Brush and debris pile burning in cold weather?

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Would you hire you without ins? Would you hire uncle Bob with a green poulan to take down a 2' diameter tree within striking distance of a structure? Would you want some references before turning someone loose on your property? Seems kinda irresponsible to do so, in my humble opinion. Home owners ins will not cover damage done by unlicensed tree workers in our area, and yes, not all regions are the same, just for arguments sake.
Maybe you misread pdql's post. He merely mentioned all that was needed to get insurance in his area was a checkbook. In no way did he suggest hiring him without it.
 
Ok. I'm pretty tired of you telling people to slow down just because you cannot keep up.

WRONG:


Right:




This is the homeowner helper forum. Please try to keep up.
Yes this is the homeowner helper forum.
Had you sloooooooooooowed down you would have seen ole @TheJollyLogger start whining about climbing.
Had you sloooooooooooowed down you would have seen I corrected @TheJollyLogger about what forum we are in and pointed out that there was indeed a forum about climbing and that he was probably confused.

Instead of trying to call me out all the time I suggest you read read prior to posting. That is the reason I tell you to slooooooow down.

Here is what I said when @TheJollyLogger was whining about climbing.

You are confused here is the section you are thinking about.
Sloooooooooooooooow down read, let it sink in, and learn.

View attachment 1167204
 
So that's all, seems one would have to have knowledge of the subject and extensive experience in the field to be considered a Pro?
Here you can get a commercial pesticide applicators license without spraying a weed. No experience necessary and folks wonder why tree huggers whine.
 
Doing it for a recognizable part of your income, notwithstanding whatever unprofessional things you might be doing in that trade or your awesome work ethic.

No money... Not a pro, regardless of your talent set. And making money on the side while pursuing some other career doesn't count, either.
It's like this: you might be getting money for being the best college first baseman that ever lived, but you ain't "Pro". You might advance to the Minor Leagues, and now you might be considered a "pro" because you are certainly doing it for a living. Everybody knows that you are a "Pro" baseball player when you make it to the big league, regardless of the team you might happen to be playing on. What position you might be playing will also tell everyone your importance to the team, too.
Do you burn brush piles and dozer piles as a ...............recognizable part of your income......?
 
You would indeed need that as well to get certified for the license, and Insured. No ins broker will cover you without it. The experience part is why you would need a former clients list with recommendations. Hope that helps.
I ask again who certifies and licenses brush pile and dozer pile burners?

I am all ears. Let me know.

Do you need a phone number to call in Springfield?
 
Do you burn brush piles and dozer piles as a ...............recognizable part of your income......?

Actually, I've been trying to work up a client into paying for some brush pile burning, but haven't closed a sale yet. The blowers are damned expensive, renting the burner devices is even worse. I'm still working on building a pit and blower system. So far, no sales yet.

It you set a fire in Kansas City, it is a sure thing you will get a visit from the fire department. With no burn permit, they are likely to give you a ticket, too. Getting a burn permit isn't going to happen without you use a clean-burning fire pit blower, and even then there are rules to be followed.

Kansas City really protects its clean air standards. Using a tire to start a fire will get their attention, every time. They will even use the airport to track a fire's location with their radar and then dispatch the fire department. Go ahead! Ask me how I know.
 
Yep, that's what I thought it said, wonder how many of the PRO's have a certificate designating them as burn specialist?

Seems the fellow was asking for help, he got the best advice on the first page and he can mull over his options. The rest of the thread, well it has lead to some informative information and derailing post less informative.

I enjoy it all.:clap:
Well . . . it has been interesting to drop in from time to time.
 
Well . . . it has been interesting to drop in from time to time.

So how did you end up with the brush fire?

Inquiring minds want to know!
Tell Me GIF by Shania Twain

 
So how did you end up with the brush fire?

Inquiring minds want to know!
Tell Me GIF by Shania Twain

My last try just before the burn ban on March 14, 2024 (if I recall the date) was a dismal failure. Lot of raging blaze until the "starter fluid" ran out then slowly faded, even with a leaf blower going full blast. Still a bit wet, I think from rain a few days earlier. But I wanted to try and sneak in before the ban.

Now, with all the days of rain from the "noreaster" lots of puddles still around. The ban will run until May 15. I'm willing to bet, given how it's gone so far, that by then we will be in a "dry spell" and they will extend the ban.
 
Did you ever set any dry combustible wood in to get it all started? Slow and sufficient heat is essential. Poured on liquids just go "Poof!", as you have discovered.

