Homelite Chainsaws

[JRHAWK9]

Oiler problem with LX30 Bandit

Hi guys, I just picked up a NOS LX30 Bandit. It was never started and essentially looks like I just took it out of the box. I put gas/oil mix in it and filled the bar oil up and it started right up. The problem is it doesn't want to oil. I took it apart to see if I could see what the issue is. The tank has a duckbill on it and a hose goes from the bottom of the tank, thru a hole at the top, and straight to a nipple on the bar. No pumps, no primer bulbs, no pressure hose, no other nipples to connect a pressure line to....nothing. How is it supposed to build pressure?? :msp_confused: It is model number UT10705. -HERE- is the IPL for it, as you can see it only calls for one line, which is the bar supply line. :confused2:

Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Paul

EDIT: I just figured out the saw is not a auto oiler and it came w/o the proper oiler cap. Any idea of where to get the proper cap or if I can convert it into an auto oiler?

 

[fossil]

My Homelite XL-902AM Saw. Remeber the movie Christine about the car?

This is one interesting saw. I bought it and put a new pump side diaphram and fuel line in and it ran really strong but had an air leak. Pressure and vacuum tested it and it came up rock solid. The carb throttle shaft was worn down about .020 on one side so I figured that was it. I have a shaft on order but I thought I might as well try to build up the shaft with JB Weld and give it a try.
I go to start it and no spark. The switch tested OK so I pulled the flywheel to check the wiring for shorts and the points. All was well so I reset the points gap. There was no Woodruff key in there and I couldn't find one so I made one up this afternoon, and checked for spark. All was OK. I forgot I didn't have the On/Off toggle switch connected so I plugged that in and no spark. I guess the problem was intermittent. That's when the fun started. I figured I would fire it up and kill it with the choke. Wrong! I set the idle mixture screw at 1-1/2 turns out ad the high speed screw at 1-1/4 out and fired it up. The idle speed screw was backed off pretty far. It goes immediately to almost full out so I hit the throttle, no change. I pull the choke out, no change. Both butterflies are closed and it's running at high speed. I put it in a 10" maple round to try and stall it but it has too much torque. I can't put my thumb over the carb venturi because it has a chip screen over it. Now I'm really excited. Finally it quits.

Any ideas what happened? I can see something going on with the fuel but where was it getting air from? I haven't pulled the carb apart yet. It's a Tilly HS.
It was a pretty interesting experience.

Tim

 

[psuiewalsh]

This is one interesting saw. I bought it and put a new pump side diaphram and fuel line in and it ran really strong but had an air leak. Pressure and vacuum tested it and it came up rock solid. The carb throttle shaft was worn down about .020 on one side so I figured that was it. I have a shaft on order but I thought I might as well try to build up the shaft with JB Weld and give it a try.
I go to start it and no spark. The switch tested OK so I pulled the flywheel to check the wiring for shorts and the points. All was well so I reset the points gap. There was no Woodruff key in there and I couldn't find one so I made one up this afternoon, and checked for spark. All was OK. I forgot I didn't have the On/Off toggle switch connected so I plugged that in and no spark. I guess the problem was intermittent. That's when the fun started. I figured I would fire it up and kill it with the choke. Wrong! I set the idle mixture screw at 1-1/2 turns out ad the high speed screw at 1-1/4 out and fired it up. The idle speed screw was backed off pretty far. It goes immediately to almost full out so I hit the throttle, no change. I pull the choke out, no change. Both butterflies are closed and it's running at high speed. I put it in a 10" maple round to try and stall it but it has too much torque. I can't put my thumb over the carb venturi because it has a chip screen over it. Now I'm really excited. Finally it quits.

Any ideas what happened? I can see something going on with the fuel but where was it getting air from? I haven't pulled the carb apart yet. It's a Tilly HS.
It was a pretty interesting experience.

Tim

Had that happen on a dirt bike one time. The carb slide pulled up high enough that the needle pulled out and would not re-enter the main jet. Had to kill it with a 2X4 across the carb inlet.

 

[Eccentric]

Hi guys, I just picked up a NOS LX30 Bandit. It was never started and essentially looks like I just took it out of the box. I put gas/oil mix in it and filled the bar oil up and it started right up. The problem is it doesn't want to oil. I took it apart to see if I could see what the issue is. The tank has a duckbill on it and a hose goes from the bottom of the tank, thru a hole at the top, and straight to a nipple on the bar. No pumps, no primer bulbs, no pressure hose, no other nipples to connect a pressure line to....nothing. How is it supposed to build pressure?? :msp_confused: It is model number UT10705. -HERE- is the IPL for it, as you can see it only calls for one line, which is the bar supply line. :confused2:

Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Paul

EDIT: I just figured out the saw is not a auto oiler and it came w/o the proper oiler cap. Any idea of where to get the proper cap or if I can convert it into an auto oiler?

