Dolmar 7900 Report = NICE!, AMICK'S Rave too...

[hydro2]

I feel if Tony wants to ship me a new Dolmar, it is between he and I..
There are a lot of dealers around the US that will ship a buddy or a friend from the net a new saw.
If Baileys was to continue shipping huskies. Do you seriously think Husky is going to pull their plug? How many husky saws did Baileys sell in 2007? I bet it won't be near that number in 2008.If Husky does pull their plug then I see it as bad business for Husky.This country in in a crunch right now.
For the ones on here having saws shipped from various site sponsors.. Keep it to yourself where you got it..Otherwise we are about to ruin a good thing for those that do not have a local dealer.
I would have no problem in buying "slightly used or demos" from a dealership.Just my 2 cents from Indiana

Yea I agree, if you get a saw shipped, keep your mouth shut!

 

[dugide]

Thanks Buck for your contribution so we can feed the family and send my daughter to College. We thank everyone for the business they send our way.


We have Dolmar parts available online if you need any. Thanks Tony

forget dolmar, sell stihl on line, you'll be able to send your daughter to yale.

 

[hydro2]

Well, I called every one of the local dealers that showed on the Dolmar list near my own town and the area we shop at in NH... This was about a dozen shops. Two couldn't be bothered to return a phone call. I don't think any of them had a 7900 in stock. One said he'd sold lots of the 6400's and 7300's, but didn't remember ever selling a 7900 (so much for "experienced local service?) - the closest in price was also closest to me, but wanted over $100 more for just the powerhead than Tony was selling the 7900 w/ a 20" bar and chain for, (but was real anxious to sell me a fancy case) plus I would have had to pay an extra $35 to the Beacon Hill gangsters - (Tony wanted $20 for Fred's Ex) Most of the "official" dealers wanted MORE than my local lawnmower guy, who is not a dealer but could get one through his distributor...

I generally PREFER to deal locally, but I also look for a reasonably competetive price - 5-10%, including the difference between the shipping and the local-shopping penalty is my usual margin that I'm willing to pay extra for local shopping, this wasn't even close.

I gave the local dealer a chance to price match, WITHOUT saying anything about "on-line" - just that I'd had a better price elsewhere and was he willing to bend a bit... No Go!

I debated with myself whether it would still be better to get the local dealer even at the higher price. I decided that the ONLY thing the local dealer really offered was possibly better warranty service - Once out of warranty, it doesn't seem to me like there is any restriction on where I take the saw, or any real advantage to having dealt with the local shop... I said the Dolmar warranty is only one year, the amount of cutting I do isn't that huge, so the odds of me needing service are pretty low, so it was worth the risk.

I didn't price shop locally for a new Stihl or Husky, as I found several dealers that listed prices (for local pickup only) and they weren't anywhere close to what I could afford, so I didn't think it was worthwhile.

I was also looking at used saws. I could probably have gotten a used saw from one or two AS members that were advertising in the trading post, probably a Stihl, but the price being asked was only a little less than what Tony wanted for the new Dolmar 7900, so it was worth it to me to spend the extra in order to avoid the potential risks of purchasing used...

So, while I'm glad I got in under the wire on the new saw, what would have been different if I hadn't? - Well, I was maxing out my budget purchasing the 7900 from Tony, so the local dealer probably would NOT have gotten the sale either way, so Dolmar didn't help the local dealer by shutting Tony down. I probably would have ended up with a used saw, and given the relative numbers of saws in the used market, it wouldn't have been a Dolmar - so Dolmar would have lost the chance to sell me ANY saw, and whatever benefit I give Tony (or ALL the local dealers) by posting my positive opinions about them... Given that the most effective advertisement is a happy customer, and there are LOTS of people still out there that DON'T shop on-line, preventing on-line bargain sales hurts both Dolmar overall, and the local dealers who don't get the potential out of warranty service business or the new sales from the customers that are willing to pay extra to shop locally...

FWIW, I have just left a message to this effect on Dolmar USA's website, and may give them a call tomorrow.

Gooserider

I left an e-mail similar to yours on Husky's website and never even heard back from them. I hope thier profits go down the old crapper. That will wake them up.

 

[Gooserider]

I left an e-mail similar to yours on Husky's website and never even heard back from them. I hope thier profits go down the old crapper. That will wake them up.

Some ways I agree, but at the same time I want the company to do well, as it's a pain getting parts for anything made by a company that's out of business... Not to mention that they are making good saws.

Gooserider

 

[Dapper Dan]

A little while back, I was asking advice on picking a saw, and thanks to everyone here, ended up getting a Dolmar 7900, w/ the 20" bar, plus a spare 28" bar for the occasional bigger wood, a bunch of chains and some other stuff.

