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pioneerguy600 said:
If you can find a Hastings Piston Ring dealer they have rings in that size. Try part no. 8207

Pioneerguy600
Click to expand...

P62 said:
I purchased a set of Hastings rings a few years ago. Just took the Hastings part number to a local automotive supply and they ordered them from Hastings. Had them in a few days. Price was right.
The Hastings link is:
Manufacturer of Hastings piston rings including Flex-Vent oil rings, compression rings and Hastings racing rings. Chain Saws&AddText=(Listed by Cylinder Diameter)
Click to expand...


Thanks for the help gentlemen! I'll see where I can get Hastings rings locally.

P62,
Where are you in ON?
 
Here's the 700D. It is a nice as I had hoped. Pulled out a 36" roller nose for this one. Saw popped right off with the some fuel thru the carby. Other than being quite faded, the paint is in much better shape than my 850. The saw came with a home-made spike but I had an OEM one from my 750.

I find in interesting this saw is ungoverned in contrast to the next generation 750/850 with vane governors. The differences between the series are minor. Notice the steel shield around the bar mount and clutch/drum. Sort of funnels the woodchips.

A little birdy has told me that carb kits may become available for the OMCs in the next month or so.

Chris B.

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Hey guys,

I will be getting my first Pioneer in the mail this week!


It's a Farmsaw. The saws recoil is said to be "slipping, or something" I've done my research, and am pretty sure it's going to need the darned yoke spring. So, I am looking to you guys for help in sourcing one/or more of these.

Has anyone come up with a more solid fix for these recoils?

I also know that the coils have a tendency to be weak, are there aftermarket coils available that aren't so faulty?

Can any of you guys put into terms how weak the recoil actually is, like am I only going to get 20 pulls out of it or something?



Once fixed is there any way I can get some longevity out of it.....other than putting the saw up on the shelf for the rest of forever?:silly:

CT
 
@ Thieroff
It was close to 5 years of actual when use I caused the starter problem and the coil operated from 1980 until about 3 years ago. I have not definately determined the coil is bad. I have a parts saw with a coil that when spun with a electric drill will spark put will not with the normal pull. I plan to swap coils on that one.

My Pioneer FarmSaw II starter problem (won't engage) was caused by the take up spool not the pinion. The spiral flutes in the second picture should continue to the top. Because they are abraded away the pinion does not engage the engine.

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Wish I could take credit for this but Bob was the thought behind this repair, How to repair your coil. There is some other discussion, I think almost any simple coil affixed to this iron core will work. I have not had the parts to prove my theory.
Farley9n;2450266]Hi Lou! Really nice to hear from you & I do remember your Pioneer and also being my backup wrench on that Homelite carb! The Wildthing is still going strong and got quite a work out at our last GTG. Missed you at the last couple.....Hope all is well!
The first picture is of the Pioneer coil and a laminated frame from a Homelite (the pioneer frame is in the Farmsaw 2)
Second is of a complete Homelite unit and a detached coil
Third is the detached coil slipped over the frame. From here it gets the epoxy, is positioned and shimmed for tightness. It was really a pretty simple fix. ........ Bob


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Missed you at the last couple of GTG's......
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Pioneer 1200

Going to investigate a 1200 a fellow has along with a Homie XL-12.

What do I look for on a 1200 that would be a deal breaker. I.E. parts that are imposible to get? The saw is a non-runner. Could be the usual fuel system deterioration.

T.I.A.
Carl
 
67L36Driver said:
Going to investigate a 1200 a fellow has along with a Homie XL-12.

What do I look for on a 1200 that would be a deal breaker. I.E. parts that are imposible to get? The saw is a non-runner. Could be the usual fuel system deterioration.

T.I.A.
Carl
Click to expand...

Check out the piston and cylinder, if its good then the rest would not be a problem. No spartk would only be dirty/worn points or bad condenser at worst or just buggered up wireing. Likely would need fuel system gone through and a good cleanup. Body parts are are still out there, lots of used ones around.
Pioneerguy600
 
Thieroff said:
Hey guys,

I will be getting my first Pioneer in the mail this week!


It's a Farmsaw. The saws recoil is said to be "slipping, or something" I've done my research, and am pretty sure it's going to need the darned yoke spring. So, I am looking to you guys for help in sourcing one/or more of these.

Has anyone come up with a more solid fix for these recoils?
Click to expand...


If the saw is working well and you don't have to pull it twenty times to start it, the recoil will last. Not as long as a metal recoil, but it won't wear out in a week.

I had the same issue with mine. I don't know of any better parts to use other than the originals.

The coil is not a huge issue as Lou said, they are still available new from rottmans too, I believe, but they are pricey. There are lots of parts around for a farmsaw, they made millions of them.


chris
 
Make sure the decomp is working too, Chris. It's an automatic thing inside the recoil housing. There is a wire that gets turned and pushes on the decomp when you pull the rope. If you look back through this thread, Jerry has some very good pics of how it works.

That must be working on a Farmsaw or your recoil is not long for this world.

http://www.rottmansales.com/IPLs/Pioneer/Farmsaw_OPT.pdf

Here's an IPL for your farmsaw.

475322 is the decomp.
432130 is the actuator wire which rides on the 429892 gear. After you take off the recoil and look at it for a minute it will all make sense.
 
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daddy66 said:
Make sure the decomp is working too, Chris. It's an automatic thing inside the recoil housing. There is a wire that gets turned and pushes on the decomp when you pull the rope. If you look back through this thread, Jerry has some very good pics of how it works.

That must be working on a Farmsaw or your recoil is not long for this world.

http://www.rottmansales.com/IPLs/Pioneer/Farmsaw_OPT.pdf

Here's an IPL for your farmsaw.

475322 is the decomp.
432130 is the actuator wire which rides on the 429892 gear. After you take off the recoil and look at it for a minute it will all make sense.
Click to expand...

pioneerguy600 said:
Picts of the Farmsaw recoil and their workings are found on page 47 and post numbers 695-696 on this Pioneer saws thread.
Pioneerguy600
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, looks like I might be into the Pioneers next.

You guys have been really helpful, much obliged


CT
 
daddy66 said:
Make sure the decomp is working too, Chris. It's an automatic thing inside the recoil housing. There is a wire that gets turned and pushes on the decomp when you pull the rope. If you look back through this thread, Jerry has some very good pics of how it works.

That must be working on a Farmsaw or your recoil is not long for this world.

http://www.rottmansales.com/IPLs/Pioneer/Farmsaw_OPT.pdf

Here's an IPL for your farmsaw.

475322 is the decomp.
432130 is the actuator wire which rides on the 429892 gear. After you take off the recoil and look at it for a minute it will all make sense.
Click to expand...

Preface the Pioneer pn with 507 (ie 475322 becomes 507475322) and some of the Pioneer parts are available at Ordertree (Poulan).
I have 2 Friction Yokes (507429572 (original pn 432129 - both now NLA) 1 in use ) and the Decomp Lever I got like that. I see no reason with a good pattern they could not be easily duplicated.
Lou
 
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