How to use your saws sights

[BarkBuster20]

i bet a laser site on the powerhead would work well.

 

[smokechase II]

Fireline

"how do you get into that i wanna cut on fireline."

To get on the fireline is one thing.

To get on the fireline as a cutter takes a lot more.

===============

Just a quick thought.
You'd want it to be hard to get on.
Timber falling - one of the more dangerous jobs in the world.
Add recently burnt trees or roots to the above.
Make it in the unhealthy forests of the Western US where there is already the same number of dead trees as dollars in our national debt clock. (Both are still going up briskly.)

================

You have to have 4 or maybe 5 years commercial falling. Not thinning, not firewooding, not arboristing but cutting timber or been certified as a C faller by an Agency.

Additionally, Most of these module outfits are real picky. Picky about their fuel, their saws, their buddies, their trucks and yes their cutters.

Hard to get on it is young yedi.

==================

Of course, all that could go out the window if you've got an uncle who runs one of these things.

 

[smokechase II]

discussed

"i bet a laser site on the powerhead would work well."

Back a year or so that was chatted here.

There are three sights on a saw. Top, clutch and flywheel sides.
How about one of 'dem laser levels etc etc was the thought.

You can always use a carpenters square.

Beware, the bottom of almost all bars has a slight curve.
(Hence the cut across is not straight.)

Beware, the sighting sticks are meant for fairly large tree diameters.
What do you think? Do shorter sticks or longer sticks have the greatest tendency to error?

 

[Metals406]

"i bet a laser site on the powerhead would work well."

Back a year or so that was chatted here.

There are three sights on a saw. Top, clutch and flywheel sides.
How about one of 'dem laser levels etc etc was the thought.

You can always use a carpenters square.

Beware, the bottom of almost all bars has a slight curve.
(Hence the cut across is not straight.)

Beware, the sighting sticks are meant for fairly large tree diameters.
What do you think? Do shorter sticks or longer sticks have the greatest tendency to error?

I would think gunning sticks would really come into use on stumps 5'+. . . Anything under that should be easily gunned using other techniques.

I've noticed a lot of guys want to rush through a larger diameter tree, like it's a 12" tree. . . Two different worlds there.

It's funny to watch someone rush through a tree, and really bugger things up. . . Mismatched face to backcut, prematurely cut (or real uneven) hold-wood, dutchman (accidentally). . . Rushing through a face and backcut is a real good way to smash something up.

I'm currently teaching my BIL proper felling technique, with all the "hows" and "whys". . . He wants to just "drop the tree". . . He's also learning tension vs. compression--it's funny, I'll let him stick his bar while bucking, and then explain why it happened, then I'll cut him out. If he pays attention, he should be a fairly safe and efficient faller within a few years. Tree's don't care if you're on a crew, or out getting firewood, the reactive forces are all the same.

 

[Greystoke]

"i bet a laser site on the powerhead would work well."

Back a year or so that was chatted here.

There are three sights on a saw. Top, clutch and flywheel sides.
How about one of 'dem laser levels etc etc was the thought.

You can always use a carpenters square.

Beware, the bottom of almost all bars has a slight curve.
(Hence the cut across is not straight.)

Beware, the sighting sticks are meant for fairly large tree diameters.
What do you think? Do shorter sticks or longer sticks have the greatest tendency to error?

Yes most chainsaw bars have a curve, especially the longer ones. I have an old rebuilt 54" General bar and it has some significant belly in it; that is why when gunning with it I make an imaginary straight line down the center of the bar and line that up with each corner of my undercut(like metals said, carpentry skill for being able to see straight and plumb lines is a good thing when falling timber). As far as the gunsticks...def. meant for bigger timber, and I would think the longer gunsticks would be more accurate, as long as you could hold em steady while gunning. I know someone is going to patent my laser sights someday. Just like my pump-up cork boots!

 

[Greystoke]

"how do you get into that i wanna cut on fireline."

To get on the fireline is one thing.

To get on the fireline as a cutter takes a lot more.

