McCulloch Chain Saws

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No pins in the ring grooves. I'll go conservative this round, and give it a try. I noticed on 610's pics the PM850 is an open exhaust port and has the thin rings!! It looks to me like Mcculloch built these things with speed and economy in mind. Very rough castings and machining. That just means there is more room for improvement!!

Yea, don't take too much out, you'll lose some velocity. Check this website out, very controversial, but a lot of this stuff makes sense if you think about it. However, it has only been proven on four-strokers... so I guess some differences may apply to a 2-smoke. :)
-=MototuneUSA Car And Motorcycle Performance // PhotoBlog

I like the break-in secrets... I agree that using an engine under load is the way to break it in. Like they say with diesel trucks that you buy brand new, go tow some trailers. :)
 
I just happened to start looking at the first page and noticed a guy named Bruce Hopf started this whole thread... I checked his profile and he is banned... anyone know why? :msp_confused: Was it something that just happened for no reason, kind of like what RandyMac went through?
 
I just happened to start looking at the first page and noticed a guy named Bruce Hopf started this whole thread... I checked his profile and he is banned... anyone know why? :msp_confused: Was it something that just happened for no reason, kind of like what RandyMac went through?

Yeah, he typed three consecutive posts....



Just kidding,
 
795-895 questions



picked up an 895 last night and got it running and cutting today.

first thing I did was pull the coil and look for special bumps on the block.

then I noticed it needed to be spaced when re mounting. What is the recomended gap from the rotor?

The 895 had a few things taken off so I need some fasteners.

I grabbed a 795 and was trying to pull the muff and I think I have a hogged out allen head. Any ideas how to get that bugger out? Drill it off maybe?

thanks, ric

795
795ex.jpg


895
895coil.jpg


895
CIMG4998.jpg
 
795-895 questions



picked up an 895 last night and got it running and cutting today.

first thing I did was pull the coil and look for special bumps on the block.

then I noticed it needed to be spaced when re mounting. What is the recomended gap from the rotor?

The 895 had a few things taken off so I need some fasteners.

I grabbed a 795 and was trying to pull the muff and I think I have a hogged out allen head. Any ideas how to get that bugger out? Drill it off maybe?

thanks, ric

I always gapped mine .010 from the flywheel to the laminates, never a problem.
 
I just happened to start looking at the first page and noticed a guy named Bruce Hopf started this whole thread... I checked his profile and he is banned... anyone know why? :msp_confused: Was it something that just happened for no reason, kind of like what RandyMac went through?

The story goes Bruce found a large store of old saws in his native country (Canada) and let us all know he'd help members if they were interested in purchasing some. Apparently someone in the management of AS determined this was infringing on other sellers or some such and shut him down.

I ended up with a 1-61 and a 795 from that find, both are covered in other threads floating around here.

There may have been more to it than that, but I think any thing he did wrong was unintentional and with only good intent in his heart. I expect if you Googled him you'd find him in some other chain saw and old equipment web site forums.

Mark
 
jeesh, were do ya find all the big bore gear drives???? I've got an eye open for a 100cc or bigger direct or gear drive.
Coil air gap is supposed to be .008- .010. I use two plies of 20# bond paper. ( std. typing paper)
Buggered allen head= drill bit. Have fun.
 
795-895 questions



picked up an 895 last night and got it running and cutting today.

first thing I did was pull the coil and look for special bumps on the block.

then I noticed it needed to be spaced when re mounting. What is the recomended gap from the rotor?

The 895 had a few things taken off so I need some fasteners.

I grabbed a 795 and was trying to pull the muff and I think I have a hogged out allen head. Any ideas how to get that bugger out? Drill it off maybe?

thanks, ric

795

Nice looking 895!!! That is on my must have list for sure LOL. For the allen, sometimes I have luck using the next larger opposite allen. IE. if its SAE use the slightly larger metric equivalent. It sometimes work if the bolt isnt stuck in. Might have to tap it with a hammer to get the allen key in and be real careful not to strip in once its in. But on occasion it works.
 
jeesh, were do ya find all the big bore gear drives???? I've got an eye open for a 100cc or bigger direct or gear drive.
Coil air gap is supposed to be .008- .010. I use two plies of 20# bond paper. ( std. typing paper)
Buggered allen head= drill bit. Have fun.

I used a business card to set the gap on my 850. :) It worked well. I heard of guys using a single sheet of college-ruled paper, but they said you must have perfect main bearings as a tiny bit of up and down travel will ruin the laminations.

Ever wish they used T-25 or T-30 bolts? You have to try to strip them, and try hard, lol. If you have the right driver, you ain't gonna strip it.
 
Nice looking 895!!! That is on my must have list for sure LOL. For the allen, sometimes I have luck using the next larger opposite allen. IE. if its SAE use the slightly larger metric equivalent. It sometimes work if the bolt isnt stuck in. Might have to tap it with a hammer to get the allen key in and be real careful not to strip in once its in. But on occasion it works.

Ditto for that, try one of the metric ones, some are just a fraction of an inch bigger, and I have gotten stripped allen bolts out. Don't expect it to remove a stuck bolt though...

If you really screw up the screw hole, visit my PM850 thread and see how I made an insert out of a nut. :) I am too tired to type that whole procedure over again, lol.
 
Nice looking 895!!! That is on my must have list for sure LOL. For the allen, sometimes I have luck using the next larger opposite allen. IE. if its SAE use the slightly larger metric equivalent. It sometimes work if the bolt isnt stuck in. Might have to tap it with a hammer to get the allen key in and be real careful not to strip in once its in. But on occasion it works.


Thats a trick i use all the time.



Lee
 
The story goes Bruce found a large store of old saws in his native country (Canada) and let us all know he'd help members if they were interested in purchasing some. Apparently someone in the management of AS determined this was infringing on other sellers or some such and shut him down.

I ended up with a 1-61 and a 795 from that find, both are covered in other threads floating around here.

There may have been more to it than that, but I think any thing he did wrong was unintentional and with only good intent in his heart. I expect if you Googled him you'd find him in some other chain saw and old equipment web site forums.

Mark

Yes, Bruce is still "out there", but doesn't run Macs much anymore. He's been taken by the Euros :msp_ohmy:.
 
Just got this in the mail from Randy Mac today, PBR and all. It's SP81 engine. I might get a little wild on the porting of this one. I'm think I'm going to put it in a 10-10 saw and run a 16" bar with square ground .404 and a 8 tooth sprocket. Should be a good firewood saw. Thanks again Randy. Enjoying the beer as I type.:cheers:

IMG_20110324_203802.jpg
 
Just got this in the mail from Randy Mac today, PBR and all. It's SP81 engine. I might get a little wild on the porting of this one. I'm think I'm going to put it in a 10-10 saw and run a 16" bar with square ground .404 and a 8 tooth sprocket. Should be a good firewood saw. Thanks again Randy. Enjoying the beer as I type.:cheers:

IMG_20110324_203802.jpg

Why not a 9 pin and 10" bar? :D
 
You'll have your work cut out for sure. Try sawking or JJ they may know of a shop that could whip that up.
 

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