McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

I spent some time on Friday going through a McCulloch 10 Series "Bullfrog" carburetor and have a lot of photo's, I will try to put together a new thread later on this week.

One thing I discovered is you can use the little red Homelite duckbill valve (sorry I don't have the Part Number with me right now, Modified Mark would know) if you are willing to drill out the passageway in the body of the carburetor a bit. Again, I will have some details forthcoming.

As best I can tell, the same diaphraghm/gasket works on all of the "Bullfrog" carburetors. I had both single needle (like Grizzly's) and double needle versions apart for comparison.

When I was finished the saw went from barely running to starting reliably and though maybe a bit rich on the top end, it would hold strong in the cut.

Just to be sure it wasn't a fluke, I replaced the duckbill in another carburetor with the same modification and low and behold the primer worked just like a new one.

Sorry I can't do more now but I am old and tired.

Mark

 

[motordaddye6]

mac saw

i just got a mac 3200 a free be mind you replcd fuel line and filter runs but the gaskets for carb are shot suckin air saw looks brand new dealer said parts are not avail for saws older than 2000 ? any ideas were i can get parts? im in chicago area possible trade so let me no ---thanks o im not a mac fan but any info on this saw? i have stihls so not familiar with macs

 

[little possum]

How bout a little help Mac Gurus?

Picked one up today and have no clue what it is. No readible numbers on the sticker on the air filter cover, but looks like it starts with a D.
Has a top side recoil First one I have ever seen
No oiler button, and a Tilly carb. Full wrap handle with small 3 prong dawg.

Only number on the bottom side is 22712

Kind of looks like the D-36 on Acres, any way to verify?

Also picked a older (yellow top) 250 today. Darn this CAD

 

[RandyMac]

Be carefull with those 250s, if you let one in, the rest in a 100 square miles will head for your door. You won't even know they are there, they sneak in under the cover of night, to be uncovered later. They are almost as bad as C5s.

 

[leeha]

Be carefull with those 250s, if you let one in, the rest in a 100 square miles will head for your door. You won't even know they are there, they sneak in under the cover of night, to be uncovered later. They are almost as bad as C5s.

Amen to that,
I got my first 250, a Super 250 at that,
a couple weeks ago and a few days later
i had 2 regular 250's as well.


Lee

 

[RandyMac]

Everybody needs atleast two 250s and one or three Supers, I think God wants us to have lots of McCullochs.

790

 

[mactodd]

I spent some time on Friday going through a McCulloch 10 Series "Bullfrog" carburetor and have a lot of photo's, I will try to put together a new thread later on this week.

One thing I discovered is you can use the little red Homelite duckbill valve (sorry I don't have the Part Number with me right now, Modified Mark would know) if you are willing to drill out the passageway in the body of the carburetor a bit. Again, I will have some details forthcoming.

As best I can tell, the same diaphraghm/gasket works on all of the "Bullfrog" carburetors. I had both single needle (like Grizzly's) and double needle versions apart for comparison.

When I was finished the saw went from barely running to starting reliably and though maybe a bit rich on the top end, it would hold strong in the cut.

Just to be sure it wasn't a fluke, I replaced the duckbill in another carburetor with the same modification and low and behold the primer worked just like a new one.

Sorry I can't do more now but I am old and tired.

Mark

We must have been on the same wavelength, Mark. I fiddled with the 3-10E the other day and got it running. Without the valve, the primer still worked!?!
Looking forward to the Homelite conversion. That'll be a boon to all those saws with bullfrogs. I actually think they work pretty good. The 70cc versions do have a different diaphragm though. I think I have an example of all the 54cc versions that I need to photograph for the cause.

 

[jnl502]

Be carefull with those 250s, if you let one in, the rest in a 100 square miles will head for your door. You won't even know they are there, they sneak in under the cover of night, to be uncovered later. They are almost as bad as C5s.

i think u're rite got 3 of them big square blue bas***ds runnin round here. one of them runs good just can't figure out which one. my c-9 is the best of them. thank god it is red!
jnl

 

[Brian13]

Be carefull with those 250s, if you let one in, the rest in a 100 square miles will head for your door. You won't even know they are there, they sneak in under the cover of night, to be uncovered later. They are almost as bad as C5s.

Your not kidding, the only reason I dont have more is because I have been looking for a 100+cc Mac on a beat up 10-10 budget. Otherwise I would have at least one running 250 by now.

 

[Sprintcar]

Be carefull with those 250s, if you let one in, the rest in a 100 square miles will head for your door. You won't even know they are there, they sneak in under the cover of night, to be uncovered later. They are almost as bad as C5s.

10-10s are the same way. They come from 1500 miles away.

:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[RandyMac]

That's because they rev faster. What's that pulp saw sound like with that reed muffler?
10-10s aren't thick at the moment, I'm elbow deep in top tank direct drives though.

 

[little possum]

Anyways after a cleaning, you can see the D36 very lightly on the sticker.

So can anybody tell me anything about the saw? Besides it doesnt look like its going to be easy to pull the cylinder off to decarbon

Did not get to the 250 yet. But I do have a black top one sitting in the shop too.

