Which Klotz?

[Eccentric]

Anyone ever try redline racing oil? It burns really clean

I've been using Redline 2-Stroke Racing Oil for at least 25 years. Ran it in my 2-stroke dirt bikes and quads. I run it my saws now. It offers great protection, is compatible with ethenol gas, burns clean, and leaves a film in the engine that seems to protect stuff well. I've pulled apart engines that I hadn't ran for 3 years or more, and there was still a thin film of oil on everything. I like it, and it's cheaper for me locally (at bike shops) than the Stihl and Husky synthetics.

 

[Fish]

The **** at the dealer works fine too.......

The failures that 99.9% of you guys will see, your oil mix will have absolutely nothing to do with. But, rather listening to the morons here that will
coach you through trying to carb adjust out a running problem, instead of fixing the saw, that is where your piston/engine failures will come from........

 

[blsnelling]

The failures that 99.9% of you guys will see, your oil mix will have absolutely nothing to do with. But, rather listening to the morons here that will
coach you through trying to carb adjust out a running problem, instead of fixing the saw, that is where your piston/engine failures will come from........

Excuse us?

 

[Fish]

Excuse us?

LOL, sure....

 

[Fish]

Instead of just recieving notifications, and building a list of our "Likes"....

Can't we get one for our accumulated "hates" as well??????

I would put that one up like a Cub Scout Merit Badge!!!!!!!

 

[mdavlee]

Sam right now i'm running belray. Used a gallon in the past 2 days. I've got 2 gallons mixed up that's left. Would have used more but it was little trees and the 555 seems to run forever on a tank. I think the 3120 uses as much per cut as it did per tree. I think the belray costs the same as stihl ultra per gallon.

 

[komatsuvarna]

Sam right now i'm running belray. Used a gallon in the past 2 days. I've got 2 gallons mixed up that's left. Would have used more but it was little trees and the 555 seems to run forever on a tank. I think the 3120 uses as much per cut as it did per tree. I think the belray costs the same as stihl ultra per gallon.

Its quite a bit cheeper for me. I guess it depends on what ya gotta pay for Ultra. I havent bought any in awhile, but I was thinking a 6 pack of 1 gallon mix bottles was almost $20 bucks the last I bought....if Im not wrong. I put the calculator to it once before, but I can't remember the numbers off hand. Buy the H1R by the 4 liter bottle.

 

[Rounder]

Sam right now i'm running belray. Used a gallon in the past 2 days. I've got 2 gallons mixed up that's left. Would have used more but it was little trees and the 555 seems to run forever on a tank. I think the 3120 uses as much per cut as it did per tree. I think the belray costs the same as stihl ultra per gallon.

Didn't know they even made mix. I'm sure it's good. Their foam filter oil is the best I've found by a long shot.

 

[Mastermind]

Instead of just recieving notifications, and building a list of our "Likes"....

Can't we get one for our accumulated "hates" as well??????

I would put that one up like a Cub Scout Merit Badge!!!!!!!

I bet flowers come outta yer ass when you fart Fisher. :hmm3grin2orange:

You're such a ray of sunshine and everthang.........

 

[Fish]

I bet flowers come outta yer ass when you fart Fisher. :hmm3grin2orange:

You're such a ray of sunshine and everthang.........

sniff.......

 

[Mastermind]

sniff.......

lmfao.........

 

[komatsuvarna]

I dunno, smells like #### to me!











































:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[mdavlee]

Rocky mountain atv had it at a real good price with free shipping a while back. I'm going to check at the suzuki shop tomorrow when I go to the big city. I hope the husky dealer has a fuel line and a tank vent for the 2100.

This was a good oil thread. There wasn't any real arguing or much stuff like a lot of them.

 

[blsnelling]

Where's the BITOG gurus when you need them. What makes one oil better for storage than another? Which of the three I listed would be best in those reguards.

 

[Stihlman441]

I have found Belray H1R here in Ozz but at $37.95 per ltr i think i will stick with Mobil T2 untill i run out.:smile2:

 

[oneoldbanjo]

I agree with the comment that most of us will never have an oil related failure......most failures will come from running a saw with bad gas or an air leak or some other related failure.

I also enjoy hunting for the best fuel and oil.....it helps keep me from getting some habit that might be more expensive or addicting!

Following are some oils I tried and my own experience:

Mobile 2T - It ran fine, seemed to run clean, and I had no problems with it in my saws. In my motorcycles it seemed to make a lot of smoke and unburned oil in the exhaust - but I did not notice that problem in my saws.

Amsoil Saber - I started using this oil as I had a trials motorcycle that kept leaking unburned oil out the exhaust. I was running Mobile 2T at 80:1 in the motorcycle and switched to the Amsoil Saber at 100:1....and it ran fine in the trials motorcycle. I used some of the 100:1 mix in my weedwacker and leaf blower for about 2 years and they ran just fine - but I mixed at 50:1 for my saws. I did not have any trouble in the equipment I used it at 100:1 or 50:1. I do believe that this oil is much thicker than most 2 cycle pre-mix oils - and that may be why it can be mixed at 100:1 as there appears to be less solvents in the oil to disperse the lubricating part of the oil.

