MS200T clutch side crank seal question

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This is my carb...
20150627_173552.jpg
so, yeah, I'll see how we go with a carb clean, pray my crank seal + piston change was good, then cry out for help if still stuck!!!
 
Anyway, I'll see if I can get the carb cleaner, tomorrow... but now.. the take-out kebabs are here... it's tea-time!!!!

:barbecue:
 
So I did drive into halfords in Huntingdon and get some wynns carb cleaner. And yes, it was halfords prices - seven quid. I strippht ed the carb and changed the meter and pump diaphram. I blasted all I could with the cleaner, including the holes where the H and L screws go. I had to remove that mad limiter cap, so the H screw is now at 1 turn out (I think that corresponds with "basic setting").

Was going to change needle, but the old one looked ok. Also I noted that the old one looks like it's cone is a made of some slightly different material than the new one, so I thought it may be best to not change it. The new needle looks like it's steel but the old one kind of darker material (rubber???). I've done a piccie, with the older one (which I put back in) on the right...

20150628_130938.jpg

Have to say that the carb didn't actually seem that dirty. Now putting it back on soon.

I also wondered about the gap setting for the ignition module. I did measure it with a car feeler gauge before disassembly, and got the gap to be about 0.28mm. Things is , I've forgotten exactly how I measured it. I know I'd got the flywheel with the N S marks next to the module, but now I've forgotten whether I had the gauge between the wheel and the raised bit of the module, OR between the wheel and the flat/smooth main body of the module. Does the 0.28mm gap between the raised bit of module and smooth surface of N S part of the wheel seem ok?

thanks
Matt
 
Anyway, I'll see if I can get the carb cleaner, tomorrow... but now.. the take-out kebabs are here... it's tea-time!!!!

:barbecue:
Is it 6;30
So I did drive into halfords in Huntingdon and get some wynns carb cleaner. And yes, it was halfords prices - seven quid. I strippht ed the carb and changed the meter and pump diaphram. I blasted all I could with the cleaner, including the holes where the H and L screws go. I had to remove that mad limiter cap, so the H screw is now at 1 turn out (I think that corresponds with "basic setting").

Was going to change needle, but the old one looked ok. Also I noted that the old one looks like it's cone is a made of some slightly different material than the new one, so I thought it may be best to not change it. The new needle looks like it's steel but the old one kind of darker material (rubber???). I've done a piccie, with the older one (which I put back in) on the right...

View attachment 432964

Have to say that the carb didn't actually seem that dirty. Now putting it back on soon.

I also wondered about the gap setting for the ignition module. I did measure it with a car feeler gauge before disassembly, and got the gap to be about 0.28mm. Things is , I've forgotten exactly how I measured it. I know I'd got the flywheel with the N S marks next to the module, but now I've forgotten whether I had the gauge between the wheel and the raised bit of the module, OR between the wheel and the flat/smooth main body of the module. Does the 0.28mm gap between the raised bit of module and smooth surface of N S part of the wheel seem ok?

thanks
Matt
The needles can be a different color as long as the size is right it will work.
I just use a business card to gap the coil. That always works on them.
When are you starting it up soon?
 
Is it 6;30

The needles can be a different color as long as the size is right it will work.
I just use a business card to gap the coil. That always works on them.
When are you starting it up soon?

It's 3.10pm in uk...

So for the gap, should I just loose the ig mod screws, move it to the left, slot in a card, move mod to right, then tighten back? And all is good?

As for trying to start up, maybe later today, but probably monday or later in week... don't want to rush it!
 
It's 3.10pm in uk...

So for the gap, should I just loose the ig mod screws, move it to the left, slot in a card, move mod to right, then tighten back? And all is good?

As for trying to start up, maybe later today, but probably monday or later in week... don't want to rush it!
Turn the flywheel so the magnets are not pulling in.
Move the coil to the left further from the flywheel, then tighten screws.
Then line up the magnets and put the business card between.
Then loosen the screws and let the magnets pull the coil closer and the card will gap it right.
Tighten screws and pull card out.
 
Turn the flywheel so the magnets are not pulling in.
Move the coil to the left further from the flywheel, then tighten screws.
Then line up the magnets and put the business card between.
Then loosen the screws and let the magnets pull the coil closer and the card will gap it right.
Tighten screws and pull card out.
Cheers, thanks.

Currently stuck with the carb. The fuel is in, the throttle rod in, but the choke rod is being a pig. Should I retract the carb a little or twist the choke rod a bit? Help!
 
Cheers, thanks.

Currently stuck with the carb. The fuel is in, the throttle rod in, but the choke rod is being a pig. Should I retract the carb a little or twist the choke rod a bit? Help!
What do you mean? The carb wont go on and the choke rod jammed? Could be the position of the master control put it on run not choke.
 
sorry lone wolf I forgot which hole on the shaft I should the rod, the front or back one. The manual is confusing me, I'll get a piccie in a couiple mins....
 
So I've got the rod in through the hole on the shaft that the spring hooks over (the manual however shows it on the other hole... or so it seems??).

This is what I,ve done so far, does it look like the correct hole:

20150628_154325.jpg

Also this view:
20150628_153946.jpg

As usual, thanks a million!
 
Sorry Lone wolf I saw a youtube vid



at about 16:00 mins, he explains it.

I've got it into the wrong hole. :(

Just re-tried - done it right now! Woo-Hoo!

(Sorry to keep bugging you).
 
So I've got the rod in through the hole on the shaft that the spring hooks over (the manual however shows it on the other hole... or so it seems??).

This is what I,ve done so far, does it look like the correct hole:

View attachment 432965

Also this view:
View attachment 432966

As usual, thanks a million!
Just put the choke on and off and see if it works.
Now I got to ask did you remember to put the impulse line on the underside of the handle-airbox assembly?
 
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