Stihl 044

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Than
I generally use a small standard screwdriver and insert into the notch and then gently twist with little down pressure. Keeping in mind to keep a finger on it when it decides to launch across the room. It becomes a feel thing after a time or two.
thank you, I think I’ll wait till parts arrive first. More things taken off more things to remember and it’s can be ugly at times lol
 
Guys, beneath the crankshaft there is some oil, what type of oil is that and do I need to top it off?
 
Here are some pics of the clutch side.
 

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After … I have a question though. There’s a little piece of rubber where I circled, what is it? I think I need to replace that.IMG_0899.jpeg
 
check 1128 647 7000 - oil pump plug. I think that is the part you circled. The pump piston sits behind that then a spring and a washer inside the pump housing. If you remove the torx bolts the pump will come off and you can clean it and inspect things, if you have an oil can you can test the pump by putting some drops of oil in the pickup side and spinning the metal gear, it should eventually pump oil to the hardline side. It takes a while if your doing this by hand.
 
babaoriley, getting ready for what?

You put the top end back on. Did we miss where all those scratches and fouling and heated parts went? What about mention of checking the crank bearings for play, or do you intend to seal the whole saw up as if it was rebuilt, then do cylinder leak and vac tests, carb leak tests, fuel line and impulse line replacement, fuel filter, cap and tank pressure and vac testing?

So much to do in order to get the diagnosis of this saw's original health/cause for failures vs what the specs will be if rebuilt right.
 
babaoriley, getting ready for what?

You put the top end back on. Did we miss where all those scratches and fouling and heated parts went? What about mention of checking the crank bearings for play, or do you intend to seal the whole saw up as if it was rebuilt, then do cylinder leak and vac tests, carb leak tests, fuel line and impulse line replacement, fuel filter, cap and tank pressure and vac testing?

So much to do in order to get the diagnosis of this saw's original health/cause for failures vs what the specs will be if rebuilt right.
Top end is not back on, the messed up top end is back on so I can clean and nothing can come inside. I’ll check for crankshaft play. Getting ready to put the used piston and cylinder on. I’m still waiting for those. I’ll clean the carb and check fuel lines and stuff later.
 
Top end is not back on, the messed up top end is back on so I can clean and nothing can come inside.
This is what I suspected. But thought it was wise to mention getting a handle on all the testing that you should have done, will do, and should do once any saw is rebuilt or when diagnosing running issues.
 
This is what I suspected. But thought it was wise to mention getting a handle on all the testing that you should have done, will do, and should do once any saw is rebuilt or when diagnosing running issues.
This is what I suspected. But thought it was wise to mention getting a handle on all the testing that you should have done, will do, and should do once any saw is rebuilt or when diagnosing running issues.
I’ll do what I can with what I have. So far ppl on here agreed that the wrong gas was used. So I’ll clean the tank and fuel lines, and check for crankshaft play but that’s a bout it. Also, I’ll put all gasket and seals new.

On another note, I had a ms180 with straight gas in it the other day. Owner lied to me, so I tried to get it started and never looked at the piston. I got it started but it idled extremely high, don’t know if that’s a common thing but if that what happened to this 044 saw, that would cause it overheating and eventually piston and cylinder were gone.
 
babaoriley,

I am not a pro builder, mechanic or tree/logger guy as a profession. However, I began with a brand new Stihl 026 back in 1994. I never used bad gas/straight gas in it other than to say I used gas that had ethanol in it. When my saw became a less often used saw, I noticed difficulty starting it and keeping it running well. This is when I began my " education" on diagnosing and also in how a chainsaw works, the basics. To learn and know these things goes far in teaching us what to look for in a properly running saw, string trimmer, other small 2 stroke engine. And then once we know how one should work properly, we can sense and or test for the causes of when one is running poorly, needs a minor adjustment, air filter, spark plug etc cleaning or further testing to determine if a self destructing type failure is occurring and will yield a damaged saw.
 
Despite some previous experts in this thread mentioning not all youtube is "good" I have found some very good sources and some are factory trained. Do yourself a favor and give a look at some that I will post for your reference. So much to learn about saws and yet a lot of it is common sense. Keys to a well running, well maintained, and keys to long life and properly cutting /safe saws can boil down to common sense and remembering the little things. Also remember, a sharp chain yields a happy and cooler running saw.

Here is a good informative video.

 
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