Hey whatever works for ya. Murphy often sits on my shoulder just waiting to hit me on the head. When it is my equipment and wallet on the line I will go the extra mile and spend the very few pennies it costs to make sure the lube and oil changes are taken care of to my liking. All manufacturers love to sell new stuff, be it parts or product. I have seen first hand what can happen the when the lubrication aspect is not up to snuff.
What fuel mix ratio best for M-tronic saws?
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Hey whatever works for ya. Murphy often sits on my shoulder just waiting to hit me on the head. When it is my equipment and wallet on the line I will go the extra mile and spend the very few pennies it costs to make sure the lube and oil changes are taken care of to my liking. All manufacturers love to sell new stuff, be it parts or product. I have seen first hand what can happen the when the lubrication aspect is not up to snuff.
Why do most saw manuals state the use of 25:1 oil ratio when not using the OEM recommended oil? Because round here its claimed often set in stone that 50:1 is an EPA thing. So why do they recommend 25:1 when they are not allowed too? Who is wrong here?
I’ve not seen that in any of my manuals.Why do most saw manuals state the use of 25:1 oil ratio when not using the OEM recommended oil? Because round here its claimed often set in stone that 50:1 is an EPA thing. So why do they recommend 25:1 when they are not allowed too? Who is wrong here?
Uhh um...maybe the MT saws are different but I've read it in lots of saw/0PE manuals.
Since I write equipment manuals I actually read them. It’s not in any of the Stihl or Echo newer manuals.
Fatherwheels
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And yet some people never learn.
Fatherwheels
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Not many people will advise you to go against what the manufacturer says,
but that’s because they don’t want you singing in their ear when something non
oil related breaks their saw, the adviser will be the first in line, except when
it’s Stihl, because you won’t be able to get to them, you will get customer
services, or corporate, and will soon go away.
I have seen 1,000 ooo Miles on engines, and all due to more frequent oil changes.
I know whose philosophy I would follow.
They don’t need to learn. Their manual already told them what is right
"Residual oil" is the lifeblood of a 2 stroke.
Tearing the engine down for inspection is the only way to have a clue what you are talking about on this oil ratio subject. Doing inspections before and after various ratios and oils are used under different conditions completes the education.
All oils are different (and annoyingly, sometimes companies change their formulations significantly without changing the label on the bottle significantly)
Anyhoo,
Tearing the engine down for inspection is the only way to have a clue what you are talking about on this oil ratio subject. Doing inspections before and after various ratios and oils are used under different conditions completes the education.
All oils are different (and annoyingly, sometimes companies change their formulations significantly without changing the label on the bottle significantly)
Anyhoo,
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
I’ve read 40:1 in manuals, if not using the manufacturers recommended oil.
A lot of the Chinese stuff states 25:1.
My vote 40 to 1 synthetic or 28 to 1 non synthetic which the latter has been most of my saws primary diet.
I keep 50 to 1 synthetic mix for my 4 mix power pruners and use it where new saw warranties apply, and when i work on someone elses saw that uses 50 to 1. Frequently i get a saw or other 2 cycle that will not open open up enough on carb adjustments to run the 28 to 1 so then again i use the 50 to 1.
Nonsynthetic was $4 a quart last i remember ( Champion air cooled formula) which transalates to $avings and for dcades it worked without problems for me. I keep my carb adjustments fine tuned and air filters get cleaned as needed.
If i find a good enough deal on synthetic i would likely go to 40 to 1 vs 28 to 1. If i was making big bucks with, and running newer more expensive saws I'd lkely switch .
All in all more lubrication is better as long as it burns reasonably clean. Lack of maintnence and tuning causes more of the carbon and smoke issues from what i have seen. Lots of people that neglect maintnence will have less carbon issues with 50 to 1.
As far as auto tune and mtronic i don't know how they adjust to more oil.
I keep 50 to 1 synthetic mix for my 4 mix power pruners and use it where new saw warranties apply, and when i work on someone elses saw that uses 50 to 1. Frequently i get a saw or other 2 cycle that will not open open up enough on carb adjustments to run the 28 to 1 so then again i use the 50 to 1.
Nonsynthetic was $4 a quart last i remember ( Champion air cooled formula) which transalates to $avings and for dcades it worked without problems for me. I keep my carb adjustments fine tuned and air filters get cleaned as needed.
If i find a good enough deal on synthetic i would likely go to 40 to 1 vs 28 to 1. If i was making big bucks with, and running newer more expensive saws I'd lkely switch .
All in all more lubrication is better as long as it burns reasonably clean. Lack of maintnence and tuning causes more of the carbon and smoke issues from what i have seen. Lots of people that neglect maintnence will have less carbon issues with 50 to 1.
As far as auto tune and mtronic i don't know how they adjust to more oil.
That's interesting. Any comments regarding the challenges of manual writing these days?
The problem is no one reads them.
haha!
I do. At least once.
I do. At least once.
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
They are written in Chinese, and translated by smarter Chinese into Chinglish,
but we do read them.
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
That’s the truth."Residual oil" is the lifeblood of a 2 stroke.
Tearing the engine down for inspection is the only way to have a clue what you are talking about on this oil ratio subject. Doing inspections before and after various ratios and oils are used under different conditions completes the education.
All oils are different (and annoyingly, sometimes companies change their formulations significantly without changing the label on the bottle significantly)
Anyhoo,
Am all for a window in the bottom end so I can see what oil settles
after a days work.
Maybe the porters will one day offer this feature for true peace of mind.
+1 on that"Residual oil" is the lifeblood of a 2 stroke.
Tearing the engine down for inspection is the only way to have a clue what you are talking about on this oil ratio subject. Doing inspections before and after various ratios and oils are used under different conditions completes the education.
All oils are different (and annoyingly, sometimes companies change their formulations significantly without changing the label on the bottle significantly)
Anyhoo,
a lot of the oil goes straight through the engine and is combusted, that fraction of oil that clings to the moving parts is THE key,and the size of that fraction of oil depends on engine design/fuel ratio/rpm/etc
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
And that’s what people really need to understand, some engines oil better than others and+1 on that
and the size of that fraction of oil depends on engine design/fuel ratio/rpm/etc
may be ok on 50:1 while it would kill another engine.
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good point!!
