BDM53ENT
ArboristSite Operative
This thread is terrible for CAD. Been wanting a nice XL12 and now I want a bow saw :bang:
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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sawbones
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cant recall anything about intelligence there but somebody wanted one and somebody else
had one and would not sell it and then all hail broke loose.
Kinda like the modern day middle east.
I had this one sitting out here but it got so nasty I just kept clear of the whole mess.
In the end I think everyone learned a lesson.
410
need some advice or the benefit of individual or collective wisdom.
got my 410 down the other day to use and couldn't get it to idle down. obviously some type of air leak. my ipl is pretty fuzzy so i'm gonna ask.
does this saw have a boot between the carb and the block? if so, does it have the same issue with the boot cracking as the 330? or should i go directly to the seals?
thanks
need some advice or the benefit of individual or collective wisdom.
got my 410 down the other day to use and couldn't get it to idle down. obviously some type of air leak. my ipl is pretty fuzzy so i'm gonna ask.
does this saw have a boot between the carb and the block? if so, does it have the same issue with the boot cracking as the 330? or should i go directly to the seals?
thanks
These people seem to have the clearest Homelite IPL's
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
i've come up with three full/partial saws that don't run. they are an E-Z, E-Z Auto, and a Super E-Z Auto (i think, depends on how accurate my piston measurements were through the exhaust port). hoping to make one and maybe two saws out of the group. the E-Z is locked up but has lots of parts.
Wondering if all of these saws are points type ignitions (note: some parts missing and they're dirty enough so there's not sufficient clues regarding the question) or if at some point during production the maker sequed into pointless ignitions?
i've been searching for quit a while and still don't know. all the ipl's indicate points type so that's what i'm thinking except that the E-Z Auto had a blue coil (fried) with no lead from where the points would be (haven't pulled the flywheel yet to see if there are any points) and the Super had a lead from the coil except no points.
clear as mud?
any comments?
Wondering if all of these saws are points type ignitions (note: some parts missing and they're dirty enough so there's not sufficient clues regarding the question) or if at some point during production the maker sequed into pointless ignitions?
i've been searching for quit a while and still don't know. all the ipl's indicate points type so that's what i'm thinking except that the E-Z Auto had a blue coil (fried) with no lead from where the points would be (haven't pulled the flywheel yet to see if there are any points) and the Super had a lead from the coil except no points.
clear as mud?
any comments?
thanks. looks like its to the seals i go.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Hey guys. I'm compiling some info on poulans that have nla bearings and seals. Anyone have any #s for homies?
I'm in need of #s for a super E-Z ao now, but would love to add to my info pile for any other saws you know off hand. Thanks.
-kris
I'm in need of #s for a super E-Z ao now, but would love to add to my info pile for any other saws you know off hand. Thanks.
-kris
Mr. Bow Saw
Addicted to ArboristSite
I dont know what it is. :cool2:
Its a generator, but yours is missing parts.
Vintage RARE Military US Army Generator for Homelite Collection 1966 Vietnam Era | eBay
torinocobra
ArboristSite Operative
Soooo.....what did you find out? Have you had time to check into it? Did you end up getting any of the parts you needed from the rush of nos parts that were auctioned?
bump
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Never got back out to the shop. Tied up with family stuff and then back to work. Will get back in there tomorrow. Nothing from ebay either.
They did indeed switch over to electronic ignitions. The E I saws don't have the points cam lobe on the crankshaft, so switching from E I to points involves a crank swap. The E I saws have the dreaded 'blue coil' ignition system, as suffered with on later XL-12/SXL-AO's and Pioneer Farmsaws. Aftermarket replacement (and NOS) blue coils can be had for around $60. Ouch. I have a dead blue coil saw, and am going to try a blue coil from a parts saw. If that blue coil is also dead, I'm going to swap a points coil and a Nova II/Atom type 'points elimination' module on to the saw.
will the p&c from the E-Z, EZ Auto, and the SEZA swap out? if so, looking for a points style ignition setup.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Yes it will.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
I have 3 fried super e-z autos complete. What all do you need.
far as i know right now i need the complete points/condenser/coil assembly. might need the starter spring and pulley but don't know yet. since my eza is and electronic i'm gonna put the p&c on the locked up E-Z (hopefully). the starter assembly looks pretty cruddy, haven't been able to pull the starter yet. let me do some more checking.
Blue coil
I could use an electronic (blue) coil if you have one to spare. A west coast full wrap would be awesome Too of course!!
Regards,
Lee
I could use an electronic (blue) coil if you have one to spare. A west coast full wrap would be awesome Too of course!!
Regards,
Lee
torinocobra
ArboristSite Operative
My new years resolution. Last years though. I think the end I near, I'm going to clear on the first. I still have to figure out how to make the handlebar look nice. Any suggestions for dents and dings and deep scratches? View attachment 270563View attachment 270564View attachment 270565
Cool!
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Looks fantastic, just like your previous work. What paints did you use there? Also, have you repainted any of the metalic blue Homelites? Would love to see your work on those, and hear what paint you used in that case.
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torinocobra
ArboristSite Operative
Hey thanks. This paint is PPG MTK Acrylic urethane, and this is the first saw I have ever painted that wasn't with a rattle can. That is because the opalescent green couldn't be matched, so I had to have it made. The red seems to carry through to the 1980s except the stuff from the 50s seems to be eggshell and later stuff is semi gloss. This is coming from comparing a few nos parts from the different years. The MTK is a single stage which can have a flattening agent added, or can be cleared for up to 7 days which works out nice with decals. That is about all I know cause that's all the paper says :redface: It is a lower price paint from my local knowledgeable auto paint store. Seemed to go ok. By the way, I sandblasted parts that sat for a long time and got light surface corrosion. I cleaned them up in POR prep and ready for a couple minutes and that worked well. It is reusable and I only lost maybe 10% of the quart. It also didn't affect the jb weld filler that I used.