 

[stinkbait]

Anyways after a cleaning, you can see the D36 very lightly on the sticker.

So can anybody tell me anything about the saw? Besides it doesnt look like its going to be easy to pull the cylinder off to decarbon

Did not get to the 250 yet. But I do have a black top one sitting in the shop too.

The cylinder isn't going to come off anyway. It's a unit-block design. You will have to disassemble the whole engine to get inside the cylinder.

 

[Urbicide]

Anyways after a cleaning, you can see the D36 very lightly on the sticker.

So can anybody tell me anything about the saw? Besides it doesnt look like its going to be easy to pull the cylinder off to decarbon

Did not get to the 250 yet. But I do have a black top one sitting in the shop too.

The D30 & the D36 were the only center pull recoil saws built by Mac. That will tell you how successful the design was. McCulloch did come out with improved center pull recoil components for upgrading the saws. I have the service bulletin if you were ever wanting to try & find the upgraded parts.

The D30, D36, 1-40, & the 1-50 all came equipped with the Lubri-Mac chain oiling system. The fuel to oil ratio had to be mixed at 10 : 1. Only then would there be enough oil precipitating out from the gasoline in the crankcase that would, in turn, be vacuumed up & then directed to the bar at the bar mounting pad. Most of the D30, D36, & 1-40 were refitted by removing the original fuel tank front cover. A sheet metal bulkhead, with a tank gasket on each side of it, replaced the original fuel tank cover. Then an oil tank, which had the same height & width dimensions as the fuel tank, was bolted up on the front side of the sheet metal bulkhead. This oil tank had a manual oil pump and an oil fill cap on the left hand side. Then the operator could oil the b & c in a conventional manner.

The 1-50 came with the separate oil tank from the factory as well as having the Lubri-Mac oiling system.

It is easy to see if a Mac saw is equipped with the Lubri-Mac system. Turn the saw upside down. Look at the crankcase bottom, just behind the fuel tank, to where identifying numbers are normally stamped. There will be a slotted screw head which secures the L-M valve components right in the center of the raised area.

Your saw should have a removable cylinder head. Be careful as not to damage the head gasket sealing surface. Small scratches & nicks in the gasket surface can be removed with emery cloth or an oil stone. If the head has cracks or is warped it is supposed to be replaced.

The cylinder head screws are torqued to 55 to 60 inch pounds.

 

[little possum]

Thanks for the info Urbicide!
This one does have a oiler located on the left side of the saw, near the handle.

Mitchell, sounds like a job for you

 

[Arturo]

Need manual for Eager Beaver 3.4ci, Model 60013416, Serial 11-034816

I just bought an Eager Beaver 3.4ci, Model 60013416, Serial 11-034816.I didn't get a manual for it and need to know the specs for the gas mix and oil type. I googled tie above and this forum is the only good site I found. I even tried bing and yahoo. DerekJ says he has a manual so may I please get information about it. Thanks. P.S. how old is it?

 

[cpr]

I had a rare, continuous 60 minutes of nowhere to be and nothing to do tonight. So, I pulled out the D44 Keen gave me to see about putting a kit in the carb. I had run the saw before on a shot down the bore, but it wouldn't run on its own. We both suspected the carb. While I was at it I checked compression. 150 psi so all is good there. I popped the flywheel cover for the sake of it and found the back shroud broken near the top bolt. I'll try JB Weld on that, no big deal.

Next I got the carb out. But I noticed no fuel coming out the line and I could not remember having emptied the saw. Plugged vent? Twist off cap, no flow, but 3/4 full tank. I remembered thinking the gunk I saw in the top of the tank might've been corrosion, this time I wiped it with a finger... yuck. Here's why it won't run.

I'll get this thing cleaned out. I'll have to hunt down a tank gasket. Has anyone ever tried to clean one of these felt filters? I don't have great hope that I'll find one. I'll make the usual phone calls, though.

Should be a sweet runner when it's complete, but it'll take a while, shop time is few and far between this time of year.

 

[cpr]

Gasket ordered!!!

 

[little possum]

Glad you found your part CPR. These Macs seem to be addictive, almost a separate CAD.

Sure is some nasty looking gunk in there.

 

[Urbicide]

I just bought an Eager Beaver 3.4ci, Model 60013416, Serial 11-034816.I didn't get a manual for it and need to know the specs for the gas mix and oil type. I googled tie above and this forum is the only good site I found. I even tried bing and yahoo. DerekJ says he has a manual so may I please get information about it. Thanks. P.S. how old is it?

You might try searching this site. There are a lot of the later era "consumer" model IPLs, but not too many of the bigger saws. You would use the 11 along with 60013416to find the IPL. I looked for a bit but did not see it. Figured I'd let you have some of the fun.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/McCulloch_Parts_Service_Repair_Manuals/Gas_Powered_Chain_Saws/

If nothing else, you could pull up the IPLs of some other EB saws. I think McCulloch enjoyed making a million different parts listings. There might be 1 slight change, no matter how trivial, that change would bring on another IPL.