Yes, as main bearings get lubed while running this would get clutch bearing. But this is where I'm leaking all pressure or vacuum on test.
Some partner cranks had this small hole drilled - for lubricating the clutch bearing with mix oil separatet from the mixYes, not a chainsaw but helping a guy with a K950. Didn't run right so cleaned carb (no Kit) and didn't change . Figured I'll get a kit and while down do a P/V test. Didn't hold either and could not find leak. Found it to be the clutch bearing lube hole. Back together and no different. Does it need a new bearing and clutch drum or doesn't it matter? Thanks,David
I have had this on the main page for a couple of days and had no responses. I thought maybe in here it might get better interest?
I just put a ring on one of my Partner 5000's and decided to check the ring end gap on the old ring. It was more than 35 thousands but that is where my feeler gauges end ! So I was going to pun on a new Caber ring next and decided I would check that as well.
The new Caber looked so tight that I thought the ends were touching, I thought, well this is no good. But before I got too discouraged I thought I would try to measure it. The smallest gauge I have is 2 thousands, and I was sure that would not even fit. Well it did fit,.. and as near as I can tell the new cabers have 8 thousands ring end gap. I know I have read what the optimum ( REG ) should be but I don't remember . What do you think of 8 thousands?
The compression before I put in a new ring was 160# now with new ring in and a cold engine never started yet it reads 182#.
Thanks for the response I actually forgot about this post it has been a while. Well if 3 per one inch then 8 is pretty close I would guess the piston is a little bigger than 2 inches. The saw was together and running long ago so I guess it must be ok. ha haI did a lot of searches on that and came up with this as well as from some good advice.
Ring end gap
.003" per 1" of piston diameter
Boy that runs really nice good job !
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