Pioneer chainsaws

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Sorry Fellas None Of The Above! Another Milestone

I know, a big disappointment for some of you and for that I'm Sorry! I wish I could make you Pioneer dreams come true! But I did have a reminder from our fellow Pioneer buddy Brendon (propliner) that we were approaching the 200 page mark.So Thanks Brendon we made it!

Here we are guy's 200 pages chocked full of everything Pioneer. Pioneer questions,feedback,information,facts,trivia etc.So Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread in one way or another.Thanks to the Pioneer Gurus for all their support!
Now if some of you fellas are holding back jump right on in,we would be happy to have you here.
Again Thanks To All of You! An Thanks To AS For Having This Great Site!:clap:
Lawrence
 
So I have been lightly looking for a primer for my 1120 I got the other day.

This saw is in such awesome shape I really want to be able to run it ocasianally. This saw ran when I got it after a little carb clean in the carb ran so good I put the bar and chain on it and went out to do a few test cuts.

So out to the wood pile for some fun right? Wrong! wouldn't start. Noticed gas leaking out of the primer. Took it apart and sure enough primer is toast butter side down on the floor:cry:

So some body out there must have an acceptable repair idea...

Can i make a primer bulb from something else work? I hope so...
 
Apparently a primer for that type of saw is tough to find... I know. I have heard that a small bulb primer from some of the poulans will work or possibly a trip to the small engine repair shop will get you one that will work until you can get the actual replacement for your saw.
 
Bill Martin

Bill I have a couple of Pioneers that have that primer system on them but in all honesty I have have yet to see if they work properly,I am too busy collecting and no time fixing.I think Jerry (pioneerguy600)said they are very hard to come by,I believe someone said that maybe a primer bulb from another type of small gas engine might work.I'm sure one of the Gurus will be along to help you,Good Luck Bill!
Lawrence
 
I will try to get a pic of this old beauty. It only has a few paint chips missing on the handle and one on the body. The bar paint is still fairly good even. It would be a real shame for this to be a shelf queen due to one lousy part. I'm going to keep pokin around for one. I'm going to try to get to my local saw dealer soon.
 
Hotrod 650!

I've had my Pioneer 650 on the chainsaw bench in my basement for almost 2 years. It quit on me as I was getting ready to show the guys at work what it would have been like to run a saw 40 years ago. It sat for a while and a couple years later we had a cold winter with not much to do. I had a couple of saws that needed attention and started fixing them up. There sat the old Pioneer and I decided to fix that one too. As I got to the points, I figured "what the heck! I'll see if I can make this thing RUN!"
Well, I got busy and there it still sits. I keep meaning to get down there and finish it up, but I haven't gotten back to it yet. I started a thread with pics on "Saw Building 101" and get hits on it from time to time. Today I got a request to make it more accessible to the rest of the Pioneer fans here. So here it is http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=63491

Maybe now I'll feel a little more motivated to get my ass down there and get it done!
 
I've had my Pioneer 650 on the chainsaw bench in my basement for almost 2 years. It quit on me as I was getting ready to show the guys at work what it would have been like to run a saw 40 years ago. It sat for a while and a couple years later we had a cold winter with not much to do. I had a couple of saws that needed attention and started fixing them up. There sat the old Pioneer and I decided to fix that one too. As I got to the points, I figured "what the heck! I'll see if I can make this thing RUN!"
Well, I got busy and there it still sits. I keep meaning to get down there and finish it up, but I haven't gotten back to it yet. I started a thread with pics on "Saw Building 101" and get hits on it from time to time. Today I got a request to make it more accessible to the rest of the Pioneer fans here. So here it is http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=63491

Maybe now I'll feel a little more motivated to get my ass down there and get it done!

Good idea ive got a 650 im prepared to have a play with
Keep us updated
 
HI guys I apoligize if im hijacking somebodys thread but i have a quick question. Could someone tell me the difference between a 1074, p20, p25, 970 p28 etc . The only info i have says they are all the same cc's so if the internals are the same ,what changes?
 
HI guys I apoligize if im hijacking somebodys thread but i have a quick question. Could someone tell me the difference between a 1074, p20, p25, 970 p28 etc . The only info i have says they are all the same cc's so if the internals are the same ,what changes?

Have you tried reading Mike Acres site yet? Check out chainsaw collectors site, lots of info on the Pioneers over there.
Pioneerguy600
 
HI guys I apoligize if im hijacking somebodys thread but i have a quick question. Could someone tell me the difference between a 1074, p20, p25, 970 p28 etc . The only info i have says they are all the same cc's so if the internals are the same ,what changes?

There were differences in the air filter systems, the P26, P28 and 1074 had a different one than the others, the mufflers were different on some, chain tensioning system on the 970, starter cover on some P26's, bar cover on others, anti-vibe on many of the P28's. Somewhere in between they switched to a .325 chain rather than 3/8". You need to compare IPL's to see the differences.
Overall, they shared so many of the same parts that one tends to think that a lot of it was a marketing ploy.
 
Pioneer 1074

hi,

I Have a question. If I start my Pioneer 1074 after it's a while it turned (a few days or so) it has trouble starting. It starts almost direct, but it won't stay turning. If I stay pulling the throttle, it stays turning, but it won't come on the normal rotation speed. After like 20 seconds, it comes on the normal speed. After that it's all OK. The power of the machine is excellent. I wonder what the issue could be while starting.
 
hi,

I Have a question. If I start my Pioneer 1074 after it's a while it turned (a few days or so) it has trouble starting. It starts almost direct, but it won't stay turning. If I stay pulling the throttle, it stays turning, but it won't come on the normal rotation speed. After like 20 seconds, it comes on the normal speed. After that it's all OK. The power of the machine is excellent. I wonder what the issue could be while starting.