I found that the local dealers were not even close to competive, and ended up getting my saw from Amick's Superstore, talking with Tony. Amick's gave WONDERFUL service, according to the Fedex tracker, my stuff shipped w/in two hours after I ordered it, and it got to my house about 2 days sooner than I was really expecting it... The only bummer is that Dolmar doesn't do as good a job of boxing their saws as they could, and the saw got bounced around a bit in the box, and the plastic chain brake lever was broken... (The second box with the rest of my stuff in it was nicely packed and arrived in perfect shape.)

I called Tony when I discovered this, and caught him just before closing. No arguements, just "What can we do to make it right?" - I agreed that it would probably be easiest if he could send me a replacement brake lever, as he said it was an easy part to change. He said they didn't have a new lever in stock, but that he would pull one off a new saw and ship it to me in the morning. I got the new part, again in excellent time, and Tony had even thrown in a $10 bill for my troubles. I didn't take him up on his offer to give him a call to walk me through changing it, (and should have - as I ended up doing it the hard way) but I appreciated it. Definitely I want to give Amick's and Tony a big hand for going "above and beyond" in the name of customer satisfaction!

On to the saw itself... Easy to work on, for the little bit of work I've had to do (mostly mounting and adjusting the bar) and the little bit of taking things apart to see how they went together that I've done. The side access chain adjuster is quick and easy to use.

It was a :censored: to start the first time - probably a combo of my not knowing the best starting drill and needing to pull gas out of the tank and fill the empty fuel system, etc... Once I got it started the first time, it hasn't been a problem since. The decompression button makes a BIG difference! Mash the button and it's an easy pull, forget it and the saw really fights back.

I made an early report on my first time out and another poster gave me some advice on the best starting drill, and it's been a 1-2 pull start ever since, maybe 3 pulls on a stone cold engine.

I'm currently running on a Stihl orange "one-shot" bottle of oil mixed a bit rich - 0.9 gallons of gas instead of 1.0, and using Exxon Premium gas.

The saw is incredibly smooth running - at idle it's got a tiny bit of shake to it, but less than my Poulan has at any speed. When I give it the gas, it smooths out to the point where except for the noise it feels like it's not running...

It cuts incredibly well, no effort needed other than pick it up, put it on the log, pull the trigger and catch it when the saw falls out the other side... A few times it has seemed less prone to getting stuck than my little saw if the cut started to close up on me, as the big engine kept the chain spinning so I could cut out. (I'm using the Oregon full chipper chain that Amick's sells with that saw)

I have had a couple times where cutting up from the underside of a log with the top of the bar it would finish the cut and the log ends coming down would knock the chain off the bar - When this happens it seriously buggers up the tangs on the drive links. I've been cleaning up the burrs with a stone in a Dremel tool, which works, but is awfully slow - is there a better / faster way to do this?

Overall I'm delighted with the saw - I haven't had to adjust anything on it, as it came out of the box everything JUST WORKS! and it works well.

Can't comment on longevity, as I'm only on my second or third tank of gas, but so far it's been great.

Gooserider

Goose.... Just in case you haven't figured it out, already....

I suspect you just "cooked the goose" on any future online sales of Dolmars.
(Some things are better kept to yourself!)

 

[2000ssm6]

I suspect you just "cooked the goose" on any future online sales of Dolmars.
(Some things are better kept to yourself!)

LOL! Not that I can't drive 45 minutes and see Tony but who was the rat?:spam:

 

[hydro2]

Some ways I agree, but at the same time I want the company to do well, as it's a pain getting parts for anything made by a company that's out of business... Not to mention that they are making good saws.

Gooserider

Yea you have got a point.

 

[Gooserider]

I hope that wasn't the case Dan, it certainly wasn't my intent, as I think that having online sales is a good thing...

However I frankly doubt it, as I am FAR from the first person to mention Amick's saw sales on this forum, not to mention that they were openly advertising on their website, with stated prices...

While I found Amick's myself when Googling for the Dolmar factory website, some of the mentions here helped convince me that they were good folks to deal with. Out of curiositiy I just tried Googling for "Dolmar Chainsaw" Amick's was the FIRST listing, with a message that sounded like sales, and I saw at least two more links onto their store before finding Dolmar USA (on page 4)

I also saw at least a couple of threads talking about online saw sales in the AS Amick's store forum - so I was far from the only person that "spilled the beans" - So I don't really think I was a key factor...

Gooserider

 

[ciscoguy01]

Sweet!!!!!!!!

