Ok, thats who you are, and yes that polished cover looked familiar but the bar was a bit more significant. We were at Powerland last weekend and will be there tomorrow.
Yes we were at the steamup along with Fraiser & Sheldon. Bob is supposed to show up tomorrow or sunday. I hope tomorrow asI doubt we will be there sunday. And yes, Mike is hard to miss. I am in Portland and Mike is in Gresham.
I reuse mine but have heard that before as well. Bolt stretch would be my only concern so measuring OAL might be an idea if you have a new one to compare to. I reused the bolts on my 101 and so far no issues, though they do not have the funny Mac head on them. Standard allen bolts may work.
That's pretty cool, didn't realize a full wrap from the 80cc saws can be adapted to a non-anti-vibe saw... Did you just use the bottom mounts and handle?
I used the bottom mount, the rear handle, and the handle mount on the fuel tank. I leaves a pretty good gap at the bottom but I really like the look of the full wrap. The rear handle had to be slightly modified to work. And I'm still working on my spacer to utilize the bottom mount.
If I remember correctly (not always a sure bet) the rod bolts are 8-32 socket head cap screws. You can get good quality screws from any Fastenal, etc.. You only need the special head screws on the kart engines, standard socket head screws will contact the crankcase.
I bought a 10-10S one time that had the bottom plate and full wrap handle from one of the later model anti-vibe saws installed. Yours is off an SP model and mounts up a bit differently.
I changed it back to the original, not sure what I did with the left over parts.
Don, I have reused rod bolts many times. If the saw looks like it's been appart
a few times i will go with new ones. But if never appart i'm not affraid to use
them again. Just torque them to Mac specs.
Good to have those on hand Brian. I still have a few NOS seals and a pile of clips from Steve Anderson.
Don / Lee - I have reused the rod bolts on both the 101 saws and the SP and CP 125 without really thinking about it. I don't run tanks of fuel through these on a regular basis so I expect the rod bolts will be O.K.
My pro-Mac 10-10 auto oiler quit on me. I don't know how it even works. Is it a pressurized tank or worm gear? Where would y'all start to diagnose? Pull the cover off the oil tank and take a look? The manual oiler still works fine. Thanks!
If the manual oiler works it is likely the piston in the auto oiler is stuck or broken. Automatic works off crankcase pressure pulses just like the fuel pump in the carburetor.
Remove the cover from the oil tank the remove the automatic pump and check it out. Try searching for related threads, there are some good ones.