044 rebuild inspection

[newguy18]

I tore into my 044 yesterday and I don't like what I'm finding...

Saw didn't feel very smooth when turning over. Found the starter pulley to be worn out and cracked. Still not smooth, cogging feeling as you turn it over. Though it might be piston or rings as there I saw some galling on the piston from the exhaust port. Popped the jug off and rings are intact and the piston has some galling but I think it's ok, I'll post a pic this evening. Still coggs when you turn it. So me thinks it's the crank bearings, waiting on flywheel puller to confirm.

While I had the jug off, the movement on the big end rod bearing doesn't seem right. What is the fit supposed to be like side to side? I have play and it doesn't feel normal but I have no reference to go by...

On a side note, does anyone have a digital service manual and/or IPL...this project just got much bigger than I thought it was going to be...

Just use a large screwdriver to pull the fly wheel.You have to lift it a little at a time.After you lift a little turn it about an quarter of a turn repeat until the flywheel is off.

 

[KMB]

If you have another rubber strip you can leave the carb on back off on the nuts and carefully slip it behind the carb and re-tighten against the rubber,, use the impulse hose ala goat and you are in business!!!! that ought to be worth some rep,,,Ehhhh?

Okay...let's see if I can understand what you're saying...

Either it's use the carb as the "plate" (with the rubber in place, of course), and attach the hose for vac/press to the impulse hose.

Or leave the carb in place, and put the rubber on the back of the carb to seal the intake, and attach the hose for vac/press to the impulse hose.

So...which is it?

And...yes you can have rep...you've been helpful...

Kevin

 

[RiverRat2]

The New Guy 18!!!!!

Just use a large screwdriver to pull the fly wheel.You have to lift it a little at a time.After you lift a little turn it about an quarter of a turn repeat until the flywheel is off.

Hey new guy,,, where ya been dude????? havent seen ya around in a while,,,,, I was just wondering about your post????

Why would we need to pull the flywheel???? Goat has established the crank seals are not leaking ,,,, it held Vac for 24 hrs!!!!! so whats up with that??? or did I miss something,,, I've been known to screw up before.... and How!!!

Oh yeah and get the right puller,,,,,,,,, no screw drivers,,,, you must have not been paying attention when your dad tought you how to pull a flywheel,,,,,,

 

[Lakeside53]

Just use a large screwdriver to pull the fly wheel.You have to lift it a little at a time.After you lift a little turn it about an quarter of a turn repeat until the flywheel is off.

Only a fool attempts to do it this way... And good luck on an 044 ...

 

[Lakeside53]

The answer is simple..you have a very early 044 as is shown by the shielded bearings and the o-ring in the oiler. Your carb base settings will be 1.5 on the low and approx 3/4 on the hi.

the 1 and 1 carb settings came in with emissions complience mid way in 044 production.

The old standard was usually 1.5 L and 3/4 high on most 2-strokes.

Set the low at 1.5 and the high a little past 3/4 and adjust your idle stop for no chain movement then check your acceleration you will probably be able to lean out the low a little from the full 1.5 but I suspect you are just way too lean on the low speed jet so you are lean bogging in transition between the low and high circuits of the carb.

All the 044's (more than I care to count, from old to new) I've ever worked on have STD settings of 1 turn out... both H and L, both Walbro and Zama.


If anything it needs to be a tad leaner than 1 turn out on L when hot. If you are at 1.5 on L, you're compensating for an incorrectly set metering arm or a slight air leak.

 

[RiverRat2]

Okay...let's see if I can understand what you're saying...

Here ya go,,, merely back off on the carb nuts a bit and slide the carb away from the manifold & use the carb as the "plate" (with the rubber in place, of course), retighten the carb nuts after slipping the intake side rubber strip between the crank case side of the carb body and the intake manifold tube,,,, and snug them up!!!!!! and attach the hose for vac/press to the impulse hose.
and your in business

Kevin

BINGO

 

[newguy18]

Only a fool attempts to do it this way... And good luck on an 044 ...

I will tell you now it has worked for me many many times.I have fixed everything from cars and trucks to any small engine made and all kinds of boats even fixed a shrimp boat.also fixed atvs mules and motorcycles.

 

[RiverRat2]

Shimp boats?????

I will tell you now it has worked for me many many times.I have fixed everything from cars and trucks to any small engine made and all kinds of boats even fixed a shrimp boat.also fixed atvs mules and motorcycles.

Hey you didn't work for Bubba Gump Shrimp co. Did ya????? :monkey: :monkey: :monkey:

 

[Lakeside53]

I will tell you now it has worked for me many many times.I have fixed everything from cars and trucks to any small engine made and all kinds of boats even fixed a shrimp boat.also fixed atvs mules and motorcycles.

As I said, "only a fool...". Stay with the shrimp.

