Makita 4030a 16" Electric Chainsaw clutch slipping

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Philbert said:
These are great saws. I bought 2 (one for a friend) of the earlier model used from HD rental locations, and they have worked well for me. Always a bit of a crap shoot when you buy used. If mine 'died' I would not hesitate to buy a new (not used) one, or the equivalent Dolmar model.

MAKITA Industrial Power Tools - Tool Details - UC4030A

DOLMAR - ES-173 A

My saw (UC 4000) has a spring loaded, nylon gear behind the clutch drum that I do not see on your parts diagram. This gear was broken on one rental saw that I passed on.

Philbert
Click to expand...
Glad they are said to be good saws, I have read that before.
Yeah, hopefully when I get that drum/Gear assby, I should be in good shape.
Thanks,
Tony
 
Philbert said:
For what it is worth, I just checked with a local A.S. member who is a Dolmar dealer. He quoted me a retail price of around $200 for the equivalent saw in red (ES-173 A).

Philbert
Click to expand...

Thats better yet. (the price) I could have got the green one Yesterday for about $215.00 with free shipping. (President day - 15% code)
Best I have seen otherwise was Amazon. $229.99 & FREE Super Saver Shipping.

Well I called them Back, and was talking to this one guy, He was pretty cool, But then he put the guy on that works on them.
I tried to explain that I knew what I was talking about, and tried to get him to get an OK to ship me the brake drum.
Remember, this is an hour trip each way.
He started acting sort of smart, and told me, "they still had to look at it" "They can't just start shipping parts"
Told me they did not have it in stock, and to bring it in, and leave it, and they would call me when it was done.
I said "Now were up to 3 trips up, and 3 trips back" asked if he had an e mail I could e mail the picture, said They didn't (I don't believe that)
He just kind of made me mad, I have been an auto mechanic for years, and besides, it don't take a rocket scientist to tell the gear was bad.
Said I didn't want to drive up and back 3 times, he said "worse comes to worse, they could swap one off one of the rental ones."
I said OK, if they could do that, I would be up.
Then I got sort of mad, and decided to drive up there tonight, I was just gonna return it, but I was talking to the 1st guy, (The mechanic was gone)
I showed him how it was slipping, and showed him the gear, (We took it apart) He looked at another 4030A they had there, So anyways, he finally
swapped it out with a brake drum off one they had there.
He said it was the best one, It is not perfect, it is starting to show some wear, but it looks pretty good. Might have to buy a drum someday.
And yes, the teeth are supposed to run from the drum solid up to the "washer stack"
Still don't understand why they have that "washer stack" looking configuration on them.
Did not take the time, as it was getting late, to try it tonight, but I am sure it will be OK.

I told him to be sure and show that other guy, and I also told that chainsaw should have never been signed off on, weather rental, or sales or whatever.

BTY, I understand the newer ones are china made now, the older ones were German made.
Anyone know if the new generation china made saw is just as good?
Thanks for all the help.

Oh Yeah, I asked him how many drive links those chains had, (57) and he went and got a new chain, and read it on there.
He gave me the chain too.
 
Last edited:
Glad you got it settled. Hope it solves your problem.

I can't confirm where they are made. I did notice some differences besides the appearance in the IPS's when compared side to side. Can't comment on which is 'better'. When I bought mine used, he threw in a Carlton chain as well as the Tri-Link chain that was on the saw ('000'). For some reason, the OEM Makita chain was 56 drive links, but they were running Carlton bars with 57DL (an Echo set up).

I run mine with a PowerSharp set up and I really like the combo.

Philbert
 
These saws look suspiciously like a Husky. Anybody know if thery're the same?
 
PowerSharp set up
What does that involve?
I see it is a different bar, is it a powersharp chain too? (Chain/Bar Combo) Is that like a "Non" Non Kickback chain?
Is that still 3/8"Pitch, .050 gauge?
I am not sure if that is the stock bar on mine, I would say probably it is.

You should be able to handle a 16" diameter log with these right?
That guy tonight was saying these are for smaller logs. (8"-10")
I say if it has a 16" bar, it should have the power to handle it. 15 A motor IIRC.

