McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's

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My MiniMac 110 is Dead...

circa 1986, this little saw was given to me by a friend who said, "Edwin, it's all yours if you can get it to run. It has no spark."

He's right. I've checked it several times with a jumper. Plug is OK and the plug connnector wire is in good shape. In fact, the whole saw looks to be in fine shape, a factory reconditioned masterpiece no less. I doubt that my friend ran it very much--maybe never. Compression seems fine. Clutch and chainbrake all in good shape. The bar still has good paint on it.

My first suspect is the ignition coil and lamination assembly, part #84957, but I'm not used to taking these little babies apart to get to it. So, I need some help. (1) How do you pull the engine in order to get to the coil (two front screws, etc.), (2) Can the coil be meter checked either before I remove the powerhead assembly or after, and (3) Where do I find a replacement coil, assuming that's the culprit?

Guys, this thread thus far has been truly marvelous. I'd love to resurrect this little fellow although every Stihl and Husky owner has told me that it's a fruitless adventure. TIA.
 
circa 1986, this little saw was given to me by a friend who said, "Edwin, it's all yours if you can get it to run. It has no spark."

He's right. I've checked it several times with a jumper. Plug is OK and the plug connnector wire is in good shape. In fact, the whole saw looks to be in fine shape, a factory reconditioned masterpiece no less. I doubt that my friend ran it very much--maybe never. Compression seems fine. Clutch and chainbrake all in good shape. The bar still has good paint on it.

My first suspect is the ignition coil and lamination assembly, part #84957, but I'm not used to taking these little babies apart to get to it. So, I need some help. (1) How do you pull the engine in order to get to the coil (two front screws, etc.), (2) Can the coil be meter checked either before I remove the powerhead assembly or after, and (3) Where do I find a replacement coil, assuming that's the culprit?

Guys, this thread thus far has been truly marvelous. I'd love to resurrect this little fellow although every Stihl and Husky owner has told me that it's a fruitless adventure. TIA.

That mini is a points saw, not electronic ignition! I dont think your coil is bad but regardless the whole saw has to come apart to get to the points etc anyway. Its not all that difficult. The three main screws that hold the case to the engine are as follows, underneath the saw, on top next to the handle/trigger and under the airfilter cover. Just break the whole saw down and make sure you take the choke lever off too!
 
circa 1986, this little saw was given to me by a friend who said, "Edwin, it's all yours if you can get it to run. It has no spark."

He's right. I've checked it several times with a jumper. Plug is OK and the plug connnector wire is in good shape. In fact, the whole saw looks to be in fine shape, a factory reconditioned masterpiece no less. I doubt that my friend ran it very much--maybe never. Compression seems fine. Clutch and chainbrake all in good shape. The bar still has good paint on it.

My first suspect is the ignition coil and lamination assembly, part #84957, but I'm not used to taking these little babies apart to get to it. So, I need some help. (1) How do you pull the engine in order to get to the coil (two front screws, etc.), (2) Can the coil be meter checked either before I remove the powerhead assembly or after, and (3) Where do I find a replacement coil, assuming that's the culprit?

Guys, this thread thus far has been truly marvelous. I'd love to resurrect this little fellow although every Stihl and Husky owner has told me that it's a fruitless adventure. TIA.
Here is a very helpful video for the mini mac on disasimbly.I take no credit for this video. The chainsaw guy takes the McCulloch Mini Mac Chainsaw Challenge 9 23.AVI - YouTube If it is the electronic coil then it could have very well gone out, from what i have heard is that they were prone to failing. hope this will help.:cheers:
 
Holy Cow!

Thank you. This video explains precisely why I was told that I was wandering into a jungle to replace the coil and make this saw run again. It's a mechanic's nightmare and impossible to fix for less than the original purchase price of $85 unless you are a hobbyist looking for something to do with your time and love old Macs. No professional repair shop around here wants to fool with them. They know that it would cost more to save them than the original price--maybe even twice the original price.

