My first impressions of the 346xp

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NYH1 said:
Anyone run a 353 and a 346XP side by side. I've heard (from a few dealers and a few people on this site) that the 353 will cut a little faster in thicker wood (logs like 10 inches and larger) then the 346XP, and the 346XP cuts faster in thinner wood (limbs). Is this true? I'm looking for a small saw for cutting firewood from 6 to 12 inches in diameter. I've looked at a few different saws and keep coming back to the 353, it seemed like just the ticket. Thanks.
Not too far off I believe, but it will depend on the type of wood involved and your technique.
 
I jusr got in from running afew tanks from my ported 346 i just got back. With the carb set at 15,000 it pulls 12,800 in 14'' red oak. talk about a a screamer. This is with 3/8, 72 LG chain and a 16'' bar. Bar burried in sugar maple it pulls 12,000.
BTW In general the Husky's I have played with have more torque than their Stihl counter part. This applies to the 372 vs the 440 and the 346 vs. the 260. People mistake the high pitched exhaust note of a Husky for lack of torque. Fact is a Stihl can be reving just as high, but it doesnt sound like it because the exhaust not has a lower pitch.
 
LOL... You know it's funny how people tend to see things the way they want to :)

We have one side that claims that huskys have more torque and we have another side claiming Stihls have more torque. heheheh, now you guys see how a noob like myself can go mad trying to make a decision on a saw....:cheers:
 
manual said:
I like the saw,
Why are you digging a basement with a teaspoon ?


It's not like that manual, I do like the saw, it is intended to replace my 350 and will usually only see wood aound 16". I intentionly overloaded it, I have seen the vids and was curious. That saw is not meant for what I was cutting and I know that, my 046 would have chewed through that stuff like nothing. My point was I expected a little more of a powerband than all or nothing. I wanted something light and fast, which it is both of those, now I just need to refine my technique a LOT to use the saw properly. And though not a fair comparison, after running the 262, it was a bit of a dissapointment. I think as I play with it it will come into its own though. I think it's mostly me, not the saw. If you can't tell, I am not that good with tact and finnesse :ices_rofl:
Andy
 
sawinredneck said:
It's not like that manual, I do like the saw, it is intended to replace my 350 and will usually only see wood aound 16". I intentionly overloaded it, I have seen the vids and was curious. That saw is not meant for what I was cutting and I know that, my 046 would have chewed through that stuff like nothing. My point was I expected a little more of a powerband than all or nothing. I wanted something light and fast, which it is both of those, now I just need to refine my technique a LOT to use the saw properly. And though not a fair comparison, after running the 262, it was a bit of a dissapointment. I think as I play with it it will come into its own though. I think it's mostly me, not the saw. If you can't tell, I am not that good with tact and finnesse :ices_rofl:
Andy

thank you for not being a fan-boy and being honest!! :rock:
 
deeeez said:
thank you for not being a fan-boy and being honest!! :rock:


You are welcome, I find it interesting that I bash the 50cc Stihls, but am still labeled as a Stihl man, I run what ever is best in it's class (that I can afford at the time) Hve to add that for the Dolmar boys:ices_rofl: If I would have know what happened was going to happen a bit sooner, I would be reviewing a 5100 right now, AHHHHH.......... ain't hindsight wonderful?
Andy
 
deeeez said:
thank you for not being a fan-boy and being honest!! :rock:


You are welcome, I find it interesting that I bash the 50cc Stihls, but am still labeled as a Stihl man, I run what ever is best in it's class (that I can afford at the time) Have to add that for the Dolmar boys:ices_rofl: If I would have know what happened was going to happen a bit sooner, I would be reviewing a 5100 right now, AHHHHH.......... ain't hindsight wonderful?
Andy
 
So we have a guy that was "less than impressed" with the 346!!!

No biggy really!!!

I have 2 ported 346's and the only stock 346 that I ever ran the guy had a solid nose bar on it..............not really a good example!!!


The nice thing is that the 346 takes well to porting. The ported 346 that Ben has is stronger than the ported 346's that I have!!!


Everyone has an opinion..................sometimes they just aren't shared!!!
 
The problem with quote post-porting like and dislikes is that only 1/1000th of a percent does it! Ratios are slightly higher on AS, but... my point is that for most people, stock performance is all that matters.
 
I've noticed some of the same characteristics of a stock 346xp, but have adjusted to it and commonly run a 20" bar in addition to the 16". The 16" is really the best fit IMO, but if I want to cut down on reaching or have a few bigger than optimal cuts, I'll run the 20"with 95VP .325. Can't imagine it pulling 3/8 LG as some have mentioned, so the woods mod must really make an impact on performance.

I've been able to bury the 20" in oak and pine and as long as I keep the pressure off, it does pretty good. I just modified the muffler and will take it out for the first time Thanksgiving morning for our annual firewood gathering.

I really love the saw, but you certainly can't lean on it. I think it's great for limbing and cuts up to 14". After that you're better reaching for the larger saw. If you don't have a larger saw handy, practice patience and be prepared to back out every once in a while.

It's really loud with the muffler mod!
 