Powersharp system at Amazon, So the sharpening system works pretty well?
Looks like you got some nice shavings in the picture.
I am watching the video.
http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-541221-PowerSharp-Starter-16-Inch/dp/B003VS0YAE

How many Sharpening's are you getting out of a chain?
It says 5-15.
What do you have to do once you need a new chain, buy a special replacement chain and that comes with a new sharpener?
 
Last edited:
Why am i wondering if that "washer stack" is a friction disc assembly.
something about the shapes of the parts and their facing each other like they appear to.
Is there a chance that the outer shell (that the brake band grips) is on a hub?
Thus it would be a protective device for the rest of the running gear.
 
sawfun9 said:
These saws look suspiciously like a Husky. Anybody know if thery're the same?
Click to expand...
The Husqvarna/Jonsered electric saws also have an 'in-line' design (like a Sawzall). But I believe that that is just a similarity in appearance/format. I don't think that they share any parts (except may be bars and chains).

mrbreezeet1 said:
PowerSharp set up What does that involve? . . ."Non" Non Kickback chain? Is that still 3/8"Pitch, .050 gauge?

You should be able to handle a 16" diameter log with these right? That guy tonight was saying these are for smaller logs. (8"-10")
I say if it has a 16" bar, it should have the power to handle it.

How many Sharpening's are you getting out of a chain? It says 5-15.
What do you have to do once you need a new chain, buy a special replacement chain and that comes with a new sharpener?
Click to expand...

Lot of questions: I'll try to hit them all.

PowerSharp. The first time you have to buy the 'starter kit', which includes: a bar, a sharpening cassette, a PowerSharp chain, and a sharpening stone. The Makita uses the same kit as the Poulans, and you can get a 14" or 16" bar. List for the kit is around $75, I commonly see them for $55, and have occasionally seen them for less. You have to use that bar because it has the specific profile that matches the stone, and is drilled for the cassette.

After that, you just buy the PowerSharp chain and sharpening stone (they come together). I have seen these for around $25 +/-. If you do not like the system, you can still use the bar with any other .050 gauge, 3/8 low profile chain. I tried it side by side with 2 other Oregon low-kickback chains on this saw and liked the PowerSharp best (see threads below). People (especially those who have not used it) like to make fun of it, but it is actually a fairly aggressive chisel chain.

As for 'number of sharpenings' - it depends, just as with a conventional chain. Do you 'touch up' regularly or wait until it is really dull? Do you hit rocks? Etc. I would say that you would get comparable chain life as with a conventional chain. The difference is that it sharpens quickly on the saw. Don't have to remove the chain, take it to a shop, pay, wait . . .etc.

Here are a couple of threads:
- http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/125402.htm
- http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/148391.htm


As far as bar length, there are several general threads on this as well. Some people like longer bars to extend their reach or reduce bending over. Depends on the type of wood you are cutting (e.g. spruce versus oak). Depends on how often you plan to cut the bigger wood, or how aggressively you cut. You can see the size of some of the wood I have cut with mine in the photos above. The combo I described does really well in wood up to 12" and I have fully buried the bar. But if I was regularly cutting large wood I would want a larger saw.

I also have gas saws. I generally want a bar a few inches longer than the wood I am cutting and I want a powerhead and chain combination that is designed to pull that size bar.

Philbert
 
LegDeLimber said:
Why am i wondering if that "washer stack" is a friction disc assembly.
something about the shapes of the parts and their facing each other like they appear to.
Is there a chance that the outer shell (that the brake band grips) is on a hub?
Thus it would be a protective device for the rest of the running gear.
Click to expand...
I don 't know, maybe like a shear device,
By friction disk, do you mean like a clutch?

Philbert said:
The Husqvarna/Jonsered electric saws also have an 'in-line' design (like a Sawzall). But I believe that that is just a similarity in appearance/format. I don't think that they share any parts (except may be bars and chains).

Lot of questions: I'll try to hit them all.

