Is It The Bar or The Chain?

[Husky Joe]

I haven’t used my 16 inch bar in a while and I had some smaller stuff to cut and my 18 inch chain was dull, so I put it on but it seemed like the chain stretched and I couldn’t take up the slack. I stopped at my Husky dealer and they removed a link and it fit perfectly. The chain had a fresh sharpening and I went out hit a big ash and it cut to the left to the point where it couldn’t cut any more. I removed the chain and flipped the bar and it cut to the right at just as sharp and angle. Halfway through the log, it couldn’t go any farther. I remember having a problem a while back and I guess I didn’t think much of it. I’ve been running my 18 inch bar for most of my cutting the last few months. The chain got so hot it was smoking. The bar has cut a lot of wood and looks pretty beat. It’s an Oregon Power Match. Sounds like the bar? If so, any recommendations? I hit Bailey’s website and I’m not sure the Power Match is still made?

 

[KenJax Tree]

What saw? Does the gauge of the chain match the gauge of the bar? Post some pics of them.

 

[HarleyT]

Likely you need a new sprocket, as well as the chain.

 

[HarleyT]

pics....

 

[Husky Joe]

 

[KenJax Tree]

Them rakers look pretty high

 

[Huntaholic]

And the gullet looks REALLY low! If it cut to the left and all you did was flip the bar and it cut to the right, its obviously the bar. BUT that chain looks horrible to be honest.

 

[holeycow]

That chain looks like it’s been rocked on one side. The right side.

Pictures can be deceiving, but your chain looks severely rocked to me. I ruin chains regularly cleaning fenceline and cutting dirty snags (sand, wire, rocks). I’m pretty familiar with that problem, unfortunately.

Yup, that chain is ready for a sharpening; a reshaping sharpening.

 

[Thommo]

The bar might be bent or need dressing if it cuts to the opposite side when you flip the bar

 

[HarleyT]

Pics of that sprocket too!

 

[Husky Joe]

Gents, thanks. I thought more about this and I remember the bar heating up and probably cutting at an angle during the winter a while back. I blamed the “cold weather chain oil” for being too thin. I’m probably just going to treat the old 359 to a new bar and chain combo. I never had much luck with Husqvarna OEM bars; seems like the sprocket takes a crap in a few months. Any suggestions on something similar to that Oregon Power Match? I think I got my money’s worth!

 

[KenJax Tree]

Sugihara and Tsumura bars are nice. Oregon’s quality has gone down.

 

[homemade]

Send that bar to someone who knows how to properly dress the rails (Not somebody that runs it on a bench grinder), and check for straightness. I see it has a replaceable tip. With regular maintenance on dressing the rails and not pinching or bending the bar. You should be able to replace the tip two or three times. I only deem a bar junk when the rails have been lowered enough to cause the drive links to damn near bottom out.

You can get a bar rail dresser and do it your self too. And bar tips can be had for under $20 if you go aftermarket.

 

[CR888]

That's god awful sharpening from a dealer. The hook on that chain would be grabby & ruff as. The bottoms of your tie straps are excessively worn due to cutting with a dull chain or it being too aggressive. You may have (likely) developed a burr along your bar rails. Rakers look untouched since new, given the grinding job my guess is they didn't dress your bar either. Sorry to be negative but there are most likely several problems there all contributing to poor performance. You NEED to learn to file yourself to keep your saws cutting wood. A raker file, a couple of round files/handle and a cheap guide will get you going. Bar needs dressing, rakers need adjustment & proper smooth angles need to be set on the chain. The grinder operator went too deep. But it can all be fixed and cutting straight again should you decide to learn a new skill. While buying a new chain & bar will fix things, without knowledge you'll end up in the same situation. Learn to make what you have cut well & your on your merry way.

 

[Husky Joe]

CR888, I’m the sharpener---and guilty grinder. I have files, Dremel tools, a Timberline sharpener, and a Harbor Fright bench grinder. I do okay sharpening by hand but there comes a time when it seems like the bench grinder is the way to go.

Homemade, I’ll look into a bar rail dresser. Is a flat metal file out of the question?

KenJax, I will look into those bars. Thanks!

 

[Deleted member 117362]

CR888, I’m the sharpener---and guilty grinder. I have files, Dremel tools, a Timberline sharpener, and a Harbor Fright bench grinder. I do okay sharpening by hand but there comes a time when it seems like the bench grinder is the way to go.

Homemade, I’ll look into a bar rail dresser. Is a flat metal file out of the question?

KenJax, I will look into those bars. Thanks!

It can be done with a flat file, just make sure not to rock it side to side and clean up edges. That chain needs some attention, as mentioned.

 

[CR888]

I just use a raker file to dress bars, any flat file will do, or even sanding disc, sandpaper on block your finger nail will find the burrs. Also do the rails as they can develop burrs/flat spots. A bar with true rails should stand up on its side when placed on a flat surface & not fall over, you can look down the rails like a gun sight outside into light to see how straight it is. A new chain or single cutter makes for a good visual guide on how a ground/filed cutter should end up looking when done. The side plate hook should have a slight shape like, (

 

[Andyshine77]

I flat file will work if you know what you're doing, but if the bar is really messed up it will be a PITA without a guide. It's not really about removing the burr, but squaring the bar up, the top of the bar should be a perfect 90° to the side of the bar, get that right and the burr should fall off on it's own for the most part. On a flat surface the bar should easily stand up, if not one side of the rail is lower than the other. You're chain, from what I can see is pretty messed up, as others have pointed out. Get yourself a simple file guide, do a little research, watch some videos and take your time. That big hole in that muffler is completely pointless if you're running a chain like that, chain is way more important than all the power in the world.

 

[Okie]

I haven’t used my 16 inch bar in a while and I had some smaller stuff to cut and my 18 inch chain was dull, so I put it on but it seemed like the chain stretched and I couldn’t take up the slack. I stopped at my Husky dealer and they removed a link and it fit perfectly. The chain had a fresh sharpening and I went out hit a big ash and it cut to the left to the point where it couldn’t cut any more. I removed the chain and flipped the bar and it cut to the right at just as sharp and angle. Halfway through the log, it couldn’t go any farther. I remember having a problem a while back and I guess I didn’t think much of it. I’ve been running my 18 inch bar for most of my cutting the last few months. The chain got so hot it was smoking. The bar has cut a lot of wood and looks pretty beat. It’s an Oregon Power Match. Sounds like the bar? If so, any recommendations? I hit Bailey’s website and I’m not sure the Power Match is still made?

Mentions a 16 inch bar?

Mentions a 18 inch bar?

Old chain WAS previously smoking

Old replacement 18 inch chain had to have link removed to fit a ?? length bar? (that was previously smoking)


Flipping bar makes the OLD sad looking chain cut the opposite direction and the chain/bar got so hot it was smoking.

IMHO: You need to at very least FIRST make a test cut with a good new chain. I would also immediately check for proper oiler operation. A bad/weak oiler will ruin all the new stuff very fast.

And don't put a new chain on a worn out clutch sprocket.

 

[HarleyT]

Yeah, I have a feeling that his sprocket is wore out, but he didn't put up a pic of it.