McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

Just a heads up to my MAC friends, I drilled a 1/4" hole in a perfectly good PM800. I got a plug from Ace Hardware to fill it. Will let that simmer until my Fastenal shipment arrives tomorrow, then I'll give you a peek at my latest "improvement". Now I need to go post this at two more MAC hangouts.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

Have to simmer another day. Fastenal delivery delayed until tomorrow. Sorry, Ron

 

[heimannm]

I bought some 1/8" square o-ring stock from McMaster Carr, repaired two tanks so far with good results, photos to come when I have a chance.

Mark

 

[dynodave]

I bought some 1/8" square o-ring stock from McMaster Carr, repaired two tanks so far with good results, photos to come when I have a chance.

Mark

The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

buna-n is my first try
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#9700k11/=z82oo4

if using E-10 then viton may be better
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#2542t21/=z82pq8

razor blade cut approx 17-1/4" super glue the joint.

Mark
Did the 1/8 feel a little fat? In the 10-10 I did with 3/32, I almost felt THAT was a bit tall.
Did you go bunaN or viton?

I was and still am very conscious for thickness and spacing relating to the carb position.
My 7-10 side idle adjustment screw does not touch the carb arm enough to hold the idle speed up.
Then I looked up the IPLs to see all 3 of my macs have carb gasket/spacer/spacer gasket. The thickness, if to thin, will let the carb not be high enough to hit the idle screw. I made my own gasket on the 7-10 and don't know what the normal full thickness is. Either the shaft is worn a bit sloppy or the gaskets are to thin.

 

[rwoods]

Fastenal let me down again - maybe tomorrow my order will arrive. Ron

 

[heimannm]

Dave - I had to stretch it a bit to get it to drop in place. The cork ones I measured were .120 and the rubber (buna n) was about .130.

I have found it necessary to bend the tab on the carburetor a bit to properly engage the idle speed screw on a few saws.


Mark

 

[dynodave]

Dave - I had to stretch it a bit to get it to drop in place. The cork ones I measured were .120 and the rubber (buna n) was about .130.
I have found it necessary to bend the tab on the carburetor a bit to properly engage the idle speed screw on a few saws.
Mark

Thanks Mark
I felt the cork probably compress to half height and the 3/32 would still be a bit pudgy. I did not want the gas tank top to have a big ugly crack at the joint with the main body. The square o-ring does seem like a reasonable fix for a lack of gasket supply. Worked for me.

On the carb idle adjust issue, I could possibly use some thick gasket material to raise the carb or bend the tab as you say, but modifying parts is usually a last resort when I can't figure out a problem. While it fixes the problem/symptom it makes me feel like a brainless failure. If it worked when new, why won't it work now? That's what I like to find out.

 

[rwoods]

Fastenal came through today! Before you get all excited unnecessarily, this modification is not a performance modification. It is a McAggravation modification.

The hole. The hole plugged.


Those familiar with Mac lore and Mac mysteries (or AV Macs) are all aware of the unobtainable and indescribable part number 83811 - known only in the IPLs as “Screw – Special”. Among its attributes is the fact that it is a royal pain to slowly remove it a fraction of a turn at a time. To ignore it and remove/install the rear A/V mount from the top risks bending the oiler rod and/or breaking the oil button and fits of rage when you realize you must disassemble the saw again for some reason. The 1/4” hole allows easy access to the “wait for three days” Fastenal replacement screw. This makes disassembly and assembly so much easier. You could drill a smaller hole to accommodate a 5/32” Allen wrench but I chose the 1/4” to give me more wiggle room and because that was the smallest diameter hole plug that Ace Hardware had.

The “Screw – Special”. The replacement screw.



The Wrench in place. The Saw.



Ron

 

[ML12]

I was wondering if anyone had ever tried to put a 101b motor in a gear drive chassis? It would make an impressive saw for big milling I think. Anyone seen one or have pictures?

 

[rwoods]

I was wondering if anyone had ever tried to put a 101b motor in a gear drive chassis? It would make an impressive saw for big milling I think. Anyone seen one or have pictures?

I built this saw a couple winters ago.
Mcculloch geardrive powered by a 101B
kart motor. An absolute blast to run.



Lee

Ron

 

[Nickolas]

I'm curious to what people in here have for the model 73 serial number for those who own one. According to bulletins I know they made over 55000 model 73 saws but I have yet to see one with a serial number over 10,000. Does anyone in here own a Model 73 that's over serial number 10000? I've seen a 73A in the 11,000 range but that's a different saw all together that I'm not looking into.

Also starting around 10347 they started putting the snorkel air filter system on the saws and you don't see hardly any of those either. I have one serial number 49 50 that has the snorkel air filter system on it obviously it's an add-on but I've only seen a few others. Im researching certain features of this saw and trying to see what all is out there.