PowerSharp. The first time you have to buy the 'starter kit', which includes: a bar, a sharpening cassette, a PowerSharp chain, and a sharpening stone. The Makita uses the same kit as the Poulans, and you can get a 14" or 16" bar. List for the kit is around $75, I commonly see them for $55, and have occasionally seen them for less. You have to use that bar because it has the specific profile that matches the stone, and is drilled for the cassette.

After that, you just buy the PowerSharp chain and sharpening stone (they come together). I have seen these for around $25 +/-. If you do not like the system, you can still use the bar with any other .050 gauge, 3/8 low profile chain. I tried it side by side with 2 other Oregon low-kickback chains on this saw and liked the PowerSharp best (see threads below). People (especially those who have not used it) like to make fun of it, but it is actually a fairly aggressive chisel chain.

As for 'number of sharpenings' - it depends, just as with a conventional chain. Do you 'touch up' regularly or wait until it is really dull? Do you hit rocks? Etc. I would say that you would get comparable chain life as with a conventional chain. The difference is that it sharpens quickly on the saw. Don't have to remove the chain, take it to a shop, pay, wait . . .etc.

Here are a couple of threads:
- http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/125402.htm
- http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/148391.htm


As far as bar length, there are several general threads on this as well. Some people like longer bars to extend their reach or reduce bending over. Depends on the type of wood you are cutting (e.g. spruce versus oak). Depends on how often you plan to cut the bigger wood, or how aggressively you cut. You can see the size of some of the wood I have cut with mine in the photos above. The combo I described does really well in wood up to 12" and I have fully buried the bar. But if I was regularly cutting large wood I would want a larger saw.

I also have gas saws. I generally want a bar a few inches longer than the wood I am cutting and I want a powerhead and chain combination that is designed to pull that size bar.
Philbert
Click to expand...
Sounds good, Thanks, Will read the threads. Think Amazon had it for about $47.00 It is the # 541656
I'll see how much I use it, and may look into it.
I have been spending money like crazy.
 
it would serve as an overload protection.
i.e. the chain gets stalled/pinched and trigger is still pulled,
it slips to save the motor from being cooked as rapidly
as it would be, if it were rigidly connected to the chain.

But someone could still overheat the motor from repeated stalling
of the chain and yet applying power.

you can often see some signs of heat discoloration and solder flow
in the commutator segments
and burnt enamel on the windings
if a motor has been stalled a lot.

when you pulled a brush to look at did you see any chipped spots or
eroded areas anywhere on the brushes (you should check both of them).

-
sorry for being light on the first response,
seems like I never know how much i should chime in with.
perhaps i'll get the feel for it one day.
 
Last edited:
PowerSharp is a very good system! I have one on my Poulan 2550 and it cuts very well. I would recommend it for the type of cutting you do.
 
LegDeLimber said:
Why am i wondering if that "washer stack" is a friction disc assembly.
Click to expand...

LegDeLimber said:
it would serve as an overload protection.
i.e. the chain gets stalled/pinched and trigger is still pulled,it slips to save the motor from being cooked as rapidly as it would be, if it were rigidly connected to the chain.
Click to expand...

I have wondered about that washer stack as well. It keeps the chain from slipping off the sprocket, but you would only need one washer for that. My UC4000 also has them, but also has a spring-loaded nylon gear (parts 55 and 56 on IPL, below) that I assumed also acted as some type of 'break-away clutch'. Haven't really torn down this saw to examine it more - they are such low maintenance tools compared to a gas saw.

Philbert

attachment.php
 
I don't think there were any chipped spots or
eroded areas anywhere on the brush, I will look at them both better.

I see the manual calls for a Bar oil filter and serrated washer.
If l should need a new washer or filter, is this something common that any outdoor equipment shop would have, or is it proprietary to the makita?

LegDeLimber said:
it would serve as an overload protection.
i.e. the chain gets stalled/pinched and trigger is still pulled,
it slips to save the motor from being cooked as rapidly
as it would be, if it were rigidly connected to the chain.

But someone could still overheat the motor from repeated stalling
of the chain and yet applying power.

you can often see some signs of heat discoloration and solder flow
in the commutator segments
and burnt enamel on the windings
if a motor has been stalled a lot.

when you pulled a brush to look at did you see any chipped spots or
eroded areas anywhere on the brushes (you should check both of them).

