Mine is inside.
I cleaned and adjusted the points, still no spark so maybe the ignition lead is damaged from touching the fins....?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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I cleaned and adjusted the points, still no spark so maybe the ignition lead is damaged from touching the fins....?
Yeah can happen. Believe that's why it got changed
Traditionally they werte run on the inside stuffed in between the cylinder fins,BUT.....I had a couple of saws that boggled my brain when I was first starting out.One time the saw had spark,the next time it didn't.When I'd pull it over I could hear the spark,but not at the plug.Finally one night it hit me like a ton ofg bricks - it was shorting out on the plug wire.I pulled the coil off & sure enough the wire had worn through & was shorting out in between the fins.Should the ignition wire of a 2-10 run inside or outside the cover?
If you'll notice on the cylinder shield,there's a slot to run the wire on the outside of the saw.Ever since that episode I run the wire on the outside of the saw.I've never had an issue with it getting snagged on anything either.
Yeah I saw that on mine, but most pics of 2-10s on the interweb show the lead on the inside, hence why I asked.
I might try it on the outside, I'm hoping I don't need to replace it.
Interweb!!!? Thats awesome. I have a budy that says that. Makes me laugh
If no spark you could have a bad condenser.
OK, now I'm hoping it is the lead.
Houston we have a problem!
I put a new ignition lead on and... we have ignition!
Except it's popping but won't run.
The reused connection was very loose on the spark plug so I tried a new plug and that was nice and snug, it runs now but probably needs a tune.
Help a fella out here ...... I'm trying to find a fuel tank for a 291. Isn't there a classifieds section I can look in somewhere?????
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Just post "new thread " wanted
I bet I have one in Bobs stuff. But there is zero way I can begin to look for a couple months bob.Not enough space to sort until addition is complete. Sorry.
Completely understand. I'll try to remember to ask later on. It's no rush , I just know I'm not paying $125 for a new one. She'll be a parts saw before I do that.
700 gone. 650nzd 379 us. I'm sad but happy
I'll get this going now. More "ute" rash but just as much runtime
I'll get this going now. More "ute" rash but just as much runtime
You did well, another will fill the gap one day. Itll be ok.
a few days ago, I posted about an old MAC 28" 3/8/.050 bar with a worn-out groove. after discussing with some of y'all, I ordered a .058 chain one link longer than the 88 link that came with the bar (couldn't find one with 88 links). today the new Oregon chain showed up. not what I expected to see.
the old 88 link chain is much longer than the new 89 link chain. the new one is way too short to mount to the saw. I have counted the drive links over and over. the old one is 88 and the new one is 89. they are both Oregon, 3/8". the old one is .050 and the new one is .058. the new .058 fits nicely in the groove.
can the old chain be stretched that much? what am I missing here?
the old 88 link chain is much longer than the new 89 link chain. the new one is way too short to mount to the saw. I have counted the drive links over and over. the old one is 88 and the new one is 89. they are both Oregon, 3/8". the old one is .050 and the new one is .058. the new .058 fits nicely in the groove.
can the old chain be stretched that much? what am I missing here?
old chain. 88 links.