 

[newguy18]

Hey you didn't work for Bubba Gump Shrimp co. Did ya????? :monkey: :monkey: :monkey:

No a friend of my uncles boat was down his carb broke and i had to go down and fix it.

 

[Goat]

I will tell you now it has worked for me many many times.I have fixed everything from cars and trucks to any small engine made and all kinds of boats even fixed a shrimp boat.also fixed atvs mules and motorcycles.

After all the fixed one would think you'd have figured out how a taper works. Large flat blade screwdriver, pry slowly...Man, I should smack you upside the head with a trout.

I don't need to pull the flywheel, it's been off and now it's back on.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Just use a large screwdriver to pull the fly wheel.You have to lift it a little at a time.After you lift a little turn it about an quarter of a turn repeat until the flywheel is off.

Only a fool attempts to do it this way... And good luck on an 044 ...

Hard to top that one................wish I said that!!!

 

[RiverRat2]

cool!!!!

No a friend of my uncles boat was down his carb broke and i had to go down and fix it.

Thats good you are helping your family +1

 

[Austin1]

As I said, "only a fool...". Stay with the shrimp.

Oh Oh here we go again!
I really enjoy reading lakes post as they point out the right way and wrong way to fix things I would rep you more often but out of bullets.
I say you can fix anything with a bit of bailing wire, duct tape and imagination! But that is only in emergency the word pry always scares me!!!
I really hate to say this it can be done in some situations. But most of the time it will end up costing you more time and money!

 

[RiverRat2]

There is a safe way to pull a flywheel without a puller!!!

Oh Oh here we go again!
I really enjoy reading lakes post as they point out the right way and wrong way to fix things I would rep you more often but out of bullets.
I say you can fix anything with a bit of bailing wire, duct tape and imagination! But that is only in emergency the word pry always scares me!!!
I really hate to say this it can be done in some situations. But most of the time it will end up costing you more time and money!

and it does not use a screwdriver to pry with but some times it wont pull one that's really stuck and you end up having to get a puller any way but in a pinch I have used it successfully

 

[KMB]

BINGO

I was a bit confused reading what I had described...then I realized you had altered my description...but I fully understand now...

From:

Okay...let's see if I can understand what you're saying...

Either it's use the carb as the "plate" (with the rubber in place, of course), and attach the hose for vac/press to the impulse hose.

To:

Okay...let's see if I can understand what you're saying...

Here ya go,,, merely back off on the carb nuts a bit and slide the carb away from the manifold & use the carb as the "plate" (with the rubber in place, of course), retighten the carb nuts after slipping the intake side rubber strip between the crank case side of the carb body and the intake manifold tube,,,, and snug them up!!!!!! and attach the hose for vac/press to the impulse hose.
and your in business

Kevin

 

[Lakeside53]

and it does not use a screwdriver to pry with but some times it wont pull one that's really stuck and you end up having to get a puller any way but in a pinch I have used it successfully

This must be another riddle :monkey:

 

[Lakeside53]

Oh Oh here we go again!
I really enjoy reading lakes post as they point out the right way and wrong way to fix things I would rep you more often but out of bullets.
I say you can fix anything with a bit of bailing wire, duct tape and imagination! But that is only in emergency the word pry always scares me!!!
I really hate to say this it can be done in some situations. But most of the time it will end up costing you more time and money!

Actually I LOVE pryers. I get to sell them new cases, flywheels, coils and now and then (when a hammer is involved), a new crank!

 

[RiverRat2]

This must be another riddle :monkey:

2 + 2,,,,,,, here's how it goes and is to be only used if you cannot wait on a puller,,,,,, It takes two tech's and two approximately 20 ounce ball peen hammers...... one pair of leather gloves and a couple pair of safety glasses

Step # 1 install piston stop and bring piston against stop device,,, lay a few shop towels and a piece of card board under the saw laying in the bar cover side,, break torque on flywheel nut as to remove said nut but only make a couple of rounds leaving approximately 2mm gap between the flywheel & nut...

have the second tech pick the saw up by the outsides of the flywheel just off of the padding/bench, appoximately1-2" first tech takes one hammer peen end resting solidly on the end of the crankshaft with the nut protecting the threads,,,, then sharply striking the rested hammer with the second hammer,,, not over whelmingly just a sharp quick tap/blow will usually leave the second tech holding the removed flywheel and the saw setting on the padding,,,, Ive only done a few this way and it has worked every time, granted,,, it is not as good as a puller,, but it works as far as I have seen,,,,

 

[Lakeside53]

Dents in the bearing races from the balls is not a good thing.. It will work on the FAT taper cranks like a 200T (similar to how you are supposed to do it, but with the right strike tool in the center), but on the rest it's just plain hard on the crank and bearings, and on some you've never get it off without breaking something, or worse, cracking the flywheel.