jonsered parts needed for a 52 need tips where to find these their vintage

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Technically if it s separated you gave no field. IE, no electricity unless it's jumping. That can be repaired, your only gonna loose one wrap on that coil. But you gotta be careful. That wire is special enamel coated wire. The coating is super thin. 2 ways to repair it. You can take out bolts and it pops out of there. Unlike my 80 which is riveted in.
 
Working it like that will cause resistance, which means heat. You 'll end up cooking it. Check it from one side to the other with a multimeter. See if you have continuity.
 
Can be repaired by taking the break and using copper shim stock under it and solder back together Or solder to copper sheet. Or remove the one wrap. And solder to the condenser side in original spot.
 
Working it like that will cause resistance, which means heat. You 'll end up cooking it. Check it from one side to the other with a multimeter. See if you have continuity.
repair it holy mother of god doesnt look easy i puller the coil ,trying to find one is near impossible ,im going to let a buddy look it over and see what he thinks about a repair i really have zero faith left in that fix though way to brittle wires ive never did one thats for sure but maybe my buddy has
 
well right back in there and this one going to have cob webs on it before i get done all the **** now is super hard to find
 
By the way here's the electronic module that replaces points and condenser. They are junk! They take a different coil and a different flywheel1650327695573507252229.jpg1650327658681318203398.jpg1650327658681318203398.jpg
 
sounds worse than it is, fine tip soldering iron, harbor freight lighted magnifier. Just gotta make sure everything gets insulated. I brushed epoxy on the bare smashed wires on my 80. but they were still connected(barely).
 
sounds worse than it is, fine tip soldering iron, harbor freight lighted magnifier. Just gotta make sure everything gets insulated. I brushed epoxy on the bare smashed wires on my 80. but they were still connected(barely).
well mine points and old school is junk now too mine a broken clean off and its super tight hard to get any slack in order to get any under them or if you solder them it seem like a train wreck to me
 
Time and Patience. Easy for me to say I ve been retired for a year. That's why I'm getting these 2 saws up to snuff. Both given to me by different people. And our weather here turned to **** today also. Sleet, snow, rain, cold. It blows, getting my boat outta storage friday. Hope it doesn't freeze again, or I'll be fixing that all summer!
 
Time and Patience. Easy for me to say I ve been retired for a year. That's why I'm getting these 2 saws up to snuff. Both given to me by different people. And our weather here turned to **** today also. Sleet, snow, rain, cold. It blows, getting my boat outta storage friday. Hope it doesn't freeze again, or I'll be fixing that all summer!
so if you can lay the wire down and solder it does it matter if the Soder sticks to the rest of the copper ? or what ,?
 
so if you can lay the wire down and solder it does it matter if the Soder sticks to the rest of the copper ? or what ,?
Technically yes. thats why you should have a piece of copper or stainless shim stock. The solder will melt the enamel underneath. And combine the two. which means depending on where it melts you will lose maybe a complete row of wrapped wire or you may just lose a couple wraps. The shim stock i have is like .005 I also have a roll of very thin copper tape its probably .002
 
If it only combines the wire next to it that's no big deal you lose one wrap. If it combines the wire below I believe you'll lose an entire row. Will that hurt it? I don't know! That little coil puts out more juice than those points can handle. That's why the condenser is there without it the points would fry quickly. It stores the excess that would otherwise burn up your points, works kinda like a regulator
 
I've never seen a complete coil, condenser, points set for that saw for sale. complete saws yes but not the ignition set. I just picked up my 52 off ebay a couple of weeks ago, to change my 52E over to conventional ignition. And I got lucky it was all there and still functioned. That coil can also be completely rewound. How much would that cost? I don't know. But places will do it. Had a starter generator rewound on my 65 cub cadet a while back it was $100. And thats alot of wire in there
 
I've never seen a complete coil, condenser, points set for that saw for sale. complete saws yes but not the ignition set. I just picked up my 52 off ebay a couple of weeks ago, to change my 52E over to conventional ignition. And I got lucky it was all there and still functioned. That coil can also be completely rewound. How much would that cost? I don't know. But places will do it. Had a starter generator rewound on my 65 cub cadet a while back it was $100. And thats alot of wire in there
hey got a used good condenser and internal coil today from my secret buddy's stash and put the saw back together and nothing im like wtf pull it all apart and rest everything but tighten up the point gap advance it slightly and bam good blue spark will run tomorrow in the wood supposed to get a snow storm of epic dump too geezus ,never seen this buddy's stash and man Hes got some red everywhere big ones little one and in-between might go back and get a big cc from him
 
If it only combines the wire next to it that's no big deal you lose one wrap. If it combines the wire below I believe you'll lose an entire row. Will that hurt it? I don't know! That little coil puts out more juice than those points can handle. That's why the condenser is there without it the points would fry quickly. It stores the excess that would otherwise burn up your points, works kinda like a regulator
oh yeah could be a points issue but for sure the condenser was bad ,if the point are bad you could see them right they looked good ran a strip of 300 sand paper thru them before setting them ,i happened to get a set a point and a plate today with the condenser i used with it so if these point go bad i can use those ,at least now it ran will see how long soon
 
yeah another thing my friend said fixing the internal coil u would have to rewrap because soldering would short it out be way to had impossible even ,I'm so happy i went over there today to see what he had ,ive got ideas galore now ,if its snowing hard in the morning Ill give him a call and see if i can get a big cc from him.. why did the 52e suck so bad what went bad ?
By the way here's the electronic module that replaces points and condenser. They are junk! They take a different coil and a different flywheelView attachment 982287View attachment 982285View attachment 982285
 
yeah another thing my friend said fixing the internal coil u would have to rewrap because soldering would short it out be way to had impossible even ,I'm so happy i went over there today to see what he had ,ive got ideas galore now ,if its snowing hard in the morning Ill give him a call and see if i can get a big cc from him.. why did the 52e suck so bad what went bad ?
why do they suck so bad what fails on those 52 e
 
No you can fix the coils I've seen it done. The 52 module (that picture I sent you) goes out. My neighbor gave this one to me was darn near spotless. He bought it for $15 at a yard sale, had a brand new bar and chain on it and that's all he wanted from it, ran like a top. He lent it to a friend and it stopped running. The 80 was given to me from my other neighbor was sitting in garage collecting dust. It is actually a 90. Has a decompression valve and a 54mm piston and cylinder.
 
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