===============

Just a quick thought.
You'd want it to be hard to get on.
Timber falling - one of the more dangerous jobs in the world.
Add recently burnt trees or roots to the above.
Make it in the unhealthy forests of the Western US where there is already the same number of dead trees as dollars in our national debt clock. (Both are still going up briskly.)

================

You have to have 4 or maybe 5 years commercial falling. Not thinning, not firewooding, not arboristing but cutting timber or been certified as a C faller by an Agency.

Additionally, Most of these module outfits are real picky. Picky about their fuel, their saws, their buddies, their trucks and yes their cutters.

Hard to get on it is young yedi.

==================

Of course, all that could go out the window if you've got an uncle who runs one of these things.

Northwest Timber Fallers sounds like a good outfit. I have worked with the Ladies Husband who runs that outfit. Great people, and I am glad that they started something like that. It is nice to see that there is somewhere that a good Timber Faller can go and put their skills to use.

 

[Metals406]

Yes most chainsaw bars have a curve, especially the longer ones. I have an old rebuilt 54" General bar and it has some significant belly in it; that is why when gunning with it I make an imaginary straight line down the center of the bar and line that up with each corner of my undercut(like metals said, carpentry skill for being able to see straight and plumb lines is a good thing when falling timber). As far as the gunsticks...def. meant for bigger timber, and I would think the longer gunsticks would be more accurate, as long as you could hold em steady while gunning. I know someone is going to patent my laser sights someday. Just like my pump-up cork boots!

Okay, this I got to hear. . . Like the old pump tennis shoes?

 

[BarkBuster20]

i dont have an uncle to hook me up....or even know anyone... ####ing #### im gonna be to beat to hell to cut on fireline by the time i aquire the experience and hookups for that. :censored:

 

[Greystoke]

Okay, this I got to hear. . . Like the old pump tennis shoes?

You bet! My buddies used to make fun of me for that one too. I experimented with this Idea my first year in Alaska. I was wearing Wesco's and they would get wet and stretch every morning, so I would have to stop and lace them up tighter, soo...I cut the tongue out of an old pair of Reebok pumps that I had; inserted them in my boots on the front of my ankle and laced up my boots. When they would start feeling loose, I would reach down and pump em up...it was great! I also did not get marks on the front of my ankles anymore from having my boots laced up so tight. Eventually though my air bags started leaking, so I gave up on em. Always wondered why they make "air" shoes but not work boots. My problem of stretchy boot leather was solved when I bought a pair of Kuliens though.

 

[Metals406]

You bet! My buddies used to make fun of me for that one too. I experimented with this Idea my first year in Alaska. I was wearing Wesco's and they would get wet and stretch every morning, so I would have to stop and lace them up tighter, soo...I cut the tongue out of an old pair of Reebok pumps that I had; inserted them in my boots on the front of my ankle and laced up my boots. When they would start feeling loose, I would reach down and pump em up...it was great! I also did not get marks on the front of my ankles anymore from having my boots laced up so tight. Eventually though my air bags started leaking, so I gave up on em. Always wondered why they make "air" shoes but not work boots. My problem of stretchy boot leather was solved when I bought a pair of Kuliens though.

Hmmmm, tis a good idea. You should take it to Nicks, or Wesco, or?? And have them make a prototype.

Comfortable work boots are a must when on your feet all day.

 

[slowp]

On the boots, I'd like the calks to be retractable too. Push a button and in or out they go!

Becoming a faller on a fire crew is not easy, nor should it be. It used to be anybody who could carry a saw could get hired on a fire. Crews used to come out of the bars and get hired too. But people got hurt and killed.
If you want to do it, first get on a crew. Ask around the DNR or Forest Service for info. There's lots of contract crews out there. You'll have to start out as a grunt, or gruntesse, and dig line. To become a faller is going to take skill and knowhow which equals falling for a few years. Our C fallers are good to watch. They've worked together for 25 years too. That should give you an idea of the skill you need to have. It takes patience, grasshopper. Patience and research on YOUR part.

 

[Greystoke]

On the boots, I'd like the calks to be retractable too. Push a button and in or out they go!

