Pioneer chainsaws

[67L36Driver]

The HM is going back together but I'm running into a problem getting the cyl head to seal at the copper gasket. I assumed the old one could be reused if not damaged. I tried turning it over. There was a slight ridge around the aluminum cylinder just above the copper gasket. Thought maybe the head wasn't seating evenly on the gasket but I confirmed that with some paint.

I'd sure appreciate any suggestions.

We re-use copper head gaskets on our Corvair by annealing them with a propane torch (plumber's type).

 

[buzz sawyer]

We re-use copper head gaskets on our Corvair by annealing them with a propane torch (plumber's type).

Good idea. Been awhile since I've seen or worked on a Corvair.
Thanks!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Those heads have to be spot on or they will leak. More than once I have put them on and had to remove the bolts to allow the head to shift even just a squeak so that it would mate with the cylinder properly. You should still be able to reuse the copper gasket, annealing sounds like a good idea.
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Well guys ,..another big yeller feller arrived today, you can now start the guessing game...LOL
Pioneerguy600

 

[triumph79]

P28 Chainsaw

Hi everybody I have a p28 saw and I need to know what the carb adjustments are cause when it starts up it runs for a little bit then it shuts off. Its a weird carb cause it only has one adjustment screw. If any body knows about these saw please reply.

 

[pioneerguy600]

On the P28 with the single adustable speed screw the initial setting is 1 3/4 turns out from lightly seated. The carb can either be a Tillotson HU or a Walbro WA, you would have to verify which one you have if you need to get a carb kit.
Pioneerguy600

 

[triumph79]

P28 chainsaw

Thanx I will try that tomarrow

 

[buzz sawyer]

Those heads have to be spot on or they will leak. More than once I have put them on and had to remove the bolts to allow the head to shift even just a squeak so that it would mate with the cylinder properly. You should still be able to reuse the copper gasket, annealing sounds like a good idea.
Pioneerguy600

Yeah, that makes sense - the ring has a raised area from where it originally mated with the head. I'll try annealing and turn it over. Heading out to the shop now.

Thanks again!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Ok, keep us in the loop.
Pioneerguy600

 

[kev1n]

I just got a p50, It has a nasty dime shaped hole with a tail that goes into in the upper gas tank case screw slot. I would like to get the case apart and try welding this from the inside. Is there a thread on cracking one of these or similar apart and back together again with redneck tools?
Thanks Kevin

 

[pioneerguy600]

Not that I can remember Kev1, they are not difficult ,straight forward simple design. A crank pusher would be helpful, many styles of them used in a lot of the case separating threads.
Pioneerguy600

 

[buzz sawyer]

Yeah, that makes sense - the ring has a raised area from where it originally mated with the head. I'll try annealing and turn it over. Heading out to the shop now.

Thanks again!

Problem solved. I keep a glass platen from an old copier covered with 320 grit sandpaper. I use it to flatten parts like carb flanges, etc. I dressed the copper gasket flat. Thickness varied from 0.0265" to 0.028. That seemed good. Did the same with the ring on the head - just enough to know there were no high spots. I then annealed the gasket, dressed it with Never sieze, and bolted the head in place. Voila!......It still didn't hold pressure. So I held my face real close and felt the air coming out of somewhere - turns out there is an impulse passage going to the fuel pump gasket surface for those models with auto oiling. I still had the oil pump cover off so it leaked. All back together now and no leaks, holding pressure fine. So here's the crankcase and cyl assembly. Hmmmm wonder if anyone ever nicknamed this thing "The Turtle?"

btw - the blue arrow in the bottom photo points to the bushing I turned to reduce the seal opening so I could use the same seal as my SP125.

Edit - thought I may as well throw in a "before" photo.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Looking real good there Buzz, it will be a spiffy looking saw when completed. I got a couple of them hanging around the shop, at least one of them was running last time I tried it. Got a couple of HC`s that are also good runners.
Pioneerguy600

 

[67L36Driver]

buzz sawyer:

You do nice work fella. Good move on making a seal fit.

 

[kev1n]

Not that I can remember Kev1, they are not difficult ,straight forward simple design. A crank pusher would be helpful, many styles of them used in a lot of the case separating threads.
Pioneerguy600

Thanks for the info Jerry, maybe I'll pressure test this first. I might be able to weld it from the outside and grind it down later to get the case screw out if needed. It would be better from the inside though.
Thanks Kevin

 

[pioneerguy600]

Crank pushers are easy to fab up so if you feel its better to split the case then that is easily do able.

 

[hoss]

Any chance that one of you guys would have or know where to find a set of crank seals for a pioneer 800? I got a line on one but I know it has a blown seal and I don't want to buy it unless I know I can fix it. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[lumberjackchef]

Partner P45 CB ?

Can you guys shed any light on this saw? Same displacement as a farmsaw, P-41 possibly. Nothing on Acres site that I could find.

Partner P45 CB chainsaw P45CB No reserve - eBay (item 110642471693 end time Feb-05-11 21:14:59 PST)

 

[Busmech]

Try looking under Pioneer Partner, that saw is 4.5 cube, a little larger than The P41 series.

 

[pioneerman]

P45 is a Pioneer Partner based on the P40,41, 42 series saws. It is 72cc instead of 66 cc. Stroke is same at 1.437 inches, but bore is increased to 1.97 inches from 1.875 inches on the P40, 41, 42.