MS200T clutch side crank seal question

[MattG]

That's a nasty little typo isn't it.

http://www.dlsmallplant.co.uk/pressure-sleeve-from-stihl-special-tools-range-1129-893-2400/

The right one just looks like a heavy wall tube.

If it's any consolation you now have the correct press sleeve to work on 017, 018, 019t, 021/23/25 and MS170, 171, 180, 181, 190t, 191t, 210/230/250 & 211 if you ever need to.

Yeah, you're right about the typo. Never mind, this kind of thing happens all the time.

Since I've got the seals I'm going to make do with using a 15mm long reach socket, but this time I'll place an old 200t seal reversed between the socket end and the new seal. At least that will distribute the force from the socket better. And use a smaller hammer... and be more patient...

 

[MattG]

Phew! I just got the bakelite seals installed. I was lucky to discover in my garage a fat washer - 12mm inner dia. and 30mm outer dia (I'm glad I don't throw old stuff away). This was almost perfect to bear up on to the seal face and foul onto the housing/lugs to prevent inserting too deep. I also found if I placed the wrong press sleeve (1123 893 2400) a certain way round, it's inner bore was a snug fit on the crank (clutch side) and that helped to keep the tapping force central. I also used a small 8oz hammer which I guess kept things pretty calm.

I spent ages on the job, including all the time I spent messing with my crazy vice/wood-block jig system I reckon I spent nearly an hour and a half on both sides.

The seals look alright from outside (fingers crossed that they good at the lips). I'm useless with pics, but maybe when wife gets back from work, we'll get some up. I'm now looking to change the intake boot and piston with new parts I got.

As usual, thanks for again to all you folks for your help and words!
Matt

 

[lone wolf]

Keep posting. Now you going to vac test?

 

[MattG]

Keep posting. Now you going to vac test?

I've not got any equipment to vac test. I'm just praying that the seals lips will seal ok. I did spend a long while on them, and didn't have any bad moments. Perhaps at some stage I'll get a vacuum gauge. Unfortunately I've got so many things going on right now, so I can't spend that much time playing with saws!

I've got to say getting the cylinder over the new piston+rings was tricky, no special tool! - just the wife to help! And getting the old and twisted ignition lead back through was challenging, so I'm hoping I've still got a spark when I need it.

Where I'm at now with the saw, is the tank house, tensioner, flywheel, muffler, ignition stuff are back on. The next tricky tasks will be transferring the handlebar to a new handle housing (old one has broken fast idle position, and is generally dead), and rebuilding the carb (I got new diaphrams and inlet needle). Since I've loads of other stuff on, it'll probably be in a few days...

 

[lone wolf]

I've not got any equipment to vac test. I'm just praying that the seals lips will seal ok. I did spend a long while on them, and didn't have any bad moments. Perhaps at some stage I'll get a vacuum gauge. Unfortunately I've got so many things going on right now, so I can't spend that much time playing with saws!

I've got to say getting the cylinder over the new piston+rings was tricky, no special tool! - just the wife to help! And getting the old and twisted ignition lead back through was challenging, so I'm hoping I've still got a spark when I need it.

Where I'm at now with the saw, is the tank house, tensioner, flywheel, muffler, ignition stuff are back on. The next tricky tasks will be transferring the handlebar to a new handle housing (old one has broken fast idle position, and is generally dead), and rebuilding the carb (I got new diaphrams and inlet needle). Since I've loads of other stuff on, it'll probably be in a few days...

Let me know if you need help with the handle there are a few tricks to it.

 

[MattG]

Let me know if you need help with the handle there are a few tricks to it.

Yeah, I will - maybe in a few hours. I'm at work now, but I might have a quick look for an hour or so this evening at the old one.

 

[MattG]

Just got back home. I can't spend too long this evening. (Have to go swimming later). Just taken off the master control lever. It was a bit stuck.

The manual now says "remove handle mounting, careful throttle and interlock lever may pop out".

Any tips?

 

[lone wolf]

Just got back home. I can't spend too long this evening. (Have to go swimming later). Just taken off the master control lever. It was a bit stuck.

The manual now says "remove handle mounting, careful throttle and interlock lever may pop out".

Any tips?

