Pioneer chainsaws

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The saw got here today, here is a couple pics.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/supercabs78/5368091760/" title="Pioneer P62 by supercabs78, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5368091760_b373c1f682.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Pioneer P62" /></a>
I put it together but thats all I have done, busy today maybe tomorrow I'll start it.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/supercabs78/5367482347/" title="Pioneer P62 by supercabs78, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5367482347_6d22f50e9c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Pioneer P62" /></a>

Now to hunt for a long bar.
 
Ok guys, got the Farmsaw in today.


Called Rottman, they do not have the parts.


I'm looking for the yoke spring and the (432129)

And the actuator (430609)

I believe the actuator will still work, but the yoke spring is completely gone.


If anyone has one please PM me and we'll work something out.
 
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Ok guys, got the Farmsaw in today.


Called Rottman, they do not have the parts.


I'm looking for the yoke spring and the (432129)

And the actuator (432609)

I believe the actuator will still work, but the yoke spring is completely gone.


If anyone has one please PM me and we'll work something out.

I think I can fix your problem. I'll get back to you.
 
That is one nice P62! Wow, I'd say lucky!

I'm wondering if anyone on the thread is interested in buying a very nice Poulan Pro 655. I have an extra that I'd like to sell. It's all original and needs nothing. PM me if interested.
P1010256.jpg
 
That is one nice P62! Wow, I'd say lucky!

I'm wondering if anyone on the thread is interested in buying a very nice Poulan Pro 655. I have an extra that I'd like to sell. It's all original and needs nothing. PM me if interested.
P1010256.jpg

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGHhHH........how come these things always come up for sale when I got no #@$%^&&$%## money?????

Nice looking saw.
 
@Thieroff 432609 is available at Poulan They call it a needle (Lo); are you certain that is the correct pn?
Part Mfg: POULAN-WEED-EATER
Part Number: PWE 507432609
Price: $3.84
There will be a handling and shipping fee.

The light came on 430609 is the starter spool. NLA at Poulan.
Lou
Anyone work at an aluminum foundry? I think it would be a simple casting and require little tooling. I know a casting must be over sized (I don't know how much) because they shrink as they cool and would likely require 2 pieces unless a lost wax casting were used.
 
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@Thieroff 432609 is available at Poulan They call it a needle (Lo); are you certain that is the correct pn?
Part Mfg: POULAN-WEED-EATER
Part Number: PWE 507432609
Price: $3.84
There will be a handling and shipping fee.

The light came on 430609 is the starter spool. NLA at Poulan.
Lou
Anyone work at an aluminum foundry? I think it would be a simple casting and require little tooling. I know a casting must be over sized (I don't know how much) because they shrink as they cool and would likely require 2 pieces unless a lost wax casting were used.

Thank you for the correction Lou
 
Cast parts

Hmmmmm! Seems like you fellas are talking about making Pioneer parts again,LOL
On a serious note though we did talk about trying to make plastic air filter covers using a mold.I would like to know exactly what the term sand cast means.I take it that a metal heated to liquid form is poured into a sand cast mold.But how do they make the sand cast mold?I believe that is how the old IEL parts were made.Am I right Jerry, ah Jerry are you around here.
Lawrence
 
Yes Lawrence,..you are correct on the sand cast moulds. First a mould is made from an existing part, then liquid molten metal is poured in, in the case of the airfilter covers a two piece mould is needed if the mould is made from an existing airfilter cover. If you had a wax plug/mould of the airfilter cover then a one piece sand mould could be made around the wax plug. When the mould sets up heat is applied and the wax will melt and run out, the hole it runs out is where the molten metal will be poured back in. The mould also needs an air vent at the highest point away from the mouth of the pour in point, refered to as a riser, it lets out trapped air and a little extra molten metal so that the mould fills completely. Much more to it but that is a general overview.
Pioneerguy600
 
Yes Lawrence,..you are correct on the sand cast moulds. First a mould is made from an existing part, then liquid molten metal is poured in, in the case of the airfilter covers a two piece mould is needed if the mould is made from an existing airfilter cover. If you had a wax plug/mould of the airfilter cover then a one piece sand mould could be made around the wax plug. When the mould sets up heat is applied and the wax will melt and run out, the hole it runs out is where the molten metal will be poured back in. The mould also needs an air vent at the highest point away from the mouth of the pour in point, refered to as a riser, it lets out trapped air and a little extra molten metal so that the mould fills completely. Much more to it but that is a general overview.
Pioneerguy600

Most all the foundrys have closed their doors and the work has gone to India and China. Thank the folks at OSHA and the EPA.:angrysoapbox:

No american wants to work in a dirty foundry anyway.

Off my soapbox now.:blob5:
 
I used to do temperature calibrations. We had a few customers that did and do metal casting. One (Spokane Steel) comes to mind. They had a machine that made tens of a wax positives an hour (anyone have a Harley Davidson Knife?). The positives were dipped in a solution, allowed to dry, then baked to cure the coating and melt the positive. The completed negatives were filled with steel, allowed to cool then broken away.
They also do standard sand castings.
I see no reason a similar process would not work for aluminum to make select saw parts.
Lou
 
I used to do temperature calibrations. We had a few customers that did and do metal casting. One (Spokane Steel) comes to mind. They had a machine that made tens of a wax positives an hour (anyone have a Harley Davidson Knife?). The positives were dipped in a solution, allowed to dry, then baked to cure the coating and melt the positive. The completed negatives were filled with steel, allowed to cool then broken away.
They also do standard sand castings.
I see no reason a similar process would not work for aluminum to make select saw parts.
Lou

I have had a one hour lab in Foundry Principles (1964?) at UM Rolla. We called it "sand box lab". Made ourselves some ashtrays with alum. I still have mine.

As a plant engineer I delt with a small foundry in K.C. We kept our own patterns on hand to make machine parts.

My son worked for a while at Atchison Casting. Steel foundry. Diesel locomotive trucks. He came home dirty.
 
As did I. Run all over the plant verifying and when necessary adjusting. At the end of the day you sweat casting sand. Tussle your hair (if I had any) and you have casting sand dandruff.
Lou
 
Finally getting to some of my winter projects.
i should have cleaned them this fall before putting them away,dont like working on filthy stuff but to COLD out right now to clean outside.
So i got this one with no spark,standard OP for getting to the points ? flywheel nut lefty loosey ? nothing strange to be wary of on this saw ?
just a 600 been sitting for many a long year..

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