McCulloch Chain Saws

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Update joey, i pulled the starter cord now that the saw cooled down and it fired, that nova chip has to be thermally protected, its getting to hot where it is.

are you going to move it to a different location that will allow it to stay cooler? it will hopefully also prevent the mysterious "too close to the coil failure"
 
I dont care what you guys say, i still like the mini macs!:msp_thumbup:

I got that idle screw in, its a little off the mark but looks like its working. Worst case scenario I can probably shimmy the carb around a bit to give me more adjustment. I cut down the H and L adjustment screws as well. Im going to go put some fuel in this thing and see where im at, after its working ill start looking for the manly saws you guys are talking about.:hmm3grin2orange:

P.S. tinkereing is changing a spark plug and adjusting a chain......give me a lil more credit then that haha:rock:

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i might have the oem bar for you... picked it up today...
 
5 new McCs in the collection, 10-10 1-70 33 2x D44 (and 3 minis, but they don't count), film footage tonight when I get home.
 
There have been other posts on the forum on this topic.

The Nova modules when used in older saws seem to (1) Not like it too close to the coil (I suspect because of magnetic field fluctuations) and (2) be sensitive to heat.

I seem to remember folks having the best overall success mounted them as far as they could from the coil and I don't know that these are necessarily restrictred to an under-the-coil location.

I can't remember lunch yesterday, but I can remember this stuff!
 
i wonder for a heat problem if you put some of the insulating paste they use to mount behind the thickfilm modules on the ford distributors. just a thought.
 
I was out at the local dealer and was looking around at the bone yard and there was a mint pro mac 10-10 and two 850s. long story short got them for free and working on the 10-10,Just a coil and boom another one was saved.
 
Time for some McPics of yesterday's score.

Here's a good sized trunk full:

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The 33, good compression, looks complete:

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MiniMacs! (2 Eager Beavers, and a Mac 10 actually.) What's with the Disston branded bars on Macs? Saw a pic of one the other day, and now this one:

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10-10, mostly complete, minus air filter and broken off oiler button. Compression seems on the low side, but probably will run.

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More to come, stay tuned.
 
D-44, complete, strong compression:

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2nd (believed to be) D44 - Do the 44/55 saws not have the numbers stamped on the bottom of the block like the supers and the 1- series? Neither of these 44s has any numbers stamped on them that I can find?????

This one is mostly complete, minus air fiter and cover. Pretty good compression too:

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1-70, complete. Compression is good.

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Also, got two manuals for the D-44, one dated from 56, the other from 57, and an IPL for it as well, along with a MM120-130 manual.
 
You did very well Steve! Those are both indeed D-44's. They're the only top tank direct drive Macs to use those two little individual brackets for the handlebar. The Super-44 and all later top tank Macs used the one piece bracket like what's on your 1-70. Sometimes they didn't stamp any useful numbers on the block. Many Super 250's are that way. My 790 has nothing but gibberish stamped on it too.

That 10-10 will be pretty once you clean it up. Looks to be a protective layer of scum on top of very nice paint. When I get saws like that, I wipe 'em down with a mixture of 2/3 Kerosene and 1/3 ATF. Sometimes I use WD-40 instead of the Kerosene. Oils them down, cleans them, and prevents corrosion. Scrub off any 'white death' with an oiled skotch brite type kitchen scrubber, or use some oiled sandpaper on spots where the corrosion is really coming up.



Now Fir where are the PM10-10 and PM850 pics?????:D
 
I forgot about this thread so i posted in the open chainsaw forum. Got this big mac 2 man but im not sure what model it is. It is in decent shape and its not locked up. i am thinking its either a 5-49 0r a 7-55. any ideas?


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