You can tell from certain parts and pieces the age of it. I have one with no tag and a blank pad but the 6 hole clutch drum on it tells me its prior to serial number 4227. After this serial number they went to a stronger two hole drum. So these changes tell a lot about the saw. If anyone can share their serial number id appreciate it.

It would also be interesting to see what the lowest serial number around is. There is a lot of documentation by McCulloch on the model 73 saw. I'm also checking into the Model 77 but so far there isn't much around on that model. Anyway I'd appreciate anything anyone can share.

Thanks,

Nick

My 73 serial #4950 with 4' bar and snorkel air filter system

 

[super44]

What would be a fair price for a 1-86 that looks to be all there but has not run in a few years?

 

[super44]

I'm curious to what people in here have for the model 73 serial number for those who own one. According to bulletins I know they made over 55000 model 73 saws but I have yet to see one with a serial number over 10,000. Does anyone in here own a Model 73 that's over serial number 10000? I've seen a 73A in the 11,000 range but that's a different saw all together that I'm not looking into.

Also starting around 10347 they started putting the snorkel air filter system on the saws and you don't see hardly any of those either. I have one serial number 49 50 that has the snorkel air filter system on it obviously it's an add-on but I've only seen a few others. Im researching certain features of this saw and trying to see what all is out there.

You can tell from certain parts and pieces the age of it. I have one with no tag and a blank pad but the 6 hole clutch drum on it tells me its prior to serial number 4227. After this serial number they went to a stronger two hole drum. So these changes tell a lot about the saw. If anyone can share their serial number id appreciate it.

It would also be interesting to see what the lowest serial number around is. There is a lot of documentation by McCulloch on the model 73 saw. I'm also checking into the Model 77 but so far there isn't much around on that model. Anyway I'd appreciate anything anyone can share.

Thanks,

Nick

My 73 serial #4950 with 4' bar and snorkel air filter system

Mine is # 2183 and it is just scratched where the tag might be below the handle.

 

[Nickolas]

Mine is # 2183 and it is just scratched where the tag might be below the handle.

So no tag and nothing stamped in the pad? Another low serial number saw. I wonder where are all of the higher numbered saws at? Just don't see any over 5000 it seems. They made over 55000 of these and every time one comes up its always fairly low serial number. After 10347 they all had the snorkel air filter system and you don't see any of those at all. Thanks for your reply I appreciate it.

Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk

 

[Nickolas]

What would be a fair price for a 1-86 that looks to be all there but has not run in a few years?

I have a 1-76 that's really clean I got off Craigs list for 30 bucks. That was a flat out steal. 100cc saw with a replacement block and killer compression. The 1-86 is its gear drive sibling. Good saw indeed. I would think at least 150.00 anyway for a starting point at least depending on condition. We all have our own values and what we would pay for saws. Nothing is set in stone it's between the buyer and seller pretty much.

I've gotten real fair deals as and others try to go for full blown retail or more. Everyone on ebay now seems to think their saw has a gold lining it it from asking prices. Don't know what the hell people are thinking but some are just nuts with pricing. Everyone wants to make something but you don't need to Reem people. That's not how to get repeat buyers. I'd love to have a 1-86 myself if we can come to an agreement on price. PM me if you want to get together in it.

Nick

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[GrizzlyAdams86]

I think I paid $5 at an auction for the 1-70 in my sig line more than 6 or 7 years ago in ok shape. Picked up another one for about the same 2 years ago, but it was not as nice and very dirty. Gave that one to super44 for free, saw him recently and he said it's got spark and good compression.

 

[super44]

Anyone have any luck trying to cut a cork gasket for a Pro Mac 60 ( 600036D )? Ebay has them and that is probably much simpler.

An update, I took a piece of gasket material and set it on the tank and screwed the cover down. After some time it left an imprint on the gasket material. I cut that out and put it under the cork gasket, put a thin layer of Yamabond over the cork and set the cover on. After about 15 minutes I tightened it down. I have not put gas in it yet but next time out to the woods to cut some firewood I will know if it worked.

 

[GrizzlyAdams86]

I've used the red Permatex gasket maker/sealant on it's own to re-seal a few gas tank covers on front-tank Macs with no issues. Put a bead around the mounting surface and tightened it down. Then let it sit overnight empty, then put some gas in and let them sit overnight again on a piece of cardboard to check for leaks. Last one I did didn't leak at all.

 

[joeymt33]

I've used the red Permatex gasket maker/sealant on it's own to re-seal a few gas tank covers on front-tank Macs with no issues. Put a bead around the mounting surface and tightened it down. Then let it sit overnight empty, then put some gas in and let them sit overnight again on a piece of cardboard to check for leaks. Last one I did didn't leak at all.

I tried that and reported it to be a success too. Then a couple months down the road it leaked.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Fel-Pro