Just starting a green pile with some diesel fuel is a predictable failure. Gasoline has even less heat and is quicker to burn off, so it makes a poor starter for green piles of brush. The trick is to have enough slow heat present so that some of the green wood gets burning and then adds heat to the remaining green brush. If there isn't enough density in the pile to push the wood elements together and force any released heat into the evaporation of water out of the adjacent stick of wood, you will be waiting a long time for them to dry out enough so that a spark will make it all go up in flames.
 
Did you ever set any dry combustible wood in to get it all started? Slow and sufficient heat is essential. Poured on liquids just go "Poof!", as you have discovered.

Did not say I did that, nor did I do that. The "starter fluid" was a sorta joke, really being old shop rags and such soaked with used engine oil. It burned for a good 5 minutes or so.

Just starting a green pile with some diesel fuel is a predictable failure. Gasoline has even less heat and is quicker to burn off, so it makes a poor starter for green piles of brush. The trick is to have enough slow heat present so that some of the green wood gets burning and then adds heat to the remaining green brush. If there isn't enough density in the pile to push the wood elements together and force any released heat into the evaporation of water out of the adjacent stick of wood, you will be waiting a long time for them to dry out enough so that a spark will make it all go up in flames.

Not quite fresh green, was cut the summer before. But, nothing stopped it from getting soaked by all the snow melt and rain, probably still too wet.

I know how hard it can be to get a wood stove fire going from cold, even when using well seasoned wood, if it's been rained on recently. Takes some nursing, till things heat up and dry out.
 
I would guess that a brush pile from last summer had more than a long enough drying time to burn fairly easily. In general, any brush pile will start easier than a wood stove. Wood stoves must heat up a bit before they have adequate draft to keep the fire hot, and brush piles generally have unlimited draft.

I am surprised your oily rags didn't work, especially with the leaf blower assist. Next time you try, pile some smaller sticks on the oily rags and get a good campfire burning well before you turn it loose on the brush fire. Just have a chainsaw by your side and keep chopping "kindling" off the pile and tossing it onto the "campfire" until it becomes necessary to stand aside due to the heat.

I've got some pretty nice ash firewood we cut down last October. Cut up and split only in January, it burns well now, but ash burns better than most woods.
 
I would guess that a brush pile from last summer had more than a long enough drying time to burn fairly easily. In general, any brush pile will start easier than a wood stove. Wood stoves must heat up a bit before they have adequate draft to keep the fire hot, and brush piles generally have unlimited draft.

I am surprised your oily rags didn't work, especially with the leaf blower assist.
I could no believe it either. Started giving me a complex. Especially as I had to do a lot to that 20 years in storage leaf blower to get it running again.

Next time you try, pile some smaller sticks on the oily rags and get a good campfire burning well before you turn it loose on the brush fire. Just have a chainsaw by your side and keep chopping "kindling" off the pile and tossing it onto the "campfire" until it becomes necessary to stand aside due to the heat.

That seems to be the way it may go. I'll probably "unbuild" the pile first, to dry it out some, then "start small".

I've got some pretty nice ash firewood we cut down last October. Cut up and split only in January, it burns well now, but ash burns better than most woods.

Ash was my favorite, but around here, pretty much all gone. Lots of red oak though. And white pine, but I won't burn that in my stoves.
 
Don't fear the pine firewood. It is no more inclined to gum up your chimney than any other wood. That is a myth.

Furthermore, it starts easier than many other woods and gets the stove (and exhaust gases) hot more quickly. The pine pitch contained in the wood is more volatile than the volatile elements in hardwoods.
Some of the "evergreen" trees even have pretty high BTU's, and compete favorably with other traditional firewood.

Some folks hate the fluffy ashes they make, which I can understand. As with all woods, if the pine doesn't get properly dried, the extra moisture will contribute to making creosote in your chimney, along with adding to the risk of chimney fires.

https://www.timberwolfequip.com/blogs/tw-blog/why-you-can-use-pine-for-firewood

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Your eastern white pine is near the bottom of the list, however. Barely above cottonwood, I'd pass on that stuff too!

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Actually, I've been trying to work up a client into paying for some brush pile burning, but haven't closed a sale yet. The blowers are damned expensive, renting the burner devices is even worse. I'm still working on building a pit and blower system. So far, no sales yet.

It you set a fire in Kansas City, it is a sure thing you will get a visit from the fire department. With no burn permit, they are likely to give you a ticket, too. Getting a burn permit isn't going to happen without you use a clean-burning fire pit blower, and even then there are rules to be followed.

Kansas City really protects its clean air standards. Using a tire to start a fire will get their attention, every time. They will even use the airport to track a fire's location with their radar and then dispatch the fire department. Go ahead! Ask me how I know.
You ever burned a tire in the Kansas City area?
 

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