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Yes Gord404,
I wrestled with wanting a 390/395 Husky. Thing is, my 372 XP and Pioneer Poulan Pro 455 do well on big stuff, and I try to avoid the really monster tree's.
Additionally, the 390 is almost the same price and weight as the 395. Having a harder and harder time justifying spending money on those big saws... and I can find ways to justify buying a lot of things, but this is a tuffy.
I'd really like to just find an affordable 390/395 that is burned up, straight gassed, and rebuild it.


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I own both a 390xp and 394xp. The 390xp is much more nimble for daily use, the 394/5xp feels like a brick in your hands and physically wears you out much faster. Wider and heavier. I actually rarely use it other then mill duty. The 390xp goes along as my back up or primary depending on expected wood size nearly every time out. More then once I've had an issue with the other saw and had to cut with it all day.
 
I used 2100’s for decades, now we’re using a 385 xp no complaints. I been thinking about adding a 288 Xp next.
 
I have two 070 kit saws which I have not pampered. My first one was over five years ago which has at least a hundred cords on it. If it lasts another hundred cords which it seems like it will then it has done every thing a saw could do. I am sure that major manufactures will perform at least as well. Thanks
 
I don’t like buying the first new model without reviews on it.

I purchased a new in the crate ‘99 Husqvarna te610e dual sport. First the shifter drum had problems, then the oil pump rotated and shut off oil to the head, cam. That taught me a lesson.

Our sister company in japan dictated to us call backs was unacceptable. They forced us to do more life testing on new products.
We had the most modern lab for testing electronic components in the country. Other companies sent there products to us for testing, quality was number 1.
 
I own both a 390xp and 394xp. The 390xp is much more nimble for daily use, the 394/5xp feels like a brick in your hands and physically wears you out much faster. Wider and heavier. I actually rarely use it other then mill duty. The 390xp goes along as my back up or primary depending on expected wood size nearly every time out. More then once I've had an issue with the other saw and had to cut with it all day.
Yep Sean,
A friend brought over his 395 today for me to handle, same as the 395 I handled at the dealer several times. Sadly, it's just too heavy for regular use... for me anyway.
I immediately started thinking more seriously about the 390. My impressions of the 390 I handled about 2 years ago mirror your impressions.

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My rules for saw longevity:
1) Do not loan it out to anyone.
2) Buy a $20 Poulan Wild Thing to loan to people.
3) Run full synthetic Amsoil.
4) Run high octane, non-ethanol gas in it.
5) Don't keep pre-mix fuel sitting around for more than 2 weeks... and store in metal can... and not in 150 degree tool shed.
6) Always shake the fuel can, and even shake the saw, if it has gas in the tank, to mix the oil/fuel before starting the saw.
7) Put small amount of Stabil in fuel immediately after purchase.
8) Set carb screws rich (counter-clockwise).
9) Be mindful of where the saw is at all times, when on or off the job.
10) Store it in a hardcase with guide bar sheath/scabbard.
11) When using the saw, ask yourself: "Is what I'm about to do, safe?"

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Awesome information sir .
 
I used 2100’s for decades, now we’re using a 385 xp no complaints. I been thinking about adding a 288 Xp next.
I have a 288 XP . Incomplete , needing cylinder , piston , rings and both the pull start cover and the chain brake cover. I believe that will be the next saw I put together as well . Thanks for helping me make that decision .
 
My rules for saw longevity:
1) Do not loan it out to anyone.
2) Buy a $20 Poulan Wild Thing to loan to people.
3) Run full synthetic Amsoil.
4) Run high octane, non-ethanol gas in it.
5) Don't keep pre-mix fuel sitting around for more than 2 weeks... and store in metal can... and not in 150 degree tool shed.
6) Always shake the fuel can, and even shake the saw, if it has gas in the tank, to mix the oil/fuel before starting the saw.
7) Put small amount of Stabil in fuel immediately after purchase.
8) Set carb screws rich (counter-clockwise).
9) Be mindful of where the saw is at all times, when on or off the job.
10) Store it in a hardcase with guide bar sheath/scabbard.
11) When using the saw, ask yourself: "Is what I'm about to do, safe?"

.
Number 6 is unnecessary, once the mixture has been mixed once, as it should form a true solution, and will not separate. If it does not form a solution, you have a real problem.
 
Wait does life span take into account caders resurecting 30yr old 392xp's instead of using modern lazer tech
 
I go to the municipal airport and buy 100 octane aviation fuel . No additives or preservative :)
Except lead. 100 LL(low lead) aviation fuel has roughly the same lead in it as the old regular leaded gasoline sold before unleaded became a requirement.

It's definitely good fuel from your engine's standpoint, but I'd be leery of running it regularly and breathing the exhaust.
 
Except lead. 100 LL(low lead) aviation fuel has roughly the same lead in it as the old regular leaded gasoline sold before unleaded became a requirement.

It's definitely good fuel from your engine's standpoint, but I'd be leery of running it regularly and breathing the exhaust.
100LL actually has more lead than the old leaded premium pump gas. It's also has a distillation curve optimized for aircraft engines and two cycles run kind of lazy on it.
 
If you’re feeling frisky and strong, NOS 660’s pop up now and again. We have had ours over a decade and only ever had to do basic maintenance. No tree guy but it’s cut 10+ cords every year.

Among Stihl professional saws, I think the 066 had the very worst reputation for burning up. I'm not sure the 660's were much better.
 

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