That saw is an auto-only oiler. Crankcase pressure system. No pump. There should be one line leading from a nipple on the crankcase to the oil tank. There should be a porus bronze connector tube and a duckbill valve on the tank end of this line. A second line runs from the tank pickup screen to the bar pad. The oil tank cap should be unvented. Crankcase pressure pulses pressurize the oil tank, pushing oil out through the discharge line to the bar pad.

This is one interesting saw. I bought it and put a new pump side diaphram and fuel line in and it ran really strong but had an air leak. Pressure and vacuum tested it and it came up rock solid. The carb throttle shaft was worn down about .020 on one side so I figured that was it. I have a shaft on order but I thought I might as well try to build up the shaft with JB Weld and give it a try.
I go to start it and no spark. The switch tested OK so I pulled the flywheel to check the wiring for shorts and the points. All was well so I reset the points gap. There was no Woodruff key in there and I couldn't find one so I made one up this afternoon, and checked for spark. All was OK. I forgot I didn't have the On/Off toggle switch connected so I plugged that in and no spark. I guess the problem was intermittent. That's when the fun started. I figured I would fire it up and kill it with the choke. Wrong! I set the idle mixture screw at 1-1/2 turns out ad the high speed screw at 1-1/4 out and fired it up. The idle speed screw was backed off pretty far. It goes immediately to almost full out so I hit the throttle, no change. I pull the choke out, no change. Both butterflies are closed and it's running at high speed. I put it in a 10" maple round to try and stall it but it has too much torque. I can't put my thumb over the carb venturi because it has a chip screen over it. Now I'm really excited. Finally it quits.

Any ideas what happened? I can see something going on with the fuel but where was it getting air from? I haven't pulled the carb apart yet. It's a Tilly HS.
It was a pretty interesting experience.

Tim

Yikes. Cracked intake block, or one of the carb or intake gaskets is buggered up maybe. You also may not have gotten things together right when you r/r'd the throttle shaft and plate.

 

[67L36Driver]

Yikes. Cracked intake block, or one of the carb or intake gaskets is buggered up maybe. You also may not have gotten things together right when you r/r'd the throttle shaft and plate.

Or, you didn't get the throttle blade centered before you tightened the screw holding it to the shaft. The edge of the blade is also chamfered on an angle to match the throttle bore. You end up with enuff daylight showing that it will run remarkably fast.

B.T.DT.

 

[Eccentric]

Or, you didn't get the throttle blade centered before you tightened the screw holding it to the shaft. The edge of the blade is also chamfered on an angle to match the throttle bore. You end up with enuff daylight showing that it will run remarkably fast.

B.T.DT.

That's what I'm thinking.

 

[JRHAWK9]

That saw is an auto-only oiler. Crankcase pressure system. No pump. There should be one line leading from a nipple on the crankcase to the oil tank. There should be a porus bronze connector tube and a duckbill valve on the tank end of this line. A second line runs from the tank pickup screen to the bar pad. The oil tank cap should be unvented. Crankcase pressure pulses pressurize the oil tank, pushing oil out through the discharge line to the bar pad.

yeah, that's what I thought too, but there's only one line which goes from the tank to the bar pad. There's no nipple on the crankcase. When I look at the IPL for this saw it also shows just one line and a "primer valve" type of cap. -HERE- is a link to a photo of an LX30 Bandit which has the cap I'm referring to. From the little bit I read -HERE-, there are two styles, one with a manual oiler (like I seem to have and what the photo link above shows) and one with an automatic oiler. I also have an XL and this one DOES have the auto oiler and DOES have the 2 line system.

Is there anyway to convert it to a auto oiler?? If not, I will need to find the correct cap for it which will allow me to manually oil the bar.

 

[fossil]

That's what I'm thinking.

That could well be it. The blade is centered but maybe in backwards.

I let you know what I find.

Thanks

Tim

 

[fossil]

Or, you didn't get the throttle blade centered before you tightened the screw holding it to the shaft. The edge of the blade is also chamfered on an angle to match the throttle bore. You end up with enuff daylight showing that it will run remarkably fast.

B.T.DT.

That's what I'm thinking.

You got it! The blade was in with the chamfers on the wrong side.

What would I do without you guys? I just need to find a toggle switch and then I'll try her again.

Thanks a ton. Both of you have some rep.

Tim

 

[67L36Driver]

yeah, that's what I thought too, but there's only one line which goes from the tank to the bar pad. There's no nipple on the crankcase. When I look at the IPL for this saw it also shows just one line and a "primer valve" type of cap. -HERE- is a link to a photo of an LX30 Bandit which has the cap I'm referring to. From the little bit I read -HERE-, there are two styles, one with a manual oiler (like I seem to have and what the photo link above shows) and one with an automatic oiler. I also have an XL and this one DOES have the auto oiler and DOES have the 2 line system.

Is there anyway to convert it to a auto oiler?? If not, I will need to find the correct cap for it which will allow me to manually oil the bar.