Take a picture before you mess with it dont worry i can put it all back together piece by piece if you screw up. What are you doing exactly removing one off another saw to use on the fixed one? Where are we at is it still in one piece?

 

[MattG]

Anyway I got the handle molding off, without hassle. See pic.



Tomorrow, I pull out link and rods etc... oh I see I've an alert..

 

[lone wolf]

Anyway I got the handle molding off, without hassle. See pic.

View attachment 432086

Tomorrow, I pull out link and rods etc... oh I see I've an alert..

Why are you pulling the parts out ? Are you repairing one ? Explain what you are trying to do?

 

[MattG]

Take a picture before you mess with it dont worry i can put it all back together piece by piece if you screw up. What are you doing exactly removing one off another saw to use on the fixed one? Where are we at is it still in one piece?

I want the loop handle away from the top handle thing. 'Cos I've got a new top handle... But I'll finish it another day, I think. It does n't look too hard.

 

[lone wolf]

I want the loop handle away from the top handle thing. 'Cos I've got a new top handle... But I'll finish it another day, I think. It does n't look too hard.

It aint hard if you are careful and dont loss track of what you are doing. You cant mess up if you have that pic. So you need to get the side handle off then right?

 

[MattG]

The fast idle / half choke position is broke on old top handle. I got a whole new top handle somewhere

 

[lone wolf]

The fast idle / half choke position is broke on old top handle. I got a whole new top handle somewhere

Its prob just that one piece at the top right that . The white cam type shaft take that out first and check what it mates to before you rip all the rods out.

 

[MattG]

It aint hard if you are careful and dont loss track of what you are doing. You cant mess up if you have that pic. So you need to get the side handle off then right?

Yeah man, just the side loop thing.

 

[lone wolf]

Yeah man, just the side loop thing.

Side handle.

 

[MattG]

Side handle.

Yup. Anyway, I've gotta to go. Talk later. I'll postback in a day or so.

thanks again for help!
Matt

(I'll compare at the new and old ones soon - like you say lone wolf it's prob the switch/shaft/cam/thing. I really must go now!)

 

[MattG]

Sorry I was in a rush yesterday evening. The full story is that the original saw (broken from ebay) had the following fault: the master control lever won't select the half choke (or fast idle) position. In other words the position between "full choke" and "running/on".

(Basically, after selecting full choke with the levers depressed, when you then, with levers released, try to move the master control to half choke, it just advances straight to running/on. No matter how slowly/carefully you proceed. I'm guessing the last guy just wore out the part which locks the lever in this position - or put it back together wrong).

Being the amateurs that we are, me and the wife decided it would be more time saving just to buy a whole new top handle housing and swap that over. The slight problem, with that approach, we now see is that a certain amount of dismantling is needed to transfer the old side handle onto the new top handle housing. Anyway, I've got the manual and as long as I remember how things come apart, it should not be toohard.

And of course the clever thing to do now is to grab the new housing and take off the side of it, and compare it's workings to the broken one photographed in post #149. Then I just might figure out what's wrong with the old one....

 

[angelo c]

Sorry I was in a rush yesterday evening. The full story is that the original saw (broken from ebay) had the following fault: the master control lever won't select the half choke (or fast idle) position. In other words the position between "full choke" and "running/on".

(Basically, after selecting full choke with the levers depressed, when you then, with levers released, try to move the master control to half choke, it just advances straight to running/on. No matter how slowly/carefully you proceed. I'm guessing the last guy just wore out the part which locks the lever in this position - or put it back together wrong).

Being the amateurs that we are, me and the wife decided it would be more time saving just to buy a whole new top handle housing and swap that over. The slight problem, with that approach, we now see is that a certain amount of dismantling is needed to transfer the old side handle onto the new top handle housing. Anyway, I've got the manual and as long as I remember how things come apart, it should not be toohard.

And of course the clever thing to do now is to grab the new housing and take off the side of it, and compare it's workings to the broken one photographed in post #149. Then I just might figure out what's wrong with the old one....

What does it do ( lever-controls) with the throttle and safety depressed ?

 

[MattG]

What does it do ( lever-controls) with the throttle and safety depressed ?

I can't quite remember. (I'm at work now so can't check). I think it does the same - i.e. goes straight from fullchoke to running.