-
sorry for being light on the first response,
seems like I never know how much i should chime in with.
perhaps i'll get the feel for it one day.
Click to expand...
 
an oil filter should be something relatively common.
But that coil should be pretty easy to clean and put back in service

serrated washer could be a bit more limited to find.

Considering how many open side spur type clutches are in the field
you have to wonder why all the extra bits are stacked on the shell
if it's not a friction assembly.

I'd like to be holding it in my hands to get a feel of it and a good look,
digital pics can do some odd things to my vision processing.
( because of that monocular diplopia issue of mine. )

and then that diagram of Philberts makes me want to see the back side of the shell.
seems to be two approaches to accomplishing ,basically, the same function.
 
Philbert said:
For what it is worth, I just checked with a local A.S. member who is a Dolmar dealer. He quoted me a retail price of around $200 for the equivalent saw in red (ES-173 A).

Philbert
Click to expand...

Ask him if that saw is still made in Germany. I didn't see many for sale on line, I saw one, but it was $300.00.
Looks like a lot of the sights might be in German.
 
What is the "coil"?

OMG I guess I should not have changed that brake drum my self.

Do Not attempt to replace the sprocket yourself. Sprocket replacement requires special training and tools,And must be done at a Dolmar service center.


It does say not to use a worn out sprocket, it may damage chain. I wonder if I should just get a new one.



LegDeLimber said:
an oil filter should be something relatively common.
But that coil should be pretty easy to clean and put back in service

serrated washer could be a bit more limited to find.

Considering how many open side spur type clutches are in the field
you have to wonder why all the extra bits are stacked on the shell
if it's not a friction assembly.

I'd like to be holding it in my hands to get a feel of it and a good look,
digital pics can do some odd things to my vision processing.
( because of that monocular diplopia issue of mine. )

and then that diagram of Philberts makes me want to see the back side of the shell.
seems to be two approaches to accomplishing ,basically, the same function.
Click to expand...
 
The coil i mentioned would be part 39 in the PB_UC4030.pdf.
just a piece of coiled wire or a closely coiled spring that's on the end of the oil line.
serves the purpose of just keeping the larger trash from entering the oiler.

sorry for getting skimpy on words again.
Seems I do a lot better in real life/face to face stuff
where it's easy to grab a part and point while talking.
 
OK I see It. I have to make sure the oiler is working too.
Have not really had a chance to work on it.
It's been too cold to feel like doing anything.

The Dolmar tag is from the manual. I'll bet the Dolmar is still made in Germany.
This one I got is still the German made one too.



LegDeLimber said:
The coil i mentioned would be part 39 in the PB_UC4030.pdf.
just a piece of coiled wire or a closely coiled spring that's on the end of the oil line.
serves the purpose of just keeping the larger trash from entering the oiler.

sorry for getting skimpy on words again.
Seems I do a lot better in real life/face to face stuff
where it's easy to grab a part and point while talking.
Click to expand...
 
mrbreezeet1 said:
So I am going to see how this cuts with the chain from Home Depot, but I may later try a 91VXL.
Looking at this chart from Oregon, Am I to take it that this saw will take a 56 Or a 58 drive link chain?
Home Depot said they use a 57.
Click to expand...

I mentioned this in Post 24 above. It depends on the bar. You can count the number of links your current chain to be sure. If you buy a different bar, it might vary by a link or two.

91VXL is not a low-kickback chain.

You may also want to consider 91PX, which is low-kickback chain but does not have the 'bumper tie straps' (91VG) that many people do not like. Remember that this saw turns at about half the speed as a gas saw, so the increase in a high performance chain will be limited, but kickback potential remains.

Note that if you buy saw chain at a home center, hardware store, etc., it will probably be packaged as 'S56' (56 links), 'S57' (57 links) etc. You will know that it is 3/8 low profile. .050, low kickback chain, but you won't know which model unless you look closely. In other words, it will fit and work, but if you are fussy, look carefully, or buy the chain from a saw shop or catalog like Bailey's that lets you choose.

Philbert
 

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