Amsoil Dominator - I used this mixed at 50:1 in my chainsaws and it ran fine and seemed to run clean. I stopped using it as there is a noticeable smoke coming from the exhaust when you would close the throttle - but it does not seem to smoke any more under load or when idling.

Maxima K2 - This is the oil I am currently using. I read about Esther based synthetics having an "affinity" for adhering to metal surfaces and that sounded like a good trait for an oil to have. The national importer for Sherco trials motorcycles uses this oil exclusively and it is the only 2 cycle oil they sell - they have very good luck with it and have tried lots of other oils. It seems to work very well in my saws and other equipment and when I have pulled a muffler or spark plug to look inside it appears to be burning very cleanly. I can't buy it locally and just order some online when I am getting other parts ordered.

I am sure that if you run any good synthetic oil with a good grade of gasoline and keep it fresh - and keep your saw in proper tune you will not have any problems. In my experience the people that burn up saws saws are the ones that either don't notice that their saw is not running properly and keep running a saw that is running too lean - or they keep running the saw and hope that whatever is making it run poorly will "heal itself". If your saw is not running right - it is time to stop and see what is wrong!

 

[wilsonishere]

I was asked to reply to this thread and specifically about Motul 800 2t, Maxima K2, and Bel-Ray H1R, so here are my two cents. These are great oils in the lubricating and varnish removal departments, the problem falls to the ester base that is used for our chain saw applications. The ester is a group V oil witch is normally used only for additives. The reasons that ester is not a common base stock are the tendency of ester to (attack rubber seals and cause swelling and deterioration), not a huge problem in motorcycle applications. But when you get into using it in a chain saw that has a rubber diaphragm, for a fuel pump, rubber flapper valves for carburetion control, and on a lot of models a rubber intake tube it becomes a problem. Another disadvantage is that ester reacts with water and can hydrolyze with heat. Not a problem for some saws as the gas tank is separate from the engine but I would not run out and use any ester product with say an old Echo that has the gas tank made into the casting. Now if you do not mind the extra maintenance this may cause (I have not tried them my self) then try them out, as ester is a great lubricant because of its tendency to cling to positive charged metal. Now in a PAO based oil group IV, ester additives can be a great thing because certain PAO’s shrink seals so the ester can counter act that shrinkage, but the two have to be balanced. Hope this helps someones choise in oil.

 

[Andyshine77]

Good post Banjo.

I'm sure you know this, but most of the time oil coming out the exhaust is a product of improper jetting, but not always. Silkolene PRO 2 SX is a good example of this. The dispersants used in the oil causes excess spooge in the exhaust. Yes spooge is a technical term.:biggrin: I ran Pro 2 for almost a year and experienced this first hand, I did like the oil overall however..

I know many have ran Amsoil at 100:1 without issues, but what I saw in an engine that was ran on this mix, was not good to say the least. With that said it must be pretty good oil with a hefty add pack, lots of plasticizers to keep the engine from seizing.

I'm also running K2, so far it's the best oil other than Mobil-1 2T I've ran to date.

 

[Andyshine77]

I was asked to reply to this thread and specifically about Motul 800 2t, Maxima K2, and Bel-Ray H1R, so here are my two cents. These are great oils in the lubricating and varnish removal departments, the problem falls to the ester base that is used for our chain saw applications. The ester is a group V oil witch is normally used only for additives. The reasons that ester is not a common base stock are the tendency of ester to (attack rubber seals and cause swelling and deterioration), not a huge problem in motorcycle applications. But when you get into using it in a chain saw that has a rubber diaphragm, for a fuel pump, rubber flapper valves for carburetion control, and on a lot of models a rubber intake tube it becomes a problem. Another disadvantage is that ester reacts with water and can hydrolyze with heat. Not a problem for some saws as the gas tank is separate from the engine but I would not run out and use any ester product with say an old Echo that has the gas tank made into the casting. Now if you do not mind the extra maintenance this may cause (I have not tried them my self) then try them out, as ester is a great lubricant because of its tendency to cling to positive charged metal. Now in a PAO based oil group IV, ester additives can be a great thing because certain PAO’s shrink seals so the ester can counter act that shrinkage, but the two have to be balanced. Hope this helps someones choise in oil.

You are a 100% correct. However we are dealing with modern oils with modern additives like seal conditioners, antioxidants, Plasticizers and a slew of other additives, and in some cases even PAO oils. Ester based is just that, it's a base oil. Most high end 2 cycle oils including Stihl's ultra have an ester backbone.

The problem is the early ester oils were awful, they were highly hygroscopic, they would eat seals and fuel lines like there was no tomorrow, and most went back to castor oil at the time. Things are quite different today, esters based oils no longer have any of these side effects.

 

[redoakneck]

I use stihl ultra and just mixed up some amsoil saber at 44.4:1 with no e gas. Not good to use both types of mix???