McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

Oh yeah, the saw: It is beautiful. It is only missing the sawdust screen and original bar nuts. Only broken part is a stress fracture in the muffler where someone tightened the back bolt down too much. The cylinder has a nice spiral swirl still showing and the piston looks great. The bar is a 42” hard nose (46” OAL). The .404 chain is sharp but is down to the nubs. :biggrin: Ron

 

[Eccentric]

Sweet score Ron!

We all hope to land deals like that.

 

[rwoods]

Pictures:

View attachment 238020View attachment 238021View attachment 238022View attachment 238023View attachment 238024

I didn't take a picture of the cylinder but it is as clean on the outside as the airbox is on the inside - just a couple of old leaves - no oil or grime.

Does anyone have any advice on what I should do before I just fuel her and attempt to start her? Seller says it has not been started in many years.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

Sweet score Ron!

We all hope to land deals like that.

Thanks. I would still rather have found my dad's old bow gear drive, but I couldn't let this saw go by without at least checking on it. I came within a cat's hair of throwing it up on the ebay thread the day I had to sit it out - but after I saw it I'm glad I didn't. I have missed a lot of saws because I called too late, but my best saws have actually come from stale ads. The buyer's story is almost always the same - either they have been beaten up over the price or they simply doesn't want to ship. Ron

 

[Eccentric]

I didn't take a picture of the cylinder but it is as clean on the outside as the airbox is on the inside - just a couple of old leaves - no oil or grime.

Does anyone have any advice on what I should do before I just fuel her and attempt to start her? Seller says it has not been started in many years.

Ron

Remove the spark plug, spray some WD40 into the jug, open the choke and throttle, spray some WD40 down the throat, then pull it over several times. That will oil up the bearings and the rings/jug a bit. Replace the plug, fuel 'er up, hit the comp release, shoot some mix down the throat, and pull. Prime and pull (reset the decomp) until it runs on it's own.

 

[heimannm]

That is a very nice find Ron, take good care of it.

You might consider pulling the muffler just to make a visual check to insure there is nothing in there that is not supposed to be, like a mud daubers nest or something along that order. Can't be too careful on a vintage piece like that one.

Mark

 

[RandyMac]

was the airbox that clean? It is always a good sign if it was.

 

[rwoods]

Remove the spark plug, spray some WD40 into the jug, open the choke and throttle, spray some WD40 down the throat, then pull it over several times. That will oil up the bearings and the rings/jug a bit. Replace the plug, fuel 'er up, hit the comp release, shoot some mix down the throat, and pull. Prime and pull (reset the decomp) until it runs on it's own.

That is a very nice find Ron, take good care of it.

You might consider pulling the muffler just to make a visual check to insure there is nothing in there that is not supposed to be, like a mud daubers nest or something along that order. Can't be too careful on a vintage piece like that one.

Mark

Guys, thanks. I'll fog it good with WD40. I pulled the muffler last night and all is okay. I plan to run a magnet in the cylinder to remove the few small rust flakes that came off the muffler. The plug looked almost new on the inside; the outside of the plug looked in keeping with the saw's exterior appearance.

I plan on putting her in rotation with my other 125s, so she'll be run several times a year. I guess I should start saying "he" as I think I'll name the saw "Rufus" in honor of the original owner, Rufus Raines.

The anticipation of unpacking and checking out this saw made my 625 mile drive yesterday go by a lot quicker than usual.

Ron

PS My excitement over this unexpected find was damped somewhat upon learning of the unexpected death of one of the key people of our firewood ministry, Dewey Thomas. He and his wife were one of several husband and wife teams that along with several key men make this ministry work. Dewey didn't cut but he delivered hundreds of loads of wood to needy people. He also procured equipment for the ministry and managed many of the inmates assigned by the sheriff. He will be sorely missed. He was only 60. Please offer a prayer of peace for his family. Thanks, Ron

 

[rwoods]

was the airbox that clean? It is always a good sign if it was.

Yes, Sir. I haven't cleaned a thing yet. Air filter was not new but very clean with only the color and gasket indicating that it was not new. I should have taken a picture of the outside of the cylinder. It is just a nice dull color, no oil, no saw dust - nothing but two wilted leaves stuck in the fins. The exposed bottom of the cylinder has a little of the oily film and filth that you see on the exterior. Clearly the saw hasn't been used much nor has it been given a recent cleaning as the parts easily cleaned aren't and the parts that are hard to clean are practically spotless. This is the cleanest used saw I have ever purchased. I bet Rufus got to Florida and quickly figured out that there isn't a whole lot of tree service work for a 125 as most folks let those big oaks keep on growing and they seem to be quite hardy despite the occasional hurricane. Ron

 

[leeha]

Good looking 125 You found Ron.
You don't usually find them that clean.
I would mix up some fuel at 16-1 for
some good lube. Prime down the carb
with some mix, Add a tad more oil and
run it. She should be ok.



Lee

 

[rwoods]

Good looking 125 You found Ron.
You don't usually find them that clean.
I would mix up some fuel at 16-1 for
some good lube. Prime down the carb
with some mix, Add a tad more oil and
run it. She should be ok.



