Best 2 Stroke Oil?

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

That might be true for lower end Amsoil products, but not of Signature Series oils, or Saber 2-stroke. There are different grades of Amsoil - not all of it is sky-high expensive. Just the top shelf stuff. It's expensive because it uses the best of everything.

I run my stuff HARD, whether it's my 2-stroke motorcycle, flying my paramotor, or running hand-held outdoor power equipment (OPE) - I have 2-stroke engines that are over 20 years old that still have over 100 PSI compression. My paramotor head temperatures kiss 400° on climb-out for a few minutes. I run Saber at 66:1 in the paramotor - 100:1 in everything else. The 2-stroke RD350 gets Dominator 2-stroke, since Saber is a little to heavy for the injection pump. Would be mixed at a higher ratio than is necessary anyway, so Dominator is fine for that application. 7k HARD miles - super hot idling in traffic, and frequent trips past the stock 7k RPM redline - on it since a complete overhaul, and the engine has the same compression as right after break-in.

On all my 2-stroke stuff, carbon buildup is almost nonexistent. Compared to other good synthetic oils I've run in the past, it is night and day different in cleanliness.

All my customers got Amsoil in both 2 and 4 stroke equipment. One customer had put almost 700 hours on a box-store rider, and when I tore the engine down to replace leaking gaskets, the pistons and cylinders looked virtually brand new. Perfect crosshatch pattern still visible in both cylinders, with no scuffing on pistons.

I could care less about advertisements. Real world stuff like this is what sold me. It's not that other oils won't work - I just want the best of the best in my engines, since I don't have the time anymore to be wrenching on my own stuff.

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It’s the reason many of us run saber. Nothing I’ve seen has come close to burning as clean. That dominator doesn’t look bad either, but doesn’t run as clean as Saber unless it’s ported with the baffle removed. I sold a 660 recently after about 16 tanks on it, and the piston was spotlessly clean and the bottom end absolutely coated. Though it should be at 40:1. 40:1 is overkill with saber, but doesn’t seem to affect it…

 

[coffeebrk]

It’s the reason many of us run saber. Nothing I’ve seen has come close to burning as clean. That dominator doesn’t look bad either, but doesn’t run as clean as Saber unless it’s ported with the baffle removed. I sold a 660 recently after about 16 tanks on it, and the piston was spotlessly clean and the bottom end absolutely coated. Though it should be at 40:1. 40:1 is overkill with saber, but doesn’t seem to affect it…

Phew, so it's Saber then. Finally we can all concur.

 

[bwalker]

Phew, so it's Saber then. Finally we can all concur.

I never found Saber to be particularly clean. Dominator is cleaner.
But neither is any better than other high end oils like Red Armour, Maxima K2, etc.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Phew, so it's Saber then. Finally we can all concur.

No oil will end the oil debate

 

[bwalker]

That might be true for lower end Amsoil products, but not of Signature Series oils, or Saber 2-stroke. There are different grades of Amsoil - not all of it is sky-high expensive. Just the top shelf stuff. It's expensive because it uses the best of everything.

I run my stuff HARD, whether it's my 2-stroke motorcycle, flying my paramotor, or running hand-held outdoor power equipment (OPE) - I have 2-stroke engines that are over 20 years old that still have over 100 PSI compression. My paramotor head temperatures kiss 400° on climb-out for a few minutes. I run Saber at 66:1 in the paramotor - 100:1 in everything else. The 2-stroke RD350 gets Dominator 2-stroke, since Saber is a little to heavy for the injection pump. Would be mixed at a higher ratio than is necessary anyway, so Dominator is fine for that application. 7k HARD miles - super hot idling in traffic, and frequent trips past the stock 7k RPM redline - on it since a complete overhaul, and the engine has the same compression as right after break-in.

On all my 2-stroke stuff, carbon buildup is almost nonexistent. Compared to other good synthetic oils I've run in the past, it is night and day different in cleanliness.

All my customers got Amsoil in both 2 and 4 stroke equipment. One customer had put almost 700 hours on a box-store rider, and when I tore the engine down to replace leaking gaskets, the pistons and cylinders looked virtually brand new. Perfect crosshatch pattern still visible in both cylinders, with no scuffing on pistons.

I could care less about advertisements. Real world stuff like this is what sold me. It's not that other oils won't work - I just want the best of the best in my engines, since I don't have the time anymore to be wrenching on my own stuff.

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That piston pic just shows the engine was running on the rich side. Tune it properly and the crown will show more carbon.

 

[bwalker]

It has been claimed that the big oil companies do not sell their best base oil to independent blenders such as Amsoil, Royal Purple, Lucas oil, etc. I did some digging on several fora in addition to this one and found that several people have claimed that Amsoil uses ExxonMobil base oil and Lubrizol additives. While I cannot verify that this is true, I decided to check out the ExxonMobil web site to see what they say about selling base oils. Well, it turns out they are eager to sell whatever base oil their customers need and are committed to the success of the many independent blenders they serve, even going so far as to make custom base stock and aid in formulation. You can see how eager they are on this web page: https://www.exxonmobilchemical.com/en/products/synthetic-base-stocks
So, I think the claim that the independents cannot get the best base stocks is bogus. Selling top quality base stocks is good business, especially since there are so many independent blenders. If you go to the Industry Net website and enter lubricants, you will find literally hundreds of companies, and dozens of them are independent blenders. They form a significant market for base oils at a premium price.