I would think that is a fuel related issue, the saw acts just like that when the filter in the tank goes bad,if it is the felt kind they get hard,screened ones get plugged up. Sometimes the fuel line gets too soft and will collapse under suction and not allow fuel through but I would check both as a first step. Make sure the air filter is clean and not blocked with oil and saw dust, wash it with dish detergent in real hot water, blot excess water out with a towel or paper towel, let air dry.If they are not the problem then check the carb, a real good carb cleaning and a new carb kit works wonders on these older saws. Since the saw will reach full throttle after a lot of coaxing then I think its just fuel related.
Pioneerguy600
 
pioneer 1074

Thanks for the advice! My dad mixes his own fuel. (He has a stihl 034AV and an oleo mac 251B) and added a little grafith oil to the mixture (does it now and than), it does wonders for his saws!!! So the problem might be in that.

Thanks,

Silver_pigeon
 
Dad's old saw

YES that is a 620 Super and welcome over to the official Pioneer thread.
Pioneerguy600

Hi from the Emerald Isle...that's a picture of what I'd like my dad's old saw to end up like...I remember many happy days cutting firewood and loading the landrover from my childhood , so now I want to restore his old S620.

I've got it running well but the bar is bent/warped and bends when cutting: In uk people are asking is it an 8.2mm slot or 9.5mm and is it a ko95 bar or D007....it's all Greek to me...the bar is 28" - 30" depending how you measure it...where do I get a replacement and what do I ask for? And what is the chain spec?

Ta

Andy
 
Hi from the Emerald Isle...that's a picture of what I'd like my dad's old saw to end up like...I remember many happy days cutting firewood and loading the landrover from my childhood , so now I want to restore his old S620.

I've got it running well but the bar is bent/warped and bends when cutting: In uk people are asking is it an 8.2mm slot or 9.5mm and is it a ko95 bar or D007....it's all Greek to me...the bar is 28" - 30" depending how you measure it...where do I get a replacement and what do I ask for? And what is the chain spec?

Ta

Andy

The K095 bar mount from Oregon bars will work with just a little adaption, the oil deliverey to the chain hole needs to be modified a little and the slot for the chain adjuster may have to be lengthened some also. There is no bar company making a direct fit bar for the Pioneer 600 series saws any more. Once in a while a NOS bar comes up on eBay but you will most likely be bidding against a lot of collector types and usually the price for these bars get quite high. The original chain for the 600 series saws was .404 pitch but they can be changed over to 3/8" pitch by changing the clutch drive sprocket from .404 to 3/8" or what is sometimes refered to as .375 pitch. If you are using a hardnose bar then any pitch chain will fit but if it is a sprocket tip bar then that sprocket has to fit the pitch of chain also.
Pioneerguy600
 
The K095 bar mount from Oregon bars will work with just a little adaption, the oil deliverey to the chain hole needs to be modified a little and the slot for the chain adjuster may have to be lengthened some also. There is no bar company making a direct fit bar for the Pioneer 600 series saws any more. Once in a while a NOS bar comes up on eBay but you will most likely be bidding against a lot of collector types and usually the price for these bars get quite high. The original chain for the 600 series saws was .404 pitch but they can be changed over to 3/8" pitch by changing the clutch drive sprocket from .404 to 3/8" or what is sometimes refered to as .375 pitch. If you are using a hardnose bar then any pitch chain will fit but if it is a sprocket tip bar then that sprocket has to fit the pitch of chain also.
Pioneerguy600

Cheers Jerry

Sorry to sound dumb but what is an NOS bar?....is 28"/30" a standard set up for this saw? What would be the best length Oregon bar to go for...I'll buy the chain as well so should it be a hard nosed bar to save changing the sprocket?

Thanks for your help

Andy
 
D007?

Hi Jerry

I've been offered a 20"Sandvik Windsor Duratip with a hard nose he says it is a "Pioneer mount" but doesn't know if it fits S620. It is a D007 mount....have you come across them?

Cheers
Andy
 
mounting new chord

If you mount an new chord on a pioneer 1074 or P26 there is some kind of mechanism that presses a decompression valve. But I can't seem to get it in place... anyone knows a trick to do this?? A service manual would be welcome here to

Thanks,

Silver_pigeon
 
Cheers Jerry

Sorry to sound dumb but what is an NOS bar?....

Thanks for your help

Andy

NOS means '' new old stock ''. Its a part that is brand new,as in never sold, but might be fifty years old. Been hiding on a shelf or somewhere since new....:cheers:
 
Cheers Jerry

Sorry to sound dumb but what is an NOS bar?....is 28"/30" a standard set up for this saw? What would be the best length Oregon bar to go for...I'll buy the chain as well so should it be a hard nosed bar to save changing the sprocket?

Thanks for your help

Andy

Ok I see the NOS question was answered, the most common bar on the 600 series saws was a 20" hard nosed Durarail bar part #471492. ,although bars from 12" to 36 " were available for them from Pioneer. A hardnosed bar is the better bet asa you can run any pitch chain with it, you just have to determine which gauge the drive links are, there was quite a few different gauges used back then but your new bar will have that gauge stamped in it, modern gauges are most likely .050 , .058 or .063. Check your bar and get the chain to match, the drive sprocket will handle all guages. I have not used a d007 mount on the 600 series saws, the tail end where it mounts on the studs were too narrow on the bars I tried and would have problems with the chain staying on and with oil getting to the bar. I prefer to find NOS bars and have been lucky in doing so. Check out old repair shops and watch eBay, they come up quite often, even a shorter NOS bar would be preferable compared to a modern made bar as the newer bars look too skinny on an old magnesium beast. LOL.
Pioneerguy600
 
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