Don't really have the tools to port it, but I probably will smooth of the exhaust port. Ron
That'll still help.
You will probably see a big casting flash in the port, that almost looks like a flange... that's what I ground down. If you were to look inside the cylinder at the port, you will see the original metal bevel that was left there at the factory, I left that alone, as modifying it would basically mean I raised the port. I just took a little sandpaper and smoothed it out a little to make the casting bumps smaller. It worked.
Also, for installing the piston with new rings... that was easy... if I had made sure I got ALL of the carbon out of the ring grooves... I failed to do so, and that caused some problems. So, clean grooves are mandatory.
You can simply coat the bearings, piston and rings thoroughly in oil and set it in the cylinder as close to level as possible.
Then tap it in with a soft faced hammer. Alternate sides as you are tapping, I did two taps a side, switching every two taps.
I have a fancy Snap-Off
piston installation hammer, it worked really well. Any soft faced (plastic, rubber) hammer will work. I installed the piston and crank together as an assembly... I did not take the connecting rod off the crank.
I put it together and made sure it turned freely, then I simply put the piston at TDC, then lifted the crank bearings out of the cylinder half, then laid the beads of RTV under where the bearings go. Set the crank in, bearings all lined up properly, and then laid the main bead of RTV around the case half. I did only one case half...
I have heard many people complain about how much RTV oozes out when the lay a bead on both halves... well, yeah, it's gonna ooze, you don't need that much RTV. I had a little bit of oozing, but it really was minimal. I honestly think very tiny amounts of it oozed into the crankcase. I put a really thin bead on, actually, it was more of a flat bead, with most of the RTV towards the outside of the case half.
Geez, I writing a book.