They majors most certainly do sell base oils. The also most certainly do have proprietary base oils and additives.

 

[bwalker]

You are doubling down on your ignorance of fluid dynamics. Have you heard of dimensional analysis? All units of measure can be broken down into combinations of mass, length and time. Film strength has dimensions of mass/(length* time^2). Viscosity has dimensions of mass/(length*time). Viscosity and file strength are therefore as different as mass and acceleration or mass and height. And film strength is not even correlated necessarily as a function of viscosity. Today's 0W20 synthetic oils have a higher film strength than the straight 40 weight oils that were formulated 20-30 years ago. And it is odd that you think I am limited to Newtonian fluids. In my line of work, I get into non-Newtonian fluids all the time. Many follow the Herschel-Bulkley model (look it up). Some cannot be measured on a conventional viscometer due to large particulates in suspension (such as the case where lignocellulosic materials are being processed into biofuels). I have had to devise my own special apparatus to characterize the rheology of such materials, and I have published my methodology.

Yes, I am sure some on this forum laugh at me. I am sure some laugh at you privately, as I know many that have posted here have said good things about Amsoil on other fora. And I would say many do not like you, because they can see you are just a pompous troll and a miserable excuse for a human being. A decent human being would never wish death on another because of disagreements about oil, and then refuse to apologize as soon as possible if it was just a lapse of character.

Boy, I am impressed! You sure are a cool guy!

 

[North by Northwest]

Is it FC? FC is pretty good oil BTW.

Especially , if smoke & odor abatement is not a high priority . Lots of Quality FC oils out there @ a góod price point !

 

[North by Northwest]

4

Here's what happens when you run cheap oil longer than you should in handheld, hot-running 4-stroke OPE:

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Phew, so it's Saber then. Finally we can all concur.

...or Red Armor , Dominator , Castrol or Yamalube .. etc !

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Especially , if smoke & odor abatement is not a high priority . Lots of Quality FC oils out there @ a góod price point !

Not out here, activ has shot up in price in Oz. I blame Rogue and his posts on here - Castrol have gotten wind and taking advantage. Talking of @rogue60 answer your phone you useless bugger!

 

[coffeebrk]

No oil will end the oil debate

Then on to page #32!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I made this on my lunch break from stuff around the shop, what ratio should it take and what oil is best? What a pos really but it’s a talking point lol

 

[bwalker]

Especially , if smoke & odor abatement is not a high priority . Lots of Quality FC oils out there @ a góod price point !

FC oils in my expiereance are almost indistinguishable from FD. Probably because many of them exceed FC specs by a good amount.

 

[Lionsfan]

Good to know. It takes me several years to get to even 175 hours, so I suspect it is best that I don't go too long. My tractor was purchased new in 2015 and it is just now getting to about 350 hours. It sits unused for weeks at a time. When I use it, it gets used hard.

You are violating every rule in The Project Farm handbook if you're only changing your oil every 4-5 years.

 

[Hermio]

I have stated what my Bachelors of Science is in. Not that it matters. For example you allegedly are a chemical engineer, but your still clueless! In addition I think anyone who has worked in industry has also worked with Engineers that where just about useless.
In my expierenace those that continually make mention of their engineering degree are compensating for something.
Perhaps you should go back to church?

Well, I went back and checked all pages in this thread. You did not say what field your Bachelor of Science degree is in.

 

[Hermio]

No, I will not repeat due to your laziness.
No, I will not proof read every post I make. This is a chainsaw site, not a college English class.
Your back around doesn't impress me either. Mostly because you have an inability to understand simple mechanical concepts.
I am not envious of engineers at all. I would not want their job in most cases.
The number of good engineers is very small. Many are about useless. That's just how it is.

OK. You called me lazy for not going back to see what your degree was in. So I did. I went back and checked all pages in this thread. You did not say what field your Bachelor of Science degree is in. You may have intended to, but you did not.

 

[Hermio]

You are violating every rule in The Project Farm handbook if you're only changing your oil every 4-5 years.

I did not know there was such a thing as a Project Farm handbook.

 

[bwalker]

OK. You called me lazy for not going back to see what your degree was in. So I did. I went back and checked all pages in this thread. You did not say what field your Bachelor of Science degree is in. You may have intended to, but you did not.

It's on this website...

 

[Hermio]

It's on this website...

Where? I looked at all the pages in this thread.

 

[North by Northwest]

Not out here, activ has shot up in price in Oz. I blame Rogue and his posts on here - Castrol have gotten wind and taking advantage. Talking of @rogue60 answer your phone you useless bugger!

I'am talking $8-$14 a quart within North America . $30+ usd. is what some top shelf manufacturers are asking , eg: Motul & Maxima ...etc ! Castrol & Shell 2T are still very well priced here North of the Border !