wood dust in the carb hard on the saw?

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I have 2022 SuperDuty Ford with the 6.7 diesel and it actually runs their 10w-30 HD diesel oil, but the manual states in high temperature climates you can use a 15w-40. I use 15w-40 or 5w-40 in my other diesels, I've been using Valvoline Blue / Premium Blue because they sell it at Napa.

Edit: I was sort of wrong, the manual states 5w-40 for extreme use, and 15w-40 if you're running bio diesel, and otherwise just use 10w-30.
 
I have 2022 SuperDuty Ford with the 6.7 diesel and it actually runs their 10w-30 HD diesel oil, but the manual states in high temperature climates you can use a 15w-40. I use 15w-40 or 5w-40 in my other diesels, I've been using Valvoline Blue / Premium Blue because they sell it at Napa.
Most Ford diesels have speed 10w30 diesel oils for winter use and have since the 7.3 power stroke. If you are using a 10w30 you will have less protection.
 
Most Ford diesels have speed 10w30 diesel oils for winter use and have since the 7.3 power stroke. If you are using a 10w30 you will have less protection.
I'll get a screenshot from my owner manual when I have a chance, but it came filled with 10w-30 and recommends it, I wouldn't dare deviate from the OEM specs while that thing is under warranty, but I can't disagree with liking a 40 weight oil in a diesel.

Edit: There appears to be a Motocraft 5w-40 available that I could use, so next oil change I'll probably make the switch.
 
I brought up film thickness, as it does what you called film strength does. It is not actually a clearance thing. If the clearance is less than the film thickness, wear will occur. And I did answer your question as posed. I don't know what an Xw40 oil is, but the Ford 6.7l turbodiesels use 5W40, as I told you before.
Time Out Please, side bar on multi wt vs versus straight wt:
When I was hauling logs in the 70s we used straight 40 wt in the 855ci Hercules in our '42 Federal 6 by. It got HOT when we worked it hard, and it used quite a bit of oil. One day (I was out of town) my dad and brother apparently couldn't find any more 40wt so the dumped in a couple gallons of 10w-40. Lost a rod same day. Fast forward to the mid eighties. I was working on the North Slope in the arctic in the winter (-20F), everything ran 24-7 with straight 30wt. I asked why they didn't use the new "Frigid Go" multi-vis oil, and was told "We used to, but lost too many engines". That was 40 yrs ago, but still I have this nagging suspicion that the multi-vis oils do not really have as much viscosity at high temp as the old straight wt oils. I still run straight 40wt in my two vintage Detroits, and straight 30wt in the Continental flathead in my 50-something Hyster forklift. Are there not a whole lot of air-cooled Harleys out there still running a straight wt oil? And airplanes also? I do run multi-vis of course in all my autos & motorcycles, including my '73 F100.
I haven't actually done this, but I think it would be an interesting "real world" test. The 360 in the F100 is getting tired, oil pressure not what it I would like to see, so currently running 20w50 racing oil. I wonder if the hot-run pressure would go up if I changed to straight 50wt motorcycle oil or airplane oil? Obviously NOT good for start-up, but strictly for the comparison of straight wt vs multi-vis at hot run, would be interesting to see what it does.
What do you think?
 
I'll get a screenshot from my owner manual when I have a chance, but it came filled with 10w-30 and recommends it, I wouldn't dare deviate from the OEM specs while that thing is under warranty, but I can't disagree with liking a 40 weight oil in a diesel.

Edit: There appears to be a Motocraft 5w-40 available that I could use, so next oil change I'll probably make the switch.
I believe they reccomend 5w40 for "Severe Duty" or similar verbiage.
 
Time Out Please, side bar on multi wt vs versus straight wt:
When I was hauling logs in the 70s we used straight 40 wt in the 855ci Hercules in our '42 Federal 6 by. It got HOT when we worked it hard, and it used quite a bit of oil. One day (I was out of town) my dad and brother apparently couldn't find any more 40wt so the dumped in a couple gallons of 10w-40. Lost a rod same day. Fast forward to the mid eighties. I was working on the North Slope in the arctic in the winter (-20F), everything ran 24-7 with straight 30wt. I asked why they didn't use the new "Frigid Go" multi-vis oil, and was told "We used to, but lost too many engines". That was 40 yrs ago, but still I have this nagging suspicion that the multi-vis oils do not really have as much viscosity at high temp as the old straight wt oils. I still run straight 40wt in my two vintage Detroits, and straight 30wt in the Continental flathead in my 50-something Hyster forklift. Are there not a whole lot of air-cooled Harleys out there still running a straight wt oil? And airplanes also? I do run multi-vis of course in all my autos & motorcycles, including my '73 F100.
I haven't actually done this, but I think it would be an interesting "real world" test. The 360 in the F100 is getting tired, oil pressure not what it I would like to see, so currently running 20w50 racing oil. I wonder if the hot-run pressure would go up if I changed to straight 50wt motorcycle oil or airplane oil? Obviously NOT good for start-up, but strictly for the comparison of straight wt vs multi-vis at hot run, would be interesting to see what it does.
What do you think?
Certain motors, like Detroit 2 cycles need straight weight oils. Modern ones do not.
 
I run 0/40 diesel rated oil in everything (everything) year round, for about the last 15 years (at least). Even 5/40 is so stiff at startup in cold weather that I don't like the clatter.

Not all 0 weights are created equal. I choose between Mobil and Shell.
 
I ran a Chevy Nova SS 20 years on Gulf Pride Multi G.
Run fresh oil. Back then it was 3,000 miles. Maybe stretch it to 5,000 with synthetic.

Maybe , if I live to be 150 I will have an oil related failure in anything. Chainsaws included.

Remember back in the 50's the gas caps actually had etched in to them. "buy clean fuel, keep it clean "
 
My profile is blank. Companies I have previously worked for discouraged the use of social media. That and I never found it useful anyways.
I could give two chits about you so no, you haven't even slightly got in my head.
Liar! You would not have gone to the trouble to research my profile if that were so. Your motives are obvious.
 
I ran a Chevy Nova SS 20 years on Gulf Pride Multi G.
Run fresh oil. Back then it was 3,000 miles. Maybe stretch it to 5,000 with synthetic.

Maybe , if I live to be 150 I will have an oil related failure in anything. Chainsaws included.

Remember back in the 50's the gas caps actually had etched in to them. "buy clean fuel, keep it clean "
And that cars engine was probably dead in under 200k.
 
For light duty passenger vehicles designed for such light fluids. Even then it s compromise that trades protection for fuel economy.
^ this right here! I personally like to know what the bearing gaps are before making a decision on what oil I want to have in a motor. A lot of modern stuff in the automotive industry uses 20 weight oil just because of small bearing gaps and high pressure oil pumps. But everything industrial still uses 5w40 or 10w40. I can't imagine why lol
 
^ this right here! I personally like to know what the bearing gaps are before making a decision on what oil I want to have in a motor. A lot of modern stuff in the automotive industry uses 20 weight oil just because of small bearing gaps and high pressure oil pumps. But everything industrial still uses 5w40 or 10w40. I can't imagine why lol
CAFE is a big deal and even small improvements are worth while to the manufacturers.
 
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