Now, can you imagine doing what this man did on this video and, after replacing that coil, you then discover after putting the whole saw back together again that the coil was not the problem?

As an option, I could probably buy a non-running Stihl 192 for $50, fix it, and save at least two days of work. I think my best bet is to pack this saw into a box, send it to Dennis, and then let him take it from there.
 
Thank you. This video explains precisely why I was told that I was wandering into a jungle to replace the coil and make this saw run again. It's a mechanic's nightmare and impossible to fix for less than the original purchase price of $85 unless you are a hobbyist looking for something to do with your time and love old Macs. No professional repair shop around here wants to fool with them. They know that it would cost more to save them than the original price--maybe even twice the original price.

Now, can you imagine doing what this man did on this video and, after replacing that coil, you then discover after putting the whole saw back together again that the coil was not the problem?

As an option, I could probably buy a non-running Stihl 192 for $50, fix it, and save at least two days of work. I think my best bet is to pack this saw into a box, send it to Dennis, and then let him take it from there.

It aint that bad, if you like a challenge.:wink2:
 
Thank you. This video explains precisely why I was told that I was wandering into a jungle to replace the coil and make this saw run again. It's a mechanic's nightmare and impossible to fix for less than the original purchase price of $85 unless you are a hobbyist looking for something to do with your time and love old Macs. No professional repair shop around here wants to fool with them. They know that it would cost more to save them than the original price--maybe even twice the original price.

Now, can you imagine doing what this man did on this video and, after replacing that coil, you then discover after putting the whole saw back together again that the coil was not the problem?

As an option, I could probably buy a non-running Stihl 192 for $50, fix it, and save at least two days of work. I think my best bet is to pack this saw into a box, send it to Dennis, and then let him take it from there.

$85? Nahhhh.......listen, buy a $10 nova electronic chip to replace the points. See what happens after you replace that:D
 
It ain't that bad, if you like a challenge.:wink2:

Perhaps, but what do you have on board, even if by some miracle that you are successful? The way I look at it, the MiniMac 110s were never designed to be repaired by the buyers. You used them until they dropped and then threw them away. I recall buying one back in 1977 for $80. It lasted 5 years and stopped dead. Engine was shot. The Mac dealer wanted $120 to fix it. A new Eager Beaver was the same amount of money. A 3514 or 3516 was $30 less than his repair quote.

So I bought a 3514 and later fixed the chainbrake handle with my own design:

mac-1.jpg


It runs today.
 
Interesting chainbrake design and Mcc that reminds me I have to get you some pics of my next 3200 series tear down.

If you search back a bunch of pages i posted some of the last one i fixed for the meantime.
 
Perhaps, but what do you have on board, even if by some miracle that you are successful? The way I look at it, the MiniMac 110s were never designed to be repaired by the buyers. You used them until they dropped and then threw them away. I recall buying one back in 1977 for $80. It lasted 5 years and stopped dead. Engine was shot. The Mac dealer wanted $120 to fix it. A new Eager Beaver was the same amount of money. A 3514 or 3516 was $30 less than his repair quote.

So I bought a 3514 and later fixed the chainbrake handle with my own design:

mac-1.jpg


It runs today.
I just enjoy the challenge of making something old run again.:chainsaw: I like your'e scabbard and the chain brake. Is that a wrench on the scabbard?

That sounds good dennis.
 
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Not sold! It's back up.

$25

Also, if someone wants to get just certain items from the pics, let me know.

I was trying to do a deal for all the stuff but shipping was $72 to NY and will be higher to the west coast. There is a lot of weight in all those minis.
 
Also, if someone wants to get just certain items from the pics, let me know.

I was trying to do a deal for all the stuff but shipping was $72 to NY and will be higher to the west coast. There is a lot of weight in all those minis.

what about shipping to texas?:msp_biggrin:
 
Joey are those attempted fixes in that box of engine parts? Looks like you found mini's and just tore em all down and seperated the parts.

I would need carbs or coils so id just take the saw completely down. I kept all the parts regardless if they were good or not. There are only two carbs left in the whole pile.
 
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