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in the next few days i will be posting before and after videos of a beautiful 346XP. woods porting makes a substantial difference. cutting is faster, reliability is the same or better than stock. performance is impressive enough to me that i actually want a 346 for my own use!


all these items will be the same before and after.
Carlton K1L .325 round filed Chisel (straight out of the box, untouched)
GB Pro-Top 16" Bar
Alder Log.
 
engineeringnerd said:
I've noticed some of the same characteristics of a stock 346xp, but have adjusted to it and commonly run a 20" bar in addition to the 16". The 16" is really the best fit IMO, but if I want to cut down or reaching or have a few bigger than optimal cuts, I'll run the 20"with 95VP .325. Can't imagine it pulling 3/8 LG as some have mentioned, so the woods mod must really make an impact on performance.

I've been able to bury the 20" in oak and pine and as long as I keep the pressure off, it does pretty good. I just modified the muffler and will take it out for the first time Thanksgiving morning for our annual firewood gathering.

I really love the saw, but you certainly can't lean on it. I think it's great for limbing and cuts up to 14". After that you're better reaching for the larger saw. If you don't have a larger saw handy, practice patience and be prepared to back out every once in a while.

It's really loud with the muffler mod!


Thank you!!! You just nailed what I was trying to say, it will cut, it is jst a diferent way of cutting, it's a state of mind you must aquire. It is a stupid fast cutting saw, I just have to learn how to use it porperly!!

I am looking forward to seeing the vids Ben, as well as watching how you run it!! Anything you did to that saw you are willing to share, I am willing to liten to!!!
Andy
 
heck its not even modified yet, just arrived today. it will be a standard woods port as outlined on my website. videos will be 3 cut hot start. log will likely be around 16" unless i take down a larger tree in the next few days.
 
my point is that for most people, stock performance is all that matters.
Thats true and stock with a muffler mod the 346 will beat most all saws in its class save the 5100. When mine was stock and muffler modded it pulled 3/8 chain just fine. I suspect that many people dont pay attention to proper carb tuning and chain maintenance hence the problem getting perfromance out of a 50cc saw. Any 50 cc pro isnt very tollerant of a half done chain or poor carb tuning.
 
I am looking forward to seeing the vids Ben, as well as watching how you run it!! Anything you did to that saw you are willing to share, I am willing to liten to!!!
Andy
The only thing I did to the saw after getting it back form the dealer was to set the carb to 15,000 rpm, slap the loop of 72lg that was on it beofre I sent it out and then starting makin chips. After it wa sported it actually had more stump power than before.
I would also submit that the proper way to run a saw doesnt entail using the dogs as a lever to force the chain through the wood. If your going to do that you might as well stick with a Stihl 290 or the ilk and mount up a saddle on it.:laugh: Besides, operating a saw like that is hard on the saw, the bar and more importantly hard on the operator.
 
bwalker said:
Thats true and stock with a muffler mod the 346 will beat most all saws in its class save the 5100. When mine was stock and muffler modded it pulled 3/8 chain just fine. I suspect that many people dont pay attention to proper carb tuning and chain maintenance hence the problem getting perfromance out of a 50cc saw. Any 50 cc pro isnt very tollerant of a half done chain or poor carb tuning.


I am intriuged now Ben, will the muffler mod make that much of a difference on a pre-EPA 346? I understood these where close to perfect out of the box? I have not tweaked with the carb, had the saw two weeks and just now found time to run it. Going to the woods sometime this weekend, so I will adjust everything out before I head and see where it falls there as well.
I am really just trying to figure out if it's me, if it's the saw or what is going on! The chain wasn't the best, it was one that came with the saw and I had to grind it at 32deg instead of the 30 I reffer to get it to clean up right without grinding the piss out of it. It was very grabby to start with, but as it dulled it was pulling very nice chips! I ran it thorugh some hedge and hackberry before hand, 10" wood, and it acted the same, cut like a mother, until you pushed it just that much more, no bog nothing, just stops the chain!!!

If I am doing something wrong please do tell, I am sure it's the first time I have been corected on this site before:jester: And have no doubt as highly touted as this saw is, that I very well may be doing something wrong!
Andy
 
sawinredneck said:
I am intriuged now Ben, will the muffler mod make that much of a difference on a pre-EPA 346? I understood these where close to perfect out of the box? I have not tweaked with the carb, had the saw two weeks and just now found time to run it. Going to the woods sometime this weekend, so I will adjust everything out before I head and see where it falls there as well.
I am really just trying to figure out if it's me, if it's the saw or what is going on! The chain wasn't the best, it was one that came with the saw and I had to grind it at 32deg instead of the 30 I reffer to get it to clean up right without grinding the piss out of it. It was very grabby to start with, but as it dulled it was pulling very nice chips! I ran it thorugh some hedge and hackberry before hand, 10" wood, and it acted the same, cut like a mother, until you pushed it just that much more, no bog nothing, just stops the chain!!!

If I am doing something wrong please do tell, I am sure it's the first time I have been corected on this site before:jester: And have no doubt as highly touted as this saw is, that I very well may be doing something wrong!
Andy



Oh forget it.....

You just need a Ms290 with a saddle...
 
NWCS said:
... reliability is the same or better than stock. performance is impressive enough to me that i actually want a 346 for my own use!

.


I'm nit-picking, but reliability is something that is demonstrated over time... in high hundreds to low thousands of hours, not proposed "up-front". Upping performance does not necessarily translate into a more reliable saw if that extra power is used a lot. Irrespective of the additional component stresses, more power is more heat, and modding the muffler only looses some of that additional heat.
 

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