I wanted that feature when I had drive in caulks and was falling right-of-way in Alaska, as we were walking a lot of shot rock roads. I did try to bungee a strip of leather on the bottoms but it didn't work out too good, although I am sure I would have came up with something, but I sent them back and got screw in caulks instead.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Northwest Timber Fallers sounds like a good outfit. I have worked with the Ladies Husband who runs that outfit. Great people, and I am glad that they started something like that. It is nice to see that there is somewhere that a good Timber Faller can go and put their skills to use.

I am pretty decent friends with Ken Downhill as well, and I work for the competition, North Zone Fallers. They are good people unfortunatly politics make it hard for everyone to get along - no worries on my end though there is enough for everyone.

Anyway, the whole using your sights on your saw is not a science, it is actually really easy long bar or not. It is using your sights while compensating for bellies, leans and specific obstacles that makes it a science.

To many people over think their situations, they are afraid of failure. No books or videos and "C" faller classes are gonna make you a faller - go do it - many of you will find that you could not pack a real fallers gas and while you are still making your retarded conventional cut and your 2 inch step as well as hinge we have already dumped 10 trees and have already cut the fire line.

 

[Metals406]

I wanted that feature when I had drive in caulks and was falling right-of-way in Alaska, as we were walking a lot of shot rock roads. I did try to bungee a strip of leather on the bottoms but it didn't work out too good, although I am sure I would have came up with something, but I sent them back and got screw in caulks instead.

That's what I thought you meant at first, retractable caulks. . . Now that would be awesome! No more changing boots out before and after work.

 

[BarkBuster20]

someday i will get on fireline as a cutter. ill be the best.

 

[smokechase II]

Quick correction

There are plenty of times where a Humboldt or other undercut has merit.

But; general rule is the conventional face - at standing height - is the safest when falling hazard trees.

Two reasons:
1) Looking up is easy,
2) Body posture presents a smaller target.

=============

Key point is

DEATH FROM ABOVE

Staring at your face while bent over is retarded. Most face cuts will not squash you.

+++++++++++++++++++++

Each of you can argue this or watch the argument play out.............

But go out and cut either way and see for yourself which is the best for looking up.

Watch cutters who do one or the other. Study each cutters ability to be aware of overhead hazards within their technique.

======================

It takes less than 2 seconds for an unobstructed object to fall 50 feet and it is going 40 mph when it hits. You depending on a lookout or yourself?

 

[BarkBuster20]

There are plenty of times where a Humboldt or other undercut has merit.

But; general rule is the conventional face - at standing height - is the safest when falling hazard trees.

Two reasons:
1) Looking up is easy,
2) Body posture presents a smaller target.

=============

Key point is

DEATH FROM ABOVE

Staring at your face while bent over is retarded. Most face cuts will not squash you.

+++++++++++++++++++++

Each of you can argue this or watch the argument play out.............

But go out and cut either way and see for yourself which is the best for looking up.

Watch cutters who do one or the other. Study each cutters ability to be aware of overhead hazards within their technique.

======================

It takes less than 2 seconds for an unobstructed object to fall 50 feet and it is going 40 mph when it hits. You depending on a lookout or yourself?

rarely is there a time when its not better to cut at breast height.

 

[smokechase II]

Green

"rarely is there a time when its not better to cut at breast height."

You can be in green healthy stands where there is virtually no danger of anything coming down and the limbs are smaller diameter with lots of obstacles and wind resistance.

Green tree spoiled is good living.

 

[BarkBuster20]

"rarely is there a time when its not better to cut at breast height."

You can be in green healthy stands where there is virtually no danger of anything coming down and the limbs are smaller diameter with lots of obstacles and wind resistance.

Green tree spoiled is good living.

it may just be preference but i find it easier and faster and more convenient to cut at breast height in green healthy timber. no matter how healthy the stand is your prolly gonna run into a few trees with broken tops hangin or big limbs.

 

[palogger]

someday i will get on fireline as a cutter. ill be the best.

im not trying to sound like an a** but somebody sounds a little "cocky". ive seen to many guys that act this way get hurt, because they seem to know it all and dont want to hear advice from anybody. Im not saying i know it all, cause i don't. As my grandfather once told me, the day you quit learning is the day they put you in the ground.

One word of advice i can give is listen to the old timers they know what they are talking about