Chainsaw nuts are Luddites evidently. The electronics on chainsaws thus far are extremely simple. I would bet newer saws are just as durable or more so than the older ones.
Saw life?
- Thread starter jackrabbit
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LuDookie
ArboristSite Guru
A lot of solid state electronics are bulletproof, such as ignition coils, but as an electronic tech I see a high degree of solenoid and “feedback loop” failures. I’m not a saw tech but I can understand why ignition coils seem to be reliable (also easily swappable), while autotune modules/solenoid valves(am I right?) might be questionable on a saw. A good question is, who’s got a 10 year old (or older) autotune/m tronic saw that’s been cutting firewood every year? In an attempt to be accepting of the electronics, I’m always on the lookout for these types of testimonies and I don’t see many. Meanwhile every 20+ year old saw we own is still alive or has been brought back to life with very inexpensive carb work at home.
I’ve also got a 40 year mid grade saw that I’ve always kept tuned rich that still cuts great so I’m a believer in being able to tune rich(or at least tune).
I do not worry so much about the failure rate of the electronic components what I do detest is the parts are all different you can not take them apart to fix them and they are obsolete not long after you buy the equipment.
I can fix almost any points ignition and carb that have been made it will be centurys before the parts dry up.
Why do you think they put all that expoxy over the electronic component maybe it is to make it look nice and neat. HA HA
Kash
I can fix almost any points ignition and carb that have been made it will be centurys before the parts dry up.
Why do you think they put all that expoxy over the electronic component maybe it is to make it look nice and neat. HA HA
Kash
What do you consider a proper warm up?
Thanks!
Gabriel1982
Addicted to ArboristSite
I believe 3-5 minutes of idle with some light throtle. That's what I do before cutting hard,or at least in the limits of the chainsaw,don't push in the blade in the wood! I let it dig in at medium revs. I got too good at sharpening the .325 Oregon full chisel chain and it goes in the 50cm diameter logs like they are rotten/soft! Only one type of wood was harder to cut , hornbeam of about 60cm diameter! It was felt in the way the chainsaw cut.Never did cut that kind of wood and that big in diameter,plus it was all solid no rotten part not even in the center! Strange wood type indeed!
Anyway, I'm impressed with the Makita EA6100P and the .325 Oregon chain! Won't change anything in this chainsaw!
P.s. other type of wood logs I had were beech ,very nice logs with no rotten core!
Letting a saw idle for 3-5 minutes is insane. Air cooled motors come up to temp pretty fast. That and unlike a liquid cooled motor the cylinder isn't at a vastly different temperature during the first few minutes of use.
I will start a saw blip the throttle for 10 seconds or so and then have at it.
My father was a pulpwood production faller. East coast style with forwarders. Cut/limb/block/pile.
A saw was a tool. If it made a full season(April-Nov usually) it got to hang around the next season as the spare saw. If a saw gave him any major trouble it was switch to the spare and trade the dead one in on Saturday. He had a couple bad experiences with having top ends/bearings/seals done, so he just stuck to replacing.
He typically worked 10 hour days, saw ran all day long except for fuel, maybe a quick filing, and enough time to have coffee and sandwich.
Due to the heavy limbing use, tuning was to full scream...
A saw was a tool. If it made a full season(April-Nov usually) it got to hang around the next season as the spare saw. If a saw gave him any major trouble it was switch to the spare and trade the dead one in on Saturday. He had a couple bad experiences with having top ends/bearings/seals done, so he just stuck to replacing.
He typically worked 10 hour days, saw ran all day long except for fuel, maybe a quick filing, and enough time to have coffee and sandwich.
Due to the heavy limbing use, tuning was to full scream...
camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
I started buying older saws bc I got sick of not being able to tune saws and all the emissions stuff they started adding I like something simple and reliable same reason I buy the vehicles I do. I don’t need my chainsaw or lawnmower having an obd2 port 
Alot of the pulp wood cutters around here used McCulloch and a bow bar.
jackrabbit
ArboristSite Member
What was the idea of the bow bar? I've seen them on youtube, but never in real life.
Makes it easy to buck a log lying on the ground into sections, while standing, without digging into the dirt.
Its also impossible to pinch a bar with a big hole in it.
Yep. that too!
Gabriel1982
Addicted to ArboristSite
Will have to read the manual better
maybe it sits that long because I'm slow and lazy,plus I like to hear it run 
this makita is more of a hobby,I'm not a proffesional lumber guy! Was thinking about it but... I always put it on "later things"...
Gabriel1982
Addicted to ArboristSite
Really, what chainsaw gas powered has obd2 port?! It sounds ridicoulous...I started buying older saws bc I got sick of not being able to tune saws and all the emissions stuff they started adding I like something simple and reliable same reason I buy the vehicles I do. I don’t need my chainsaw or lawnmower having an obd2 port
camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
Sounds like it’s coming. I’m just saying something like a chainsaw should be simple.
Any of the Autotune/mtronic saws can be read by a proprietary reader. Having a standardized OBD2 part would be an improvement.
Agreed
But what do you think the chances are of Stihl in particular making it easier for owners to service their own saws?
You can buy the Stihl diagnostic tool.
Saws are really simple anyways. The way some guys male it sound its like a saw with a small amount of electronics is like working on the space shuttle.
To a person with no mech skills that never worked on one it may seem that way to them.