Lee

Thanks, I'll do that. It will have to wait though as I have a lot of mowing to do. Too bad the yard didn't take a vacation last week.

Now if I could just find a PM850 in equal shape for the same money. :msp_smile: Ron

 

[Ambull]

I've got a large frame McCulloch 24" hardnose and a loop of .404 that I may part with. It'd work fine on your S-250. I believe it's .058G however, so when it's time to replace the chain you'll have to either look for .404/.058G chain or convert the saw to 3/8" pitch and run common 3/8-.058G chain. PM me if you're interested...

Hey Aaron I have a spool of NOS McCulloch .404/.058 chain semi-chisel. I am willing to part with a few loops if you get in a bind. Some places can open up the rails on a .058 bar to .063. I know Saw King has a machine to do it.

 

[cpr]

Great stuff Ron! I sure do love me some 7.5ci McCulloch.

 

[Eccentric]

Hey Aaron I have a spool of NOS McCulloch .404/.058 chain semi-chisel. I am willing to part with a few loops if you get in a bind. Some places can open up the rails on a .058 bar to .063. I know Saw King has a machine to do it.

Good to hear JP. I have a few .058G bars that I'd like to run .404 on rather than 3/8". Nice to have a couple options.

 

[heimannm]

I picked up a couple of boxes of Windsor .404/.058 in my big haul a few weeks back. I haven't even opened the boxes yet to see what cutter type they are.

I also have about 75' of .404/.050 Oregon with the bumpers, don't remember if it is semi or chipper.

.404/.063 is still pretty easy to get from Baileys.

Mark

 

[Ambull]

For all you guys looking for a 797 super, there is a frankensaw 797 that is up on the bay. Might go pretty cheap, since it is a frankensaw.....

Vintage 1969 McCulloch Super 797 CHAINSAW No Bar Chain BIG 123cc Muscle Saw WOW | eBay

 

[psuiewalsh]

Hey Aaron I have a spool of NOS McCulloch .404/.058 chain semi-chisel. I am willing to part with a few loops if you get in a bind. Some places can open up the rails on a .058 bar to .063. I know Saw King has a machine to do it.

Aaron and I are trying to work a trade for his bar(s) which seems to both be .063. I do have a question on the chain adjuster holes though as his bars have two holes on each side and mine has one oblong hole on each side.

 

[Ambull]

I found that video where Saw King talks about opening up the bar rails:

[video=youtube;IxpyRkjthXA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxpyRkjthXA[/video]

 

[Eccentric]

I picked up a couple of boxes of Windsor .404/.058 in my big haul a few weeks back. I haven't even opened the boxes yet to see what cutter type they are.

I also have about 75' of .404/.050 Oregon with the bumpers, don't remember if it is semi or chipper.

.404/.063 is still pretty easy to get from Baileys.

Mark

.404-.063 is indeed redily available still. I know I'll be contacting Mark or JP about .404-.058G chain sometime down the road.

Aaron and I are trying to work a trade for his bar(s) which seems to both be .063. I do have a question on the chain adjuster holes though as his bars have two holes on each side and mine has one oblong hole on each side.

Keith I answered your question about the bars in an email today. Both came to me on McCulloch chainsaws, and both adjust and oil fine. They are both minor variations of the earlier style large frame McCulloch bar mount/oiler pattern. The later style looks like an enlarged 10-series McCulloch bar tail. On the saws, only the inner bar plate was changed. The adjuster setup in the clutch cover, and the bar pad portion of the oil tank (or fuel tank, depending on saw) casting are identical. The only real change on the saws was the replacement of the "super early" thumbnail cut and "big head" screw bar adjuster setup (which was on the EARLY saws of the series such as the D-30 and D-36) with the clutch cover mounted adjuster setup that we see on the majority of the large frame McCulloch saws. I'm putting together a writeup (another 'disertation' of mine) covering this subject for the McCulloch thread. I sent you a draft of it, and will post up the 'finished product' here soon with pics. it covers the three different oiler/adjuster hole/slot configurations I've seen on large frame McCullochs, the two different bar plate styles (changes in oiler slot size and location) and what works with what.....


Keith I see you mentioned that you have the oblong adjuster/oiler holes on your bar. That's the "enlarged 10-series" style I was refering to. Most likely you have the later style inner bar plate. That means you'll either need an earlier inner bar plate, or I'll have to slightly modify my bar to work on your saw. That entails a slot cut between the adjuster holes and the oiler holes on the bar. It only needs to be cut on the bar pad side of the bar (top left if you're holding the bar straight away from your face and are looking down the length of the bar) as this is the part that sits against the oiler well on the saws. Many bars made for these saws have this slot already, including my Cannon RN bar. Pics will make this easier to understand....

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Does anybody know what would be a reasonable price for a 1-63? I have a neighbor that's trying to sell his and he asked me what he should ask for it. It is a fairly nice saw, hasn't been run in awhile. It's not gonna be on ebay, he is trying to sell it to another neighbor and I told him I'd try to look it up for him. He doesn't have a computer.