The fist picture, the owner has the fuel/oil caps swapped. The primer bulb cap should be on the fuel tank.

Once again with the little red Homie bar oil system scanned from my Clymer book:

Oops, inverted the order.

 

[fossil]

Thank you everyone for the kind words

Thanks for the rep Huck!

Tim

 

[jerrycmorrow]

You got it! The blade was in with the chamfers on the wrong side.

What would I do without you guys? I just need to find a toggle switch and then I'll try her again.

Thanks a ton. Both of you have some rep.

Tim

whodda thunk? when i get too close to a problem i appreciate the unbiased opinions and experience.

 

[JRHAWK9]

The fist picture, the owner has the fuel/oil caps swapped. The primer bulb cap should be on the fuel tank.

Once again with the little red Homie bar oil system scanned from my Clymer book:

Oops, inverted the order.

Yeah, I understand that, as my other XL is setup like that. The LX30 Bandit in question only has a single line running from the tank to the bar mount...that's it. There is no oil pump nor is there any nipple on the crankcase. The IPL for my saw DOES show a part number for the oil cap being a "pump"...see below.

I can take photos tonight and show you guys. It's strange, it's like they forgot something at the factory or something....

 

[67L36Driver]

L.I.B...............................................a little red Homie with a manual oiler.....................................................

 

[JRHAWK9]

L.I.B...............................................a little red Homie with a manual oiler.....................................................

L.I.B.????

Actually, it's a little black Homie...lol but yeah, it seems to be a manual oiler that's missing the manual pressure building device. The way it sits now it's a no-oiler :bang: I guess I could drill a hole in the cover, insert/seal a long hose to it and run the other end to my mouth and give it a blow every once in a awhile Anybody have any ideas of how to get this thing oiling? I ran across -THIS- thread, and it seems he had the same issue. He mentions he "bought an NOS tank kit for the pressurized set up on fleabay. It was cheap and comes with instructions on how to hook it up to the carb" I looked on eBay and couldn't find anything to what he was referring to. I tried registering on the site but the stupid anti-SPAM "CAPTCHA" won't display therefore I can't register.


EDIT: I just found -THIS-....will it work to convert it to a auto oiler?

 

[Eccentric]

L.I.B.????

Actually, it's a little black Homie...lol but yeah, it seems to be a manual oiler that's missing the manual pressure building device. The way it sits now it's a no-oiler :bang: I guess I could drill a hole in the cover, insert/seal a long hose to it and run the other end to my mouth and give it a blow every once in a awhile Anybody have any ideas of how to get this thing oiling? I ran across -THIS- thread, and it seems he had the same issue. He mentions he "bought an NOS tank kit for the pressurized set up on fleabay. It was cheap and comes with instructions on how to hook it up to the carb" I looked on eBay and couldn't find anything to what he was referring to. I tried registering on the site but the stupid anti-SPAM "CAPTCHA" won't display therefore I can't register.


EDIT: I just found -THIS-....will it work to convert it to a auto oiler?

Man that's something. I never know that they made a 'manual oiler only' version of these saws by omitting the fitting on the crankcase, the pressure line, the connector, and the duckbill.................and fitting that stupid 'primer' type fuel cap on the oil tank.

I think you just need to get the crankcase fitting (or source something similar from some place like McMaster-Karr), drill and tap your crankcase for that fitting (if it doesn't already have a tapped hole with a plug in it), drill a second hole in your oil tank, run a line from your new fitting into the oil tank, and put a length of brass tube (or the bronze 'connector') and a duckbill on the end of that line inside the tank.

 

[CodyWayne718]

Can someone point me in the right direction? Awhile back I started a thread titled What's it worth. It was about an old homelite xl925 that my uncle had. I traded him something for it and need a manual or something to make sure I run the right stuff in it and all that jazz. It's much appreciated.

 

[homelitejim]

Can someone point me in the right direction? Awhile back I started a thread titled What's it worth. It was about an old homelite xl925 that my uncle had. I traded him something for it and need a manual or something to make sure I run the right stuff in it and all that jazz. It's much appreciated.

I run Husky XP 2 stroke oil in 92 octain unleaded gas mixed 40:1, I use this mix in all my saws from 1953 to 2012. I use summer weight bar oil in summer and winter weight in winter, usually Husky XP bar oil, summer weight has a white cap and winter weight has a orange cap. Other than that I would clean it thoroughly before you run it as years of oil, saw dust, and dirt have probably built up in the nooks and crannys and will cause the saw to overheat, then keep it clean by blowing it out with compressed air after every use. Drain the fluids if you are to store it for extended periods.

 

[fossil]

Manuals

Can someone point me in the right direction? Awhile back I started a thread titled What's it worth. It was about an old homelite xl925 that my uncle had. I traded him something for it and need a manual or something to make sure I run the right stuff in it and all that jazz. It's much appreciated.

PM sent re manuals

 

[CodyWayne718]

PM sent re manuals

Thanks