Nice brotha. Welcome eh? About your thrown chains. First thing you gotta realize is you need to keep your chain SUPER tight on the 7900. It took me a bit to get used to it, cause it spins so much faster than the old saws... As for how tight, if your running the stock Oregon LG chains, they loosen up quite a bit for the first 2-3 tightenings, then they hold up well. An example of how tight is when you can't lift the drivers on the bottom of the chain more than 3/4 of the way out of the bar. I know it seems a little excessive, but if you don't you'll have to deal with those boogers on the driver links. Now, about those boogers. Easiest way I've found to get rid of them is to seat the chain in the bar as best you can, and as tight as you can, they won't all fit back in the groove, tighten everything up, rev the heck out of it 3 or 4 times, loosen and re-tighten chain, maybe one more time and your good to go. Sounds like a long process, but really it's just a couple min and about 10x's faster than the Dremel on the drive links... I've had it happen to me several times also, you have to really watch your chain when it gets the least bit loose you need to re-tighten ASAP!!!! Good luck and enjoy that saw bro. I know I love mine.

eh?opcorn:

 

[Pissfirwillie]

Who's the Rat?

My bet is on another Dolmar dealer. Nothing pisses off a dealer more than someone selling the same product for less. So much for competition! It's the European way!

 

[Gooserider]

Thanks for the suggestion Cisco, I was planning on tightening up my chain anyway after looking at all the "no sag / no drag" threads, sounds like you're saying I need to be even on the high side of that standard? I'm a bit surprised as to why you say it's a function of how fast the 7900 moves the chain though, as it doesn't seem to be all that high of an RPM saw at 12,500 max when the 5100 is turning 14,000 and some of the Huskys are doing 13,500 per some of the specs pages I was looking at - is the 7900 using a higher gear ratio sprocket or something?

Will say I'm not so sure about the method you suggest for dealing with the drive link boogers, I'm sure it works, but what does it do to the groove in the bar? Seems like that groove wants to get wider anyway, how much does jamming that over width bur into it damage the groove? I would think that at least taking the worst of the boogers off with a file or Dremel would help prolong the bar life (and bars are more expensive than chains...)

Gooserider

Nice brotha. Welcome eh? About your thrown chains. First thing you gotta realize is you need to keep your chain SUPER tight on the 7900. It took me a bit to get used to it, cause it spins so much faster than the old saws... As for how tight, if your running the stock Oregon LG chains, they loosen up quite a bit for the first 2-3 tightenings, then they hold up well. An example of how tight is when you can't lift the drivers on the bottom of the chain more than 3/4 of the way out of the bar. I know it seems a little excessive, but if you don't you'll have to deal with those boogers on the driver links. Now, about those boogers. Easiest way I've found to get rid of them is to seat the chain in the bar as best you can, and as tight as you can, they won't all fit back in the groove, tighten everything up, rev the heck out of it 3 or 4 times, loosen and re-tighten chain, maybe one more time and your good to go. Sounds like a long process, but really it's just a couple min and about 10x's faster than the Dremel on the drive links... I've had it happen to me several times also, you have to really watch your chain when it gets the least bit loose you need to re-tighten ASAP!!!! Good luck and enjoy that saw bro. I know I love mine.

eh?opcorn:

 

[ericjeeper]

Thanks for the suggestion Cisco, I was planning on tightening up my chain anyway after looking at all the "no sag / no drag" threads, sounds like you're saying I need to be even on the high side of that standard? I'm a bit surprised as to why you say it's a function of how fast the 7900 moves the chain though, as it doesn't seem to be all that high of an RPM saw at 12,500 max when the 5100 is turning 14,000 and some of the Huskys are doing 13,500 per some of the specs pages I was looking at - is the 7900 using a higher gear ratio sprocket or something?

Will say I'm not so sure about the method you suggest for dealing with the drive link boogers, I'm sure it works, but what does it do to the groove in the bar? Seems like that groove wants to get wider anyway, how much does jamming that over width bur into it damage the groove? I would think that at least taking the worst of the boogers off with a file or Dremel would help prolong the bar life (and bars are more expensive than chains...)

Gooserider

7900 is rev limited at 13,500 I have only thrown a chain 3 times and each time I changed it and took the dremel to it as it was really snookered up on several drive links.

 

[Urbicide]

Goose.... Just in case you haven't figured it out, already....

I suspect you just "cooked the goose" on any future online sales of Dolmars.
(Some things are better kept to yourself!)

+1. I am sure Goose had all of the best intentions in mind when he talked up Tony. It reminds me of the time when my oldest cousin's husband took me for a ride to dry off his 67 Impala after washing it. I was right about 10 years old and we were visiting relatives in rural Michigan. When we got back to the house I was all excited and prouidly told my parents that " We went a hundred miles an hour!" (This was from a standing start) They were not as thrilled as I was. This also reminds me what happens when someone posts Stihl manuals, etc, and the next thing you know is that they are gone.

 

[sugarbush]

Edge and Engine... I won't beat around the bush. Did you rat Tony out?

Ian

they may have ratted themself out, along with a bunch of satisfied customers that couldn't keep there mouth shut about the great deal from a great guy. there's a rep from dolmar thats been a member on this site for quite awhile. some of these on-line dealers were getting pretty bold and I would think sooner or later get shut down.

when I first started with dolmar I shipped one saw and because of a little good natured chatter, It got back to dolmar and was told it was not allowed. but i knew that, just thought who's going to know. I'm suprized some of these people got away with it as long as they did. I don't think it's worth jeopardizing your dealership to ship a few saw's when there's not a lot of profit in them to start with.

 

[ciscoguy01]

Thanks for the suggestion Cisco, I was planning on tightening up my chain anyway after looking at all the "no sag / no drag" threads, sounds like you're saying I need to be even on the high side of that standard? I'm a bit surprised as to why you say it's a function of how fast the 7900 moves the chain though, as it doesn't seem to be all that high of an RPM saw at 12,500 max when the 5100 is turning 14,000 and some of the Huskys are doing 13,500 per some of the specs pages I was looking at - is the 7900 using a higher gear ratio sprocket or something?

Will say I'm not so sure about the method you suggest for dealing with the drive link boogers, I'm sure it works, but what does it do to the groove in the bar? Seems like that groove wants to get wider anyway, how much does jamming that over width bur into it damage the groove? I would think that at least taking the worst of the boogers off with a file or Dremel would help prolong the bar life (and bars are more expensive than chains...)

Gooserider

7900 Turns 13,500 out of box, 5100 is at 14,500. As for the bar and widening, the chain has to be super loose when your doing it, and you should NEVER rev it to full throttle, merely rev to let the chain flow across the top of the bar... It's actually the friction of going into the drive sprocket that deburrs the boogered up drive links. For how loose??? I'd say the chain sits about 1" below the bottom of the bar for looseness. For reducing life of the bar, I dunno, I use GB Titanium bars and have been doing this for 2 yrs w/not a single problem. Course now I'm more adiment about keeping my chain tight so I haven't really had a problem with it coming off as of recently... It was merely a suggestion on how I deal with that issue. It's faster for me when I'm in the woods to fix it like that then to put a whole new chain on and go through the whole retightening process etc...

eh?

 

[ciscoguy01]

Dealers Shipping Dolmars

I will say I wonder how some dealers feel about not being able to ship saws... I've had to drive nearly 2 hrs each way to pick up my saws due to the shipping issue... Scott and Steve??? What are you guys thinking about this?? Not to be a troublemaker, but it'd seem they'd make more money if they could ALL ship eh?

opcorn:

 

[mountain_man]

I will say I wonder how some dealers feel about not being able to ship saws... I've had to drive nearly 2 hrs each way to pick up my saws due to the shipping issue... Scott and Steve??? What are you guys thinking about this?? Not to be a troublemaker, but it'd seem they'd make more money if they could ALL ship eh?

opcorn:

I have to say I want to know too. I also must drive at least two hours to find a dolmar dealer or a saw shop I trust for that matter. I would like to receive the saw through the mail if I ship. I mean if I order through a dealer they can't even ship it to me. That's bogus as well.

 

[sugarbush]

I have to say I want to know too. I also must drive at least two hours to find a dolmar dealer or a saw shop I trust for that matter. I would like to receive the saw through the mail if I ship. I mean if I order through a dealer they can't even ship it to me. That's bogus as well.

there's a way around the shipping restrictions, any dealer can send you a saw if you forgo the warranty. Dolmar could care less how many is shipped that way.

 

[Pissfirwillie]

I wish all manufacturers shipped

Our crew makes 1 trip a year to our Stihl Dealer, and that is to buy new saws. After that, we mail order all the parts. We spend way more each year on bars, chains, sprockets and parts than the cost of the saw. If we could mail order the saw, we would. If you think shipping is high, try making a two hour round trip to your dealer every two weeks with gas at $3.50 a gallon.

 

[166]

We have one customer that drives 10 hours each way to buy new saws and get repairs. He's originally from here but moved to Ohio a few years ago. He comes up a couple times a year to get parts, a new saw or two, and any major repairs.

Also have a lot of customers that drive in the 2-4 hour range for our service whether it's a dolmar, redmax, ventrac, steiner, ferris, giantvac, or timberwolf.