best in your hands and that doesn't weigh more than you want it to weigh and be done with it. Any of the four saws will do what you want it to do, no sweat. Sharp chain. For the wood you're describing, I wouldn't hesitate to run a 20" bar on either. Save your back a little. Just because you have a 20" bar doesn't mean you'll be completely burying in hardwood more often than not. Sharp chain.

Now, stop fretting go put your hands on some saws. Sharp chain.

Here's a 22" diameter at breast height, 85' tall poplar (a soft hardwood) that I dropped, bucked, and limbed this past weekend in a few hours. My MS260 Pro did just fine with my sharp chain. In the full bar cuts, I just didn't lean on it much, I let the chain do the work. I left the stump high to allow some leverage for the backhoe that's arriving to start the grade work for my new shop. Sharp chain.

Did I mention that you should always cut with a sharp chain?

Sharp chain.

 

[geofore]

more power saw

I noticed you have mistakenly post your dating profile here on the site for chainsaw enthusiasts but since you asked about chainsaws I'll overlook the oversite on your part. Get the 346xp or a dolmar 5100, buy better chain for it. A sharp chain does make more of a difference than you might think. I notice a difference in the chain after one tree/ tank of gas and touch up the chain with a few quick strokes of the file by hand. Find someone near you to show you how to sharpen the chains by hand and you be way ahead of the game to getting better preformance from your saws. All the power in the world is not going to overcome a dull chain the same as hyping your profile here isn't going to get you many dates.

 

[ShoerFast]

Since I already have the light weight/smaller Stihl 021, it seems that I have that end of the spectrum coverd. What I need now is something to handle felling dead standing trees (they are not too big) and fallen logs on the ground. Basically, a very capable firewood saw.

Since the trees around here do not get to large around (due to the nearly 8000 elevation), I probably don't need the 4-foot giant sequoia..sp? bar like my good friend Rod has. Actually, most of the Ponderosa pines around here don't get much bigger than 12-14'' around max.

We do have some oak trees, but again, they are very small in diam. I will need a saw with as much power as I need but don't want the extra weight of an "overkill" saw. I have very, very bad joints and am not looking for extra strain on them.



I am not sure if the Stihl ms 361 is "overkill" or not. I just don't know. I have no problem with the power, I just am not wanting extra weight; especially if the weight is due to power that I am not using.

Again, the wight of the 361 would not be an overkill, but would compliment the 021, with a 16" bar a 361 is a very handy saw. Picking up a 361 after looking at something like an MS-290/310/390 class saw, would show you how close they are, the 361 just has a ton more "zip"


The MS-250 / 260 / 270 /280 is not a very big step up from the 021, if your going after a bigger saw, make it a "bigger" saw, again, just .02 cents worth, but I am very happy with my 361 for my smaller saw as used for firewood cutting!

I cut some at the 6000' mark, but a lot more at the 9500' mark, and the 361 dose not seem to fade on me at altitude like my MS-310 did and my MS-660 dose, I just don't notice the altitude as much on the engines performance.

I am willing to learn how to sharpen my chain, but don't know the best way to do it. As I've said before, I do have the little round file and have sharpened the chain a few times using it but without great results. Is there a preferred method to chain sharpening? or is that considered a "baiting" question asked only by trolls?. I must be a troll you know as thats what everyone here calls me. Thats okay, I don't mind. It's nice and cool under the bridge this time of year!.

I fully agree with everyone who suggested I learn to sharpen my chains. As I've said before, they always have been sharp, but I would still like to learn how to properly sharpen one anyway as sooner or later I'm sure I will hit rocks, dirt, whatever. Maybe the local saw shop will show me if I ask; or maybe they will just laugh at me, call me a troll, and throw mud at me...who knows!, its worth a try!.

Thanks for all the serious responses so far. Even though I have been whipped, beaten, and called names, I am somehow still learning a lot. I guess that makes it all worth it.

Sharpening your own chain is all part of the satisfaction of operator, not sure that would make sense to many that don't sharpen there own. Most here would have it no other way.

More threads then you can shack a stick at if you do a search, or post some pictures of your hand-filed chain the first few times, the better the pictures, the better the advice.

 

[musch]

Those are some mighty nice pics, but I would be bored to tears cutting that tree with a 260.
JMHO.
:chainsawguy:

 

[ShoerFast]

Those are some mighty nice pics, but I would be bored to tears cutting that tree with a 260.
JMHO.
:chainsawguy:

A Popular with a soft center cuts fairly fast with a Wild-thinngy, there cut for pulp-wood.

 

[Mr_Super-hunky]

Well it looks like I may be down to two saws; the Stihl ms361 or the Husky 357xp.

I would like to know the differences between them as opposed to asking "which one is better" as a troll war will surely result!.

Without intending or wanting to start the Ford vs Chevy thing, is it okay to ask what the *differences* are between the saws?. So far, from what I have read, it seems some of the differences are Husky has an outboard clutch (which I don't know if thats a positive or negative), and stihl seems to be around $100 more.

Others have said that Husky may have a little better anti vibe, higher rpm (but lower torque) and that they are heavier than they claim to be.

You see, I'm really not a troll, I just look like one...(they are extremely good looking you know!)!

 

[musch]

Well it looks like I may be down to two saws; the Stihl ms361 or the Husky 357xp.

Others have said that Husky may have a little better anti vibe, higher rpm (but lower torque) and that they are heavier than they claim to be.

You see, I'm really not a troll, I just look like one...(they are extremely good looking you know!)!

They are just about equal. I don't know if anyone can honestly say which is better. You WILL get plenty of opinion though.
I have a 357xp.
I would be happy to have a 361.

I picked the Husky because it was less expensive, same h.p., great anti vibe, and great air filtration. I had good experiences already with the 570 and the 346xp.

opcorn: