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Just filled the tank up all the way, warmed it up and it still does it!! Frustrating. :dizzy: Gave it some throttle to see if it would even out and it sounded pretty choppy.
 
That does sometimes indicate the crank seals are bad They aren't too bad to change.

You would need to remove the clutch for the PTO side seal. The flywheel, points and points box as well. If it has an electronic module, just the flywheel.
 
I had a different Mac 10-10 that I put new seals in (along with a new piston/rings) and applied some chassis grease around them to help them seal. I didn't put any sealant around them. Is this necessary to do for a proper seal? I had a shop pressure test the powerhead and apparently it's leaking from the PTO seal, even though it's newly installed...
 
I don't bother with sealants unless the area it's going into is split like a clamshell saw. Some guys always put a little sealant around the outside of the seal case.

It may be possible that the garter spring fell off or the lip may have been damaged when installing the seal.
 
It is very difficult to put the seal on the PTO side with the "square" step on the crankshaft with a sleeve in place, or at least a bit of tape wrapped around to help the seal slide over the step. I would recommend only SKF6119 for the seal as the metal case has a slight chamfer on the back side to help guide it into the bore.

Mark
 
Just installed the SKF6119 seal with some chassis grease slapped on it and it went on pretty easy. Put everything back together and it still has the exact same problem... Dies at idle when the clutch side is facing the ground or runs rough when revved in the same position. This was done on a full tank of fresh mix gas. 40:1. Went through the carb and rebuilt it, even though it really didn't need it. The only thing I haven't checked is the fuel line/filter inside the tank which looks fairly new (and doubting it's that) or the flywheel side crank seal..
 
Back to square one I go... Replaced the flywheel side seal with no problems and still have the same exact problem. Flywheel side crank seal I installed was identical in size to the one I pulled out of it as well as one I pulled out of another Mac 10-10A. The previous owner said that he had replaced the crank seals (guessing when it was rebuilt in January), pressure tested it, and it held pressure. I'm wondering if maybe it has something to do with this aftermarket fuel line? I was debating on putting an OEM fuel line on it, that I know works just to see what happens.. Could have nothing to do with it, but I'm really just grasping at straws here..
 

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Try another carb for s**t's and giggles I had a 10-10 running very much the same and I figured crank seals so I tried a carb off a known good runner (untle straight gassed by previous owner) and bingo
i done that to on a 805 wouldnt run right no matter what i done and wouldnt run the same way twice took the carb off my 700 as a last try and bam!! never skipped a beat after but on further inspection on the carb saw that the low jet adjustment needle and the high was bent on the ends always check thos things now

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
i done that to on a 805 wouldnt run right no matter what i done and wouldnt run the same way twice took the carb off my 700 as a last try and bam!! never skipped a beat after but on further inspection on the carb saw that the low jet adjustment needle and the high was bent on the ends always check thos things now

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Bent needles eh hmm I got 3 dodgy running carbs sitting waiting some love so I'll look out for that when they finally get that love.

Going to do a full rebuild on a 10-10 after the silly season. I have 1 and 7/8ths of them sitting in wait
 
Bent needles eh hmm I got 3 dodgy running carbs sitting waiting some love so I'll look out for that when they finally get that love.

Going to do a full rebuild on a 10-10 after the silly season. I have 1 and 7/8ths of them sitting in wait
just roll them on something flat easy to see that way..10-10s are good little saws but i dont use mine any more prefer my 55 over it they weigh the same and much more power in the 55

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
just roll them on something flat easy to see that way..10-10s are good little saws but i dont use mine any more prefer my 55 over it they weigh the same and much more power in the 55

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Ok and yea same for me with a 700 sitting there and a 7-10 now cant wait to run that properly have only done a few cookies here n there
 
Tried another carb from a different 10-10 and now it works great - no problems. Wish I would've just tried that first haha, but at least it runs correctly now! :rock:

There ya go man easy as. If ya come across anything just grab them for carbs or sawdust screens clutches oil pumps even 20 bux on a dead saw is still worth it for bits or even screws. My 1st 10-10 only needed rings well I got the rings but by then heaps of little bits had been flogged for another two macs. So it's now a parts saw for 5 macs haha. The beauty of the 10 series is so many parts fit